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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) changing VP44 need help?!?

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OK Just pulled the VP and found the Engine mounting bracket is broken :{ :{ That looks like a PIA to change. Guess I need to R and R the power steering pump to get o the torx head bolts :rolleyes: Anyone no what parts/special tools I need to Remove the power steering pump???



Also How do you torque the Injector nuts/ With a crows foot? Are the torque values different that way? How about the VP mounting bolts? Had to go in at an angle to loosen them. Won't that change the torque values? As you can tell I am a stickler for details :-laf I usually break enough stuff to pay for a mechanic to do the job he first time. For some reason when I work on other peoples stuff it all goes smooth.



Anyway any magic bullets for the broken bracket would be Oo. Oo. Oo.
 
the power steering/vacuum pump comes off with 3 bolts up against the gear case cover. should just pull right off after that.



best way I've seen on the injector lines is leave the back 3 attached to the injectors and loosen them from the pump. Then remove the front 3 from the injectors and pump. Caint help much with torque values on the bolts. I just tightened them down till they were good and tight.



Nathan
 
If you are even asking the question about tightening torque values, you are enough of a wrencher to know that you just have to tighten the bolts so that you don't twist off the heads of the bolts, which is rare!



Just make sure that the 'key' of the new (or even the old) VP44 doesn't fall into the front gear area (which mine did :) ). Add 3 or 4 more hours if that takes place. Also, I agree with the previous poster; take the lines off in groups of three.

Bob in Sacto
 
I got that part done

Pump is off. did take the lines off in groups of three. My problem is with the bracket mounted on the engine. This is the bracket that the VP44 lower mounting bracket bolts to. There are two Allen or torx head screws and a bolt that hold it to the engine block. One of the screws looks like it is not going to come out without removing the power steering pump.



Questions are. How important is this mount?

Would JB weld work, the part broke at an angle? No I did not break it, cannot imagine what did.

If I do remove the PS pump, are there any tips? Gaskets needed etc.

Thanks guys

BTW

I am learning an awful lot about this fuel system. Too bad the DC engineers did not do the same thing. The tank module is a joke. Every Ram owner should trash can that thing ASAP. I'll bet big $$$$$ that lift pump and VP failures would slow to a trickle. Can you say overengineered. I'll post my fix as soon as it is done, on a new thread of course.
 
Tractorface,



When I changed my VP44 I did not need to remove the PS pump. I was able to remove all of the bolts from the block with not problem. As for fixing the bracket it will need to be welded and I'm not talking about JB Weld. My guess as to what caused it to break is matel fatigue caused by the bracket being installed with a bind. When you got to reinstall attach the bracket to the VP44 first. Then install the VP44 leaving the bolts in the bracket loose until the front mounting bolts are tight. Then go back and tighten up the bracket bolts.



Kevin
 
Cummins has a new improved mounting bracket for the VP44. The difference between the old and new is substantial. I can't recall whether it is just the bracket that the pump bolts to, or the bracket that bolts to the block. From what I recall, you will need to pull the PS pump/resevoir to get to the one bottom bolt in the block.



The bracket will need to be welded or replaced outright. The VP is heavy (as I am sure you know) and the aluminum housing isn't strong enough on its own to withstand the vibrations within the engine compartment, etc.



Craig
 
I know I am being greedy but Cummins is having Computer issues. Anyone have any idea what the part number for the engine mounting bracket is?

Thanks
 
tractorface ,

I have come across quite a few of those brackets broken on high mileage trucks. I would consider it very important. Without the proper support the Vp is apt to crack. Yes you will have to remove the pumps to access the bolts. Last time I bought the bracket it had superceded,you may need both halfs to work correctly (from later model).



Bob
 
Thanks Bob4x4,

I am going to remove the parts tonight. The work is the easy part. Tracking down parts is no fun. Can't imagine how guys without desk jobs get it done. I have been on the phone for hours, mostly on hold, trying to explain what parts I need only to get no where. I'll try again tomorrow with the parts in my hand and a fresh outlook. Meanwhile the Isuzu Trooper will have to do. If you think your truck is loud try driving my 91 Trooper. The brake squeal will drive you nuts
 
E-mail me at work and will send to you. Was going to post pictures but need to check with Cummins first so I don't violate my dealer agreement. Probably OK to post illustrations but easier to check with them first then to get into trouble.

-- email address removed --

Mike
 
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Using my ESN, (98. 5 ISB) I still came up with two different mounting options. Really need your engine serial number to get this right. Also, in my previous post, I mean to e-mail you pictures and part numbers, not sell you something. Don't want anybody to get the wrong idea. Just trying to help with the resources I have at hand. :D :D

**Also brace may have part number on it or stamped in it. Cummins is pretty good about that. ***
 
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You will also need the updated bolts. The updated bracket is the same which is used on 2000-02 engines. Don't try to weld the old bracket, it will probably just break again. I've done it several times and yes, it is a pain in the a$$.
 
Damn, Stuck part way through because the Cummins guy swore I did not need the updated pump bracket to go with my engine bracket. Guess I'll order it Monday. As usual the TDR guys are right on the money. One more question, the manual says to loosen the engine bracket until the vp is bolted to it. I do not see how this is possible!?1
 
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