Here I am

Archived charging trouble

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Archived NV4500 dieing near Ogden, UT

Archived HELP!! Lost AUTO trans over RR tracks ??

Status
Not open for further replies.
need help QUICK! last week i noticed that my alternator was not working. so i took it to the auto parts store and they said it was charging but was not putting out full power. they told me it was going out and would eventually die. i took it home and put it back on and and still the next day the truck would not start and after i had it jump started i noticed that the lights were dim and the raido turned off. three days later i bought a new alternator and it did not fix anything. my dad told me to ask about were the voltage regulator is on the 93 dodges because the chiltons book showed it on the firewall and its not there. i dont know what to do, any help would be nice.



hunter stone

elgin, TX
 
Your alternator is controlled by the PCM or computer, it is located behind the battery. If the alternator checks out good at the parts store, the next thing is to check is trouble codes . Do that by turning the ignition key on-off-on-off-on (don't turn the engine over key on = run position). The codes are two digits represented by two sets of flashes separated by a short pause, longer pause between each number. code 55 = end of codes = 5 flashes, short pause 5 flashes. reply back with codes
 
after i turned the key in the sequence you said the service light flashed 1-2-2 then the two sequences of 5-5. or it could be 1-2-1-1.
 
Last edited:
Ok the problem is the code 11, that is "no crank reference signal" the computer won't turn on the alternator unless it thinks the engine is turning. The crank sensor is located on the front of the engine above the front pulley, on the passenger side of the motor. Check the wire harness, there is a connection right behind the fan-bearing mount. The gap on the sensor to the crank is . 050", use a brass feeler gage and make sure the crank notches aren't under the sensor when you gap it. Start with this first as the sensor is usually the cause of the code 11.
 
Last edited:
thanks for the info. as soon as i get home i will check the sensor, after i got to work i tried to start it durring lunch but the battery was once agian dead. i will reply back this afternoon with results.
 
Did you check the wire from the sensor for any damage, also check the connector, and make sure it is clean & seated completely?



Disconnect the crank sensor, on the side that has the socket pins (opposite the sensor side) check for the following:



Tan wire with yellow stripe = 7 volts or better with ignition on

Grey wire with black stripe = 4. 5 volts or better with ignition on

Black wire with light blue stripe = 5 ohms or less resistance to ground
 
the battery is charging now so saturday or sunday i will try what you said. I really want to say thank you for all of your help, even the dealer could not give me the kind of information you have.
 
It shouldn't, that sensor is just telling the computer how fast the engine is turning, If you have a tachometer that plugs into the stock wiring harness then it wouldn't work ether, because the computer drives the tachometer.



PS Welcome to the forum!
 
Sensor plug came loose on mine. I had no A/C, no charging, and no overdrive (automatic trans). You might try to clean the connection and apply some dielectric grease.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top