Charging trailer batteries

[Heetseeker_1]

I just perchased a 23' Prowler tt and am looking at the wiring situation. The trailer has a salvage title due to a battery fire after an Einstien buckled his batteries down with a large chain. You can guess what happened next. Well, most of the wires are toast and I need to set it up so my truck will charge both new batteries when driving. Any suggestions? Do I need an isolator? My dodge has the tow package.

Thanks, Steve.

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98 qc, 12V, 4x4, slt laramie, 47re slushbox, 3:54 ls diff, 2YG pkg, Kelsey trailer brake control, dodge running boards, diamond plate bed rails, prime designs bug shields, silencer ring wind chime on porch, Raven cab-hi camper shell, psychotty air system, T/C lock-up switch, gutted cat, Walker muffler 22572, crome 5" tip from Kenworth stack, Isspro guages, A pillar 3 guage mount, TST #6 250/635.

Toys: 70' F250 4x4 highboy- 429cid 400+ hp on 35"BFG's(ranch truck) 64' MF 205 tractor 3cyl perkins diesel w/bucket

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

An isolator AND a fuse would be very much advised... #ad


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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... Tweaked pump, upgraded radiator... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

"Dura" WHAT? NOW I know where all those recycled beer cans go...

 

[C Schomer]

What does the isolater do? I've wondered about 14. 5V for a long period when on the road. I thought everything was properly fused with the tow package, but maybe I'm wrong. That's what I get for thinking! Craig

 

[illflem]

An isolator will prevent your TT from running down the truck batteries so you can't start and also give the truck batteries first shot at getting charged. Once the truck batteries are charged the isolator opens to allow the TT batteries to charge. If you are careful not to draw down the batteries too much you could probably get by without an isolator, but it only takes one morning in the boonies with a dead truck battery to make you wish for an isolator.

 

[Heetseeker_1]

Will chase down some parts tomorrow, and thanks for the advise. Isolator= 12 bucks, misc. wiring= cheap, truck starting in the boonies= PRICELESS!

#ad

Steve.

 

[Glen]

I don't use an isolator. I do unplug the trailer connector if I stop for the night--the poor man's isolator.

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Glen Eaton
2001 2500QC SLT LB 5sp 4x4 Garnet, Line-X, Steel GemTop, Karry boat loader, VDO gauges, Tekonsha Envoy

 

[klenger]

Does the isolator use a diode or a relay? A diode would cause a 0. 6 volt drop, which would prevent the trailer batteries from charging fully. I don't have an isolator on mine, and have never had a problem, but then we always disconnect as soon as it's parked.
I also have a solar panel on the trailer to keep the battery charged as we almost never camp where there are hookups. Works great. I think that solar panels on RVs are one of the best kept secrets in the RV world. If you're interested, check out this site.

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Ken Lenger
2001. 5 2500 QC 4X4 SWB SLT, ETC/DDX 5 Speed, 3. 54 (no LSD), camper group, trailer folding mirrors, RBR CD/Radio, LT265/75R16E AT OWL tires, trailer tow group, Patroit Blue / Agate, Westin CPS Step Bars, Jordan Utlima Brake Controller, Weather_Guard 664 tool box/
Replaces 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 which is for sale.
Trailite 21' Travel Trailer, ~4000 lbs loaded.

 

[illflem]

Ken, when you use a solar panel on your TT is there any precautions when the trailer batteries are being charged by the truck to avoid damage to the panel?

 

[klenger]

The system requires a charging controller. It's main purpose is to prevent the solar panel from over charging the battery. I assume it also blocks battery voltage from doing anything to the panel. The panels also have diodes installed, but I can't remember what their purpose is. In any event, the system works great. My next camper (5er) will have at least two 120 watt panels and two 224 amp-hour golf cart batteries. That should be good for a consertive 70 amp-hours of power / day.

 

[Heetseeker_1]

Followed some of the wires back to the inverter and I have 2 12v hot (red,black) and 1 ground (white). Why 2 hots? To charge 2 batteries when hooked up to shore power?

The harness that connects to the truck was fried and the insulation for ID purposes is gone. My questions are:

1. Do I connect both + and - posts of the batteries together with cables?
2. Does the hook up require an inline fuse from the trailer inverter to the batteries or from the truck to the batteries, or both?
3. One wire comes from the break-away switch. Does this connect to a + post?

Thanks for the assistance. . If you can't tell, i'm new at this! #ad


Steve.

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by Heetseeker_1:
2. Does the hook up require an inline fuse from the trailer inverter to the batteries or from the truck to the batteries, or both?
B]

Steve, I just dropped my daughter off to pick up her car at auto audio place that installed an amp that draws 70 amps in her trunk. I was very impressed by the professional manner in which it was done. There was a inline fuse by the battery and another by the amp in the same wire. The installer said that the fuses should be within 8" of the amp and battery, one to protect the wire, the other to protect the amp. I would think that the same would go for an inverter. Inline fuses are cheap, the damage that can happen without them can be expensive.

 

[TowPro]

If I am not mistaking, the Tow Package on your dodge includes a relay which turns off when the key if off, so your RV will not drain the truck battries.

I also think there is a relay for the Parking light circuit and the backup circuit.


Anybody have a wire diagram for the truck to verify this?

Originally posted by Gary - KJ6Q:
An isolator AND a fuse would be very much advised... #ad

 

[Thomas]

The only circuit in the trailer tow package with a relay is the running light circuit. The B+ circuit is only fused.

 

[Heetseeker_1]

Illflem,
Great advice.

Towpro,

Any advice on the two battery connection?

Thanks again,

Steve.

 

[Shoer1]

I recently lost the running lights on my trailer. . no voltage on the wire. I checked it way up in the harness too. Swapped the relay and fuse, still nothing. I had to tap into the licence plate lights to get me by. Any ideas? And why is there a relay on the running light circuit anyway?
Thanks guys!

 

[PRout]

An isolator is a waste of time & money. Also something else to go wrong. Keep it simple & unplug it.

 

[dresslered]

A good isolator should use a FET rather than a diode which would produce virtually no voltage drop. Nontheless, I use a solenoid switch.

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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, HO Cummins (ETH), 6-Speed (DEE), SLT+, 3. 54 LSD, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Heated Leather, Sliding Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine + diff. temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, Mag-Hytec, Mopar Tow Hooks, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper. "Do it in a Dually"

 

[Thomas]

Shoer1,

The relay on the running lights keeps the load off the minimal DC headlight switch.

 

[BV]

Yeah folks - The real Isolator is around 150-200 clams for the high output so I used a Tekonsha Battery Switch (solenoid) for about 15 through Camping World.

 

[rrl989]

Instead of an isolator, I use a mechanical solenoid connected to the ignition switch. I have had problems with isolator diodes in the past. The trailer pkg. relay is only for the campers running lights.


Ron

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98 3500 QC 4X4 Int Blue, 6BTA5. 9, Auto 3. 54 LSD, PIAA Pro90's, RS9000's, Tonneau, Running Boards, 5K Air Bags, Hadley Air Horns, EGT/Boost/transmission Temp Gauges, Cobra / K40, Valley class V, Bugflector II, Bedliner, Tow Hooks, Cup Smoothie, Meg's turn-down tip, SS Fender Flares... .....

99 Lance 1110 Slide-On Truck Camper