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Changing front shocks - how hard?

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Squirrely AC on Early '04

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Is this a job that the average truck owner should attempt? Do I need a spring compressor?



Disconnect the track bar raise the front end and unbolt the shock tower? Or did I just sign my death warrant?
 
I did mine a couple of months ago, and while they're kind of a pain, it can be done without too much problem. I found that the top shock nut just spun the shock shaft when I tried to loosen it, so I took a hacksaw and cut away the top part of the plastic shock body to the point where I could clamp a pair of vicegrips on the shaft. After getting the top nut loose, I then removed the three nuts off the upper shock mount, removed the mount, pressed the shock shaft back down, removed the shock out the hole, and reinstalled everything in the reverse order.



Steve
 
I think I just pulled the bottom bolt out, unbotled the tower and pulled mine free of the truck. I used wire ties to hold the shock compressed for installation.
 
CPittman said:
So, use wire ties to keep the springs from extending, unbolt the bottom and jack up the truck?



I think what everyone is saying is that you don't need to mess with the springs to remove the shocks and using wire to keep the shocks compressed to simplify the install.
 
CPitman



Not a hard job at all. You'll need a long socket extention for the bottom shock bolts and an offset boxed end wrench. .



Passenger side is easiest. The top shock bolt comes off the shock tower. May have to get the small wrench to hold the shock strut on top while loosening the mount bolt. Remove the bottom shock bolt and leave the nut and wrench in place. You'll use them again real soon. Unbolt the shock tower by removing the three bolts from the base. One is accessed through the fender skirt. The battery boxes are not in the way. The tower will lift off out of the way and remove the shock. Install in reverse order. The Driver's side is the same process but a little more finess is needed due to all the plumbing on top of the shock tower. Shouldn't take more than about 1. 5 hours start to finish. Did mine single handed and no problems.



Have fun with it and enjoy the experience.
 
I replaced all my shocks today and used the same procedure as BigFun wrote. Instead of wire ties I just jacked up and supported my truck by the frame until the front axle was at full droop. Then started one nut on the shock tower. Then took some channel lock pliers to compress the shock tower to shock mount to get another nut started and so forth.
 
Are you guys saying that you can remove the passenger side bottom shock bolt without removing the tie rod end? I raised my truck by the frame, lowered the axle, and tried everything I could think of and couldn't get access to it without removing the tie rod end on the passenger side :confused:



removing the tie rod end is very easy though. Just remove the nut and hit the side of the collar that contains the shaft of the joint. A couple firm hits and it drops right out.
 
Spooled-up said:
Are you guys saying that you can remove the passenger side bottom shock bolt without removing the tie rod end?



Yes - no problem! I just used a long extension and short socket. The lower shock bolt access hole is above the tie rod end IIRC.
 
JStieger said:
Yes - no problem! I just used a long extension and short socket. The lower shock bolt access hole is above the tie rod end IIRC.

Same here !! And for you guys having trouble with the nut on top of the shock, hit it with an impact, regular air or hand rachet will not cut it, quick hit with some speed behind it should break it free. :)
 
Spooled-up said:
Are you guys saying that you can remove the passenger side bottom shock bolt without removing the tie rod end? I raised my truck by the frame, lowered the axle, and tried everything I could think of and couldn't get access to it without removing the tie rod end on the passenger side :confused:

.



You don't even need to raise the truck for this bolt. I used a 6 or 8" extension with my socket. Get the wife to start up the truck and turn the wheel untill the "Y" for the steering bar is right in front of this bolt. Using the skinny/long socket extension under the steering linking at the "Y" will get you access to the bolt.
 
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