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Changing rear Dif Pan

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OK, this may be a newbie question, but hey I'm not the most mechanically inclined. I'm getting ready to install my Magtek rear pan and was wondering if there is anything I should know about special, or is it pretty much a bolt off bolt on deal? I'm sure I can handle it, I just don't want any real surprizes :eek: when I pull it off.



Kev
 
Just make sure and get all of the old gasket material off the housing. I used a wire brush on a drill and it worked great. Stuffed some paper towels over the gears and went to town on a slow speed and it came off great. Just be careful not to mar the surface however you choose to clean it.
 
Be sure you silicone the numbers stamped into the diff case. If you don't it will leak. Epoxy is better but the silicone will work. Also put some silicone on the threads of the bolts in the bottom half of the cover.
 
I am thinking about getting one also. I don't recall where I saw it at but I think in a recent magazine someone had step by step instructions on putting the Mag-hytec cover on. Maybe someone can point us in that direction. Thanks for the help!
 
Originally posted by LSMITH

Be sure you silicone the numbers stamped into the diff case. If you don't it will leak. Epoxy is better but the silicone will work. Also put some silicone on the threads of the bolts in the bottom half of the cover.



LSmith - Can you be more specific about the number stamp leaking? I installed a rear diff cover about a month ago along with a trans pan... no leaks on either. If this was a problem, I would think that Roy would be aware of it and indicate to silicone/epoxy the stamped numbers or better yet, fix the design. :confused:
 
Number stamp

Originally posted by tschwab





LSmith - Can you be more specific about the number stamp leaking? I installed a rear diff cover about a month ago along with a trans pan... no leaks on either. If this was a problem, I would think that Roy would be aware of it and indicate to silicone/epoxy the stamped numbers or better yet, fix the design. :confused:

Terry;

There is a number stamped in the mating surface of the rear diff. housing. It may or may not be where the o-ring seal hits the housing. I do not have the instructions handy, but think it was addressed by Mag-Hytec to put some silicone there to smooth out that area. :D :D
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm gonna wait until I get all my new guages so I can put the sender in at the same time. I have the instructions that came with the cover and didn't see anything about putting silicone on the stamped numbers, but I'll take a better look.



Kev
 
Call Mag-Hytec, they can tell you how much fluid is required. The Dana 80 takes 6 qts + 2 bottles of friction modifier if you have LSD.



I bought their "LE 90wt" good stuff, but kinda pricey, around $8. 00 per qt.
 
Kev

My first attempt ended up with a leak. I did not "smooth out" the stamped letter "D" in the gasket area as I didn't know one was supposed to do that. . I thought I could tighten up the bolts a little bit more than the recommended torque (my torque wrench was set at 35 Ft-Pounds)and streached a couple of the bolts. I was lucky to back them out with out breaking them off. I called Jerry at Mag-Hytec and he explained about the stamping problem and said that a thick grease on the gasket area should end the problem. I did this and I had no leaks for about 10 days. Then the grease must have disolved and the oil began to leak. I was a little fustrated so I pulled the pan, cleaned it up and applied a nice bead of RTV to the gasket area - I fugured I would not ever have to remove the pan again so I fixed it good. It's been a couple of months now and no sign of a leak. Jerry sent me some new bolts so I can replace the standard 3/8" bolts I used to replace the streached bolts. Good Luck, Lynn.
 
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