2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Changing Front Brake Pads

[Black Cloud]

I have a 2000 4x4, at first I wasn't going to try to change the front pads myself but since I do it on everything else I might as well. So being lazy, do the calipers compress with just a c-clamp or are they anything special like my wifes Taurus which has screw in type caliper pistons? Is it just a straight forward job with no special tools or such? Thanks for any tips or pointers.



James

 

[John - K5AWO]

I used a pair of welders Vise grips last week on mine. C clamps will do the job.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Originally posted by turbodiesel_ram

I have a 2000 4x4, at first I wasn't going to try to change the front pads myself but since I do it on everything else I might as well. So being lazy, do the calipers compress with just a c-clamp or are they anything special like my wifes Taurus which has screw in type caliper pistons? Is it just a straight forward job with no special tools or such? Thanks for any tips or pointers.



James

I compress the piston before removing the caliper, use a large screwdriver between the pads and the rotor, only special tool would be a male "torx" for the retaining bolts. bg

 

[Black Cloud]

And does the wheel cover come off as one piece. Do you have to pry it off? Thanks guys.

 

[damon]

If you are asking about the cover over the lug nuts, it just pry's off with a large screwdriver. I used 2 vise-grips wood clamps to compress the pistons, but the c-clamps would work the same.



Very easy job, the hardest part was getting the caliper off since the pistons catch up on the back of the pads - but like BG said, just use a screwdriver between the piston and pad to get a little clearance.

 

[JGheen]

There is no brake bleeding required being that you only removed the caliper and not the lines right? Just pull the caliper off replace the pads and put it all back together and go..... ? No adjustments of any sort?

Also, can I just take some sand paper or scotch brite to rough up the rotor a bit for the new pads to bite on to?

 

[radixr]

No bleeding required. I would check your master cylinder to make sure there is enough room in it for the fluid you will be displacing to go without overflowing. If no fluid has been added since the truck was new, that shouldn't happen -- I would check it anywho.



I don't think scuffing up the rotors is necessary. If there are "large" grooves worn in the pads, I would grind off the corresponding ridge on the rotor.



No adjustments needed. The pedal will go to the floor on the first pump since the pads will not be right next to the rotor. The caliper slide pins should be cleaned and lubed with a silicon grease.

 

[AKAMAC]

Pry the caliper cylinder about an 1/8 of an inch from the inner pad. Then use a larger screw driver/ pry bar between the rotor and inner pad. Install new pads and move to the other side. If you do one side at a time you won't have to worry about c-clamps or vise grips. When you are finished slowly press the brake peddle with your hand only pumping it about half-way down until the peddle is firm with out the engine running. If you do both at once you can hold the disassembled caliper back with the vice-grips or c-clamp while you pry the other back. Do not remove the master cylinder cover while you compress the calipers, this would leave brake fluid all over you engine compartment. Have fun, Mike

 

[Black Cloud]

Re: Re: Changing Front Brake Pads

Originally posted by B. G. Smith

I compress the piston before removing the caliper, use a large screwdriver between the pads and the rotor, only special tool would be a male "torx" for the retaining bolts. bg

Does anyone know what size torx head to use. I'd like to know before I start and not have it around the house.



James

 

[willyslover]

open the bleed screw when you push back the piston put a 1/4" plastic line on bleed screw to catch the fluid in a clear plastic water bottle or something... two reasons

You do not want to force the brake fluid in reverse direction on ABS sensors

and you have old contaminated fluid heading back up stream [look at the difference in what comes out v/s what's in the clear plastic res. ]

then refil the res. as needed. .

trox is a 45 if memory serves me right

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by willyslover

open the bleed screw when you push back the piston put a 1/4" plastic line on bleed screw to catch the fluid in a clear plastic water bottle or something... two reasons

You do not want to force the brake fluid in reverse direction on ABS sensors

and you have old contaminated fluid heading back up stream [look at the difference in what comes out v/s what's in the clear plastic res. ]

then refil the res. as needed. .

How come nobody else mentioned this? So your saying just open the bleed screw, put the hose on it and stick the screwdriver in there and then compress the piston? What about when it decompresses? Won't it suck air back into the system and cause you to bleed it anyway?

Bleed or not to bleed, that is the question.

 

[willyslover]

I would not use a screw driver . . chance of dinging up the piston to high. . c-clamp on the face of the old pad [so you don't mar up the rubber seal or piston . . best tool IMHO



can't answer why others didn't say this. . maybe are less aware ??



and if your fluid is a couple years it's time to bleed out and refresh it as it accumulates moisture over time. . but usually it will not pull much air back in if your on top of closing the bleed screw before releasing the clamp on the piston. . another way is to put fresh fluid in the bottom of the clean dry container and make sure the hose is in under it so it can't suck air.

