changing the trans fluid

[Matt400]

Hey... I just had a great idea for the DIYers out there. Try this procedure out-

• Remove the return line at transmission
  
• Attach a hose to it and into a 5 gal can
  
• Start the truck and put in neutral
  
• Pump out 1 gallon and shut engine off
  
• Remove Pan, replace filter, install pan
  
• Add one gallon new fluid
  
• Start engine and put in neutral
  
• Add new fluid through the fill tube
  
• Use additional 3 gallons
  

The return line is the one connected to the rear of the trans.

For best results use a translucent drain container marked in 1/2 gallon increments so that you can add to the fill tube at the same rate the bucket is filling. Installing a plug in the trans where you disconnected the line will help with any over fill condition if you dump in too much.



An even better idea would be to install a valve at that point so you could select to divert the flow to the bucket. Doing that would make it a snap to check level and drain as needed if you overfilled when done. Plus you would never have to take the line loose again. . just hook up a hose to the divert port.



Disclaimer Set the park brake

 

[DPKetchum]

D. C. trans dosen't move much fliud in park or neutral. Thats one reason its done in low or reverse on them.

 

[Matt400]

D. C. trans dosen't move much fliud in park or neutral. Thats one reason its done in low or reverse on them.

I know they won't in park but haven't had any trouble getting good flow in neutral. We use a Wynn's machine that only delivers to the vehicle while the trans does the exit work.



Some machines can cause too much back pressure in the exit line which will force a trans into a bypass mode to keep fluid circulating, if your machine is doing that it would be a good idea to check its filter for restriction.

 

[DZink24]

is there a step by step write up in any of the print issues of the TDR?

 

[BGlidewell]

never seen it

 

[Lordsman]

Real good info here... I bought mine at 93k and it's at 95k now. transmission fluid is real pink and smells good. I'm learning from you, have never done transmission maintenance before, but I gonna learn! I think from what I've read and since I don't know whats been done on mine; I'll pull the pan/clean it, change the filter, adjust the band(s), bucket flush it, and upgrade the drain. Shifts real good, but drops into OD too soon for me sometimes. Does the band adjustment fix that?

 

[RRB]

I drain the pan (deep dish), drop the pan & change the filter, reinstall pan, refill with ~8 qts, remove return line and redirect to a bucket, have someone sit in the truck & listen to instructions while you carefully watch, start the truck (in neutral) and let the transmission pump fluid into a bucket, shut the truck off as soon as the pump stream slows, refill with ~6qts, start the truck, stop the truck as soon as the color of the fluid changes, fill to correct level. You will end up replacing about 22 quarts but most of what's left is new. Keep track of how much you have drained so you can get close to proper fill. I know this isn't perfect and know there will be lots of critique but it works for me & only takes about an hour. Most specifically I change most of the fluid this way, not just a few quarts. I believe my '06 with a deep dish holds 21 qts. This is really easy so good luck.

 

[DZink24]

this may be a silly question, but when adding ATF via the fill tube under the hood, is it for all intents and purposes, a direct flow to the bottom of the pan? will it flow thru the torque converter and the rest of the "guts" of the transmission?

on the rear fluid return line, i have noticed that there are 2 spots that will take a wrench, one larger than the other. i have been spraying lubricant on them every few days to loosen them up so they will be easier to remove. which one of the 2 should i loosen to remove it from the rear of the pan?? attached is a photo of the return line, and the smaller of the 2 connections is at the rusty area almost in the immediate center of the pic, right where the line goes into the pan.

 

[cerberusiam]

The smaller outside fitting is the nut for the flare fitting you want to loosen. The big fitting threads into the case to adapt to the flare.



Yes they will get rusty and be a bugger to get loose. You might have to work the flare nut back and forth a couple times to get it loose from the line. If you don't it will twist the line and possibly crack it.