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I have 42,xxx miles on my 2001. 5 2500 And Am getting ready to change the gear oil this weekend is it ok to go with synthetic oil or should i use the regular stuff.



I dont want to start a huge debate over Synthetic/regular



Thanks
 
Ok. .

Before the wars begin I'll start like this...

Its your truck and wallet,you first need to decide what fits your budget and go from there. A good quality synthetic will go along way to keeping the life in the rear. There are cases where guys have run a dino based gear lube for a long time with great success. There also cases where I have seen synthetic save or prevent a big problem.



In my truck I run only synthetic and won't run a dino based lube. I look at it this way,I have seen the results of problems when they arrive in high HP applications with dino-lube and will do all I can to make sure the truck lasts as long as I need it to. Just remember if your limited-slip equipped to install the factory friction modifier in the back rear and do the mandated figure-8's afterward.



If you have any other questions feel free to PM me. There I got thru it all without any manufacturer's name being mentioned... ... phew... ... ..... Andy
 
Differential oil

In the 01 service manual it states for front it comes with 75w-140 synthetic gear oil and rear states SAE 80w-90 gear oil or for heavy duty or towing 75w-140 synthetic gear oil and if trac lok or vari lok rear end requires friction modifier.



:D

Dave
 
No problem! I am running royal purple and i haven't had any problems with it. It really just depends on how much you want to spend, synthetic=$$$ non-synthetic=$. But if i were you i would go with the synthetic, its just better they claim less friction and more hp and longer gear life= i am sold on synthetic. :D
 
I compromised, I went with Valvoline 75-140 Durablend. Its supposed to be a mix.

Whatever you use, heed the Owners manual fill level instructions.
 
I have syn 75W-90 both ends. Manual says 90w-140 syn for towing but it comes with dino 90W in both ends OEM. I did a little survey and found that 49 out of 50 random trucks I asked about had the OEM oil, most had never been checked or changed, these were trucks towing things :eek: too. Point to this: There is none, if you love your truck and want the best for it, go syn, but if you put dino's in the diff's, you have a lot of company.
 
How much is the difference in price? Not much, you're not changing gear oil every 3000 or 5000 miles, go synthetic and you'll be better off.



I used RP and no need for modifier, there's other choices and they're all good.





Hammer, you're starting oil wars?:rolleyes:
 
We tow heavy (21,180 lbs GCW versus 21,500 GCWR) frequently, so I changed the factory fill out to 85W-140 Royal Purple synthetic. If you run empty all the time, dino lube would probably be fine, although a 75W-90 synthetic would be better.



That opens another bag of worms. We ordered our truck equipped with every option to maximize towing capabilities. Why should I have to order a Towing Package and then turn around and change out the rear axle lube? Why, if someone orders a truck for towing, doesn't Dodge fill the rear axle with synthetic to begin with? :mad:



JM2CW :rolleyes:



Rusty
 
I use Chevron Delo Gear Lubricant ESI SAE 80W-90 which is approved for Dana 500,000 mile initial and service fill. It's also the first nonsynthetic gear oil approved for the extended warranty program of Dana Spicer heavy duty axles.

Hard to beat that.

What's even harder to beat is the price - I pay $28 for a 5 gallon tub. Easy to come by too, my local Napa sells it. Also availible in 75w-140.

Non-synthetic lubes keep getting better and better without the high price of the full synthetics.

More info here

http://library.cbest.chevron.com/lubes/compprd9.nsf/0/fbf9ee13d6fb12c788256628007d0d4d?OpenDocument
 
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