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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) changing fluid in rear/front axle,& transfer case?

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My recently acquired truck is rapidly approaching the 70K mile mark, and I was reading in the manual about the necessary maintenance procedures. Since I am a farmer, and I imagine sometime this summer I will cross the 72K mile mark, I want to perform some of the maintenance now while Im not too busy. I want to change the fluids in the front and rear axle, and also the transfer case. My truck has the Dana M60/248MM front axle and the Dana M80 Rear axle. Do I use any type of special 80w-90 for the rear? My book says use SAE90 for the front axle, is this correct? Any idea how much each one takes? Is there any "additives" I'm supposed to be adding to either?(seems like I remember reading somewhere on here about certain additives?) Now, with the transfer case, which fluid and how much? Dexron III Automatic transmission fluid or something else? Also, guess I was wondering if any manufacturers product will work, or do we have to use some "Dodge" stuff? :)

thanks,

coadman



one other thing, what about
 
Coadman,

In the front axel (Dana 60) any good lubricant will work. My manual (95) recommends 90-140. Since it is not used much in normal applications, is not critical.

The transfer case uses Dexron 2 trasmission fluid. Again not critical.

The rear axel came with a standard grade 90-140, but Dodge recommends using a synthetic for heavy duty applications (trailer tow etc. ). They say 90-140 even for the synthetics. Since the rear axel gets the brunt of the labor, it is probably a good idea to treat it well. I had trouble finding a 90-140 synthetic so I ended up with an expensive Dodge item. I found lots of synthetics in the 85-90W range, but not much in the heaver weight ratings. I think they are avaialble if you look hard enough.

Rog
 
you can go with mobil 1 75w140 on the rear end with the slip additive if needed. you can use mobil 1 transmission fluid in transfer case. i believe if you drain the case it should take about 3 quarts to fill. i know the rear in my truck (96) took about 3 quarts of mobil 1 75w140 with 7oz of limited slip additive.
 
Dodge uses (or atleast the dealership that worked on mine) Syn. 75-140 upfront. About $20 a quart thru them. Front diff. takes 4-5 quarts on a fluid change not sure on the rear tho (probably 5 or so). I'm slowly switching everything over to Amsoil (except the transmission).



Where around Wichita are you from? I useto live in Wellington a few years back.



Nathan
 
ndurbin said:
Dodge uses (or atleast the dealership that worked on mine) Syn. 75-140 upfront. About $20 a quart thru them. Front diff. takes 4-5 quarts on a fluid change not sure on the rear tho (probably 5 or so). I'm slowly switching everything over to Amsoil (except the transmission).



Where around Wichita are you from? I useto live in Wellington a few years back.



Nathan

I'm closer to you than Wichita, I live east of Anthony near a little town called "Freeport"

Jim
 
Cool, glad somebody's alil closer now. Most everyone else from KS on here is from around KC. If you ever need any help, feel free to hollar at me, chances are if it's broke on these trucks I've fixed it (or had it fixed by someone).



Nathan
 
I just did all of this last weekend. I work in the parts business so I have accounts all over so buying Mopar fluids isn't to bad on the wallet. I used the Mopar ATF7176 in the transfer case. For the front diff (I have a Dana 60 4x4) I used the Mopar 80W90. Took about 3. 2 quarts and then used a bead of the Mopar ATF-RTV around the housing after cleaning everything down good. For the rear I have a Dana 70 w/ LSD. I took it apart, cleaned it, another bead of the RTV and put in 6oz (for my app, the Dana 80 calls for 10oz if you have an LSD) of the Mopar friction modifier and then about 3. 6 quarts of quarts of the Mopar 80W90. Pretty easy basic stuff. Then I went out and drove 10 figure 8's in the grass. I did all of this along with an oil change, fuel filter and WIF sensor change, ATF fluid and filter change and band adjustment. Also installed a B&M drain plug. This was for my 174,000 mile (12,000 mile Schedule B) service. Went pretty smoothly.
 
ndurbin said:
Cool, glad somebody's alil closer now. Most everyone else from KS on here is from around KC. If you ever need any help, feel free to hollar at me, chances are if it's broke on these trucks I've fixed it (or had it fixed by someone).



Nathan



I went to Medicene today for a cow sale. Bought too many for my 7'x20' trailer, so I borrowed Jay Gates' Dodge from Anthony Sale barn with his 36' trailer. He cut the exhaust and cat off, and is running just a straight pipe, flared end, to where the bed starts. Really sounds good, just like my semi tractor, and had plenty of power. His is a 24 valve, and I dont know if he did anything to the motor or not, but it really runs well with the trailer loaded with 15,000#'s of BEEF! I'm guessing his is a '98 or '99, only has 151,000 miles.

Jim
 
Yeah straight pipes are pretty :cool: sounding. My muffler came up missing about a year ago :-laf . You should pop out the silencer ring on the turbo so you can listen to her sing. The only drawback to either one of those is I get a bit of a drone when towing from the exhaust and with my AFE the turbo gets really loud when I push the boost over 20-25 lbs (esp. for the passenger).



Nathan
 
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