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by willyslover

I would not use a screw driver . . chance of dinging up the piston to high. . c-clamp on the face of the old pad [so you don't mar up the rubber seal or piston . . best tool IMHO



can't answer why others didn't say this. . maybe are less aware ??

Just looked in my Dodge service manual and it said nothing about breaking the bleed loose as well as not using a screwdriver or prybar to compress the pad a bit to get the caliper off. How would you damage the piston or boot if you are jamming the screwdriver in between the pad and the rotor?

Not calling you a liar or anything, I just have done other Dana 60s before of old Chevy trucks and the directions for the Dodges don't seem much different. You make it sound way more involved than it really is for just installing new pads.

 

[YEEHAW]

willyslover's got it figured out. I'm not to sure about whether or not fluid going backwards on ABS sensors matters to much, but cracking the bleeders makes compressing the pistons MUCH easier and faster.

 

[willyslover]

JGheen. . well assuming you know where to pry then ok you can do it several ways... however not all who read these posts are "gifted" mechanics so I reply accrodingly, as I don't know you from Adam ... and my reply was assuming the caliper was off the rotor. . IMHO a much easier way to accomplish the job with the c-clamp

if it sounds hard do to my posting skills I'm sorry, cause it's not at all hard.

 

[Black Cloud]

Did the front pads yesterday, it seems it took longer to jack the truck up and take the tires off then do the actual pads.

 

[B.G. Smith]

"it seems it took longer to jack the truck up and take the tires off then do the actual pads. " Congrats and I think you're right. It takes a pretty healthy jack to lift both wheels at the same time. bg

 

[flyboy1]

Sounds like there has been plenty of advice on how to compress the calipers using several different methods. I'm not so sure I would open the bleeder screws unless I was bleeding, but that's me.



I just fixed a problem with my '98 4x2 2500 that involved replacing a caliper. The truck drove fine until you steped on the pedal - at that point, it was pulling very hard to the right. Troubleshot the problem, good rotors, pads, bearings and races on both sides. Noticed left caliper was very stiff when trying to compress. Replaced both sets of slider pins and new caliper on left side and now it stops straight ahead. It's critical to lube your slider pins and the calipers where they slide in the spindle assembly. I used the $12. 00 stuff that comes in a pint plastic can from Autozone. I have done brakes for years on my other vehicles and have never been concerned with lubing anything on them. Seems like I read a post last week talking about how these calipers will bind - it's true! Keep 'em lubed. I think my problem was a combo of a binding right caliper and a weak left caliper.



Wes

 

[willyslover]

Guys... just some thought to mull over NO FLAMES MEANT HERE



do you think that the brake fluid lasts forever, do you think that bleeding brakes is difficult, do you think that pushing old contaminated brake fluid back upstream is a good idea, do you want your caliper and brake lines pitted from water contamination. . ... .come on even the "book" recommends a change of fluid regularly. . easy to do and cheep insurance !



If you need help bleeding them buy yourself, buy a set of Russell speed bleeders [they are one way check valves bleed screws] available at good auto stores and places like Summit or Jegs



Lots of guys are self taught on mechanics [myself included] and that doesn't mean we learned it right. . example, all disc brakes have had instructions to lube the pins for years. . how many of us have done it. . we just now own a rig that shows how bad it can get if not done , also change the pin covers every time you lube the pins as you do not want dirt in there. . another issue is how many have relearned everything needed or even the basics on ABS. . some things needed there also.



we have a 40+K rig and want to do cheep / low cost brake jobs or incomplete jobs... something wrong here IMHO



AGAIN NO FLAME INTENDED TO ANYONE !!

 

[John - K5AWO]

I don't have the link handy, but to summarize:



Brake fluid absorbs moisture by design. That is to keep it from pooling in brake cylinders.



The manufacturers of brake fluid recommend that it be purged with new fluid on a regular schedule. Typically 3 years. Cold climates more often.



This moisture is what causes the rust you see in brake components that have had no maintenance.

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Lubing pins:

I can provide a picture in a couple days of what happens when the pins are not lubed. I just changed the front pads on my truck and there are severe ridges in the pins from the left front caliper digging in. Wouldn't allow the caliper to fully retract from the rotor. Caused a severe left pull when brakes applied and a slight pull to left when driving.

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previous post covers the bleeding issue. My son has a power purging bottle so for me it is easy. Pressure up, bleed it out into a coke bottle until you see clear fluid.