Chassis rot

[diesel DOG]

Ok my 2001 is fairly clean underneath except I found this by the front bumper. One side was still solid so I drilled a drain hole. The other side not so lucky. It didn't look bad till I drilled it. Opened it up and it had dirt and rust in it. So I shot some rust converter at it for next two days and then will paint it to prevent further damage. Maybe I'll weld it up in spring not sure.

 

[diesel DOG]

Strange one side solid one git clogged and rotted. Any other thoughts for repair?

 

[jgillott]

I was just near a 2005 that has similar looking frame issues just behind the cab. Will need approximately 6" of plate added on each rail to fix it for now.

Your only choice at this point short of replacing the frame is to plate that section. It should get you by for a while. However, I will caution you, once it goes through in one spot, there are usually other areas hiding the same thing that will pop up in a short while.

 

[JR]

My 98 rotted at the same spot. Water must collect inside the frame and eventually cause it to rot.

I stitched welded a chunk of 1/8" plate up high where it was still solid, heated it up with a rose bud tip on a torch and beat it into the shape of the frame. I also plated the side and butt welded the two plates together. When I was done I drilled a small hole in the bottom to allow any water to drain out and also be able to spray some fluid film up in there every so often.

 

[diesel DOG]

Rest of frame is solid only one side rotted because it was clogged. Painted today probably leave it as is. Plenty of strength left there. Warmer weather may make plate to fit in flush.

 

[DavidC]

Guess I will have to look at mine. Now that we are retired and traveling the luxury of no rust in Az. is not true anymore. Maybe use some Eastwood internal frame coating is due.

Dave

 

[diesel DOG]

Drain hole helps too.

 

[Joe Mc]

I’m going to take a wild guess (for because mine was the same) that the area in the picture is just forward of the steering box. If so, or not, here’s what I did: I got luck and located an 01 in a yard that had the front sheet metal, engine and everything else affixed to the left frame rail. Sawzall off the front portion cutting just aft of the steering gear $25!!! Drilled around where mine was rotted just on the bottom seamed area and a bit on both sides of the rail till I hit sold metal then taped off some straight lines about 1” up from bottom along the rail and about 1” beyond sheer I hit sold metal, cut out with a P-grinder wheel. I used the piece I cut out as a template on the acquired section of rail and cut 1/4” more than I needed. Cleaned up inside of my rails, etch prime and Eastwood internal frame coating. Fit the piece to the frame and frame to the pice - but welded, re- coated internal after new piece welded in, cleaned up welds and etch prime and painted external of frame. That was a few years back and it actually still looks good. Mine was a bit tricky as it was close to the tubes that run thru the frame for the steering box bolts. My suspicion as to why that side rotted and not the right side = steel tubes for steering box bolts.

 

[DavidC]

Did the Coating today. Used half a can doing both sides thru the available holes. I see where this particular section is a problem being a low point and no bottom drain. In Az. being like that is probably not a problem as any water that gets in there would evaporate rather fast. I have used 4 cans of that coating on the truck so far, I hope it works as well as Eastwood advertises.. Thanks diesel Dog for bringing that to attention.

Dave

 

[diesel DOG]

Great guys!

My doors are next, all 4 of them. Plan gel rust remover, and /or small tube sand blaster. Then West Systems epoxy and glass on interior of bottom 4" minimum of door creating a trough. Keep all drains at bottom of door. Then any other filling done with West Systems epoxy resin mixed with WS filler added. Much better than any Bondo. I'll use 4" or 6" wide glass cloth tape for ease inside the doors. Rust proof anything above the glassed area up towards door tops. That should take truck to end of it's life or mine LOL.

 

[Shelby Griggs]

I am just glad that our DOT (Oregon) uses minimal salt and I live in a drier climate away from salt water, my undercarriage looks essentially brand new after almost 18 years.

 

[diesel DOG]

Me jealous

 

[DavidC]

I am just glad that our DOT (Oregon) uses minimal salt and I live in a drier climate away from salt water, my undercarriage looks essentially brand new after almost 18 years.

Mine still has the paper tags on it, even I was amazed.

Dave

 

[jgillott]

Mine still has the paper tags on it, even I was amazed.

Dave

It is nearly impossible to wear a vehicle out around here before it dies of rust issues. Even with the best of care and attention, rust gets them eventually.

 

[DavidC]

It is nearly impossible to wear a vehicle out around here before it dies of rust issues. Even with the best of care and attention, rust gets them eventually.

Yeah, I remember those days growing up in Pa.. Guaranteed in those days was trade it in at the most by 5 years before the rust became bad enough.

Dave

 

[jgillott]

Yeah, I remember those days growing up in Pa.. Guaranteed in those days was trade it in at the most by 5 years before the rust became bad enough.

Dave

That's about the extent of it. A non rust-protected vehicle will start to show signs in that 5 year range.

 

[RMHanes]

Took 98.5 truck with about 170K in for brake work and was sent these pictures. Evaluating a repair or time for a newer truck.

 

[jgillott]

Took 98.5 truck with about 170K in for brake work and was sent these pictures. Evaluating a repair or time for a newer truck.View attachment 101678View attachment 101679

As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I've been working on a 2005 off and on over the last couple of weeks for a guy from this area. I had to plate over 6" of frame just behind the cab for it to pass state inspection. If it had been my truck, I would have never put that much effort in that rust patch. I would have sold the truck or found a new frame for it.

The one I just finished working on looked a lot worse than what yours appears in the pictures. However, once you get in there and start chipping away looking for something good to weld to, I think you will be shocked at how extensive the damage is. My $.02 is to think long and hard before you start trying to fix that frame. It really is a ton of work to do it right and frankly, it is only a temporary solution. Rust will pop through in another area in short while.

Sorry to be negative, but I've done way to much of this type of work and know what the end result usually is.

 

[Shelby Griggs]

That is some sad photos, I would post some photos of my 2001.5, BUT it wouldn't make you feel very good because no rust here after almost 18 years in Central Oregon, I would rather have no salt on the roads and drive like it is slick than buy a new rig all the time.

 

[RMHanes]

Thanks for the replies. Had truck since new and running financial numbers now. Had similar experience with a Chevy Luv w/2.2 Isuzu Diesel. After patched frame ran for 5 more years before transmission failed.