"CHASSIS SAVER" reviews? STOPS RUST rust prevention

[IC Smoke]

Has anyone used this?

A buddy of mine just put a new rear bumper on his 94 ram and he painted the back of the bumper in this stuff. looks great and seems like a good product! kinda high on price but for what it claims about stopping rust it looks worth it



www.magnetpaints.com

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp





off their site:

"CHASSIS SAVER™ is a high solids, VOC compliant, single component chassis paint and underbody coating specially formulated to permanently stop automotive and truck corrosion without the use of primers or topcoats. Chassis Saver’s unique "RUST STOPPING" properties permit its application directly over tightly adhered rust after only marginal surface preparation using a wire brush and/or hand scraper to remove loose scale and rust particulate. Optimum results can be achieved by sandblasting a medium blast profile to surfaces. Chassis Saver bonds to blasted and rusty metal to form a rock hard yet flexible, glaze-like, non-porous finish that won’t crack, chip, flake or peel. It works by isolating metal from oxygen and moisture, and without these factors present... RUST STOPS – Dead in its tracks! Chassis Saver cures by reacting with atmospheric moisture and its cured film resembles that of a catalyzed finish yet no hardeners or activators are used. Chassis Saver is completely unaffected by road salt, gasoline, diesel fuel, oils, battery acids, hydraulic fluids, solvents, chemicals, or corrosives.



CHASSIS SAVER™ has proven itself over 10 years under the harshest conditions – More than 350 townships, public works departments and local DOT fleet maintenance facilities use CHASSIS SAVER for protection of snow and ice removal equipment, highway, off road and general vehicle maintenance. "

 

[PRattenbury]

I was doing a frame off rotisserie resto on a Chevelle and asked the sandblasting/powdercoating guy what he recommends as far as products like that. I told him I had used POR-15 in the past. He told me about Chassis Saver. Being a person that removes coatings from metal items on a daily basis, I'm confident he has a good idea what works and what doesn't. He told me POR-15 was pretty easy to take off. He said Chassis Saver was the toughest stuff to get off. But if you want a good product for less money, he says brush-on Rust-Oleum is really tough stuff as well. Not as tough as Chassis Saver, but tougher than POR-15. Surprised me, since I spent big bucks on POR-15. Chassis Saver does level nice as well, so it gives you a nice looking finish. Strangely, I've seen it but never used it myself.

 

[stacerbob]

Can't remember the name but the chassis rust stuff from EASTWOOD is better than the POR-15 & its less money.

 

[IC Smoke]

The Chassis Saver looks like a good product, the finish is smooth and I coudlnt gouge my finger into what my buddy put on. He had a little run onto the bumper itself but it flaked off being a polished finish.



Im looking to do my frame and other misc parts under the truck since Im here in MI and everything metalic turns to rust



Ian

 

[IC Smoke]

The michigan salt/snow and dirt roads will pretty much eat at anything I put on. I have painted a few tractor parts with Rust-Oleum but it seems that it needs to be a very clean surface for a good stick. I dont know if I have enough time in the day to get all the rust off the frame of my rig. I only want to coat my frame once but I dontknow about spending 370 for 5 gallons of the Chassis Saver



How do the other products hold up?





Ian

 

[CumminsAholic]

I dunno about other products, but you should be able to get by with a gallon or 2 to do your frame shouldn't ya? Thanks for the link, I may look into this more as I have to undercoat the ramcharger before the cummins goes in... Even though it's a california body the salt would have it rusted out in 2 years otherwise.

Corey

 

[Mundgyver]

Look into one these as an active system



http://www.counteractrust.com/counteract.htm



This one is similar to one I had on my Van in Hawaii when I was stationed out there. It was called a RustBuster and I had it on the van from 89 upto 97 and I had a spot that I had sanded off to bare metal about the size of a quarter when I first installed.



In never rusted or showed any signs of rust formation.



The system I had, had 4 individual blocks that I put one (1 per corner of the van) and 1 central control unit. It would put out 8 milli-volts every 10 seconds.



In a nut-shell Rust is when the electrons decide to migrate from one part of the structure to another. The system prevents the migration of the electrons, thus preventing the metal from degrading or what we know as rusting. .



When I bought my system back then, I seem to remember it ran me about $200 at the time. I'm not sure how much they would cost one, but I know they work very well.



Almost forgot, if you buy one, don't just stick the electrodes on the paint. The best way to mount them is to measure them off and sand down a square to bare metal that is just a tad smaller than the electrode contact patch. Then when you apply the electrode you will be in direct contact with the metal, primer, and surface paint. That will give you the best contact. Also if you have insuslated body parts, ground straps are recommended.



Good luck on what ever you decide to do.

 

[Warpig]

Chassis Saver

I used Chassis Saver on the inside of the bottom door panels. I have an 02 and have seen an 01 rust through. The pinch weld traps water and it was rusting away. I sanded and applied the chassis saver and it looks great. The material sealed the pinch weld and no more rust. The stuff levels well also. If you have an 01 or 02 and want to save your bottom door panels I recommend this product. I imagine it will work on all undercarriage parts that is not vulnerable to uv.



Tim W.

 

[IC Smoke]

the CS webpage says that due to UV exposure it will fade to a gray chalk color, and to fix that sand and paint! so pretty much the control arms would be the only thing to coat.





warpig thanks for the info!!!



Ian

 

[MyDiesel]

I'm new to the site, and now have about 1500 miles on my first diesel. A 3500 Mega cab. Hello to all.



Now. . I worked at the largest lagoon in the world, located just 700 miles north of the equator. The island was 2 mi by 3 mi. Salt etched the air traffic control tower windows to the point of replacement in about 6 months. Treating rust was a scheduled monthly task. When I arrived, I was told to paint my new bike with 2 or 3 more coats of paint before assembly to help it last longer. Longer was about 3 months. I tested paint. Stainless steel left bare would begain to rust in 10 days. Coated with clear Rust-Oleum would make it last about 23 days. A product called Restore never rusted in 9 months, the end of my test. The Restore gave the same results on my steel bike. This chemical is sold under different brand names. I can't tell you the chemical name. It goes on milky white and turns nearly black. It can be used as primer or left unpainted. In my test, I did not paint it. Just done a search. This product looks like the same chemical. http://www.interstateproducts.com/rustkiller.htm

 

[BigDaddy]

MyDiesel,



Welcome to the TDR Oo. Oo.



I called Interstate Products (800) 474-7294 and spoke to Ken about the 1 Step Rust Killer. We spoke at some length discussing the product benefits and how it compares to other rust solutions in the marketplace. Without going into detail about our conversation; I will say that I was impressed with the comparison that he gave to epoxy paints. Specifically that 1 Step will out last these finishes 4:1.



Another interesting note is that 1 Step will dry to a certain degree of black depending on the amount of rust. If you use it on a surface not rusted it would dry clear. So, if you want uniformity, plan on giving 1 Step a top coat.



Both, the 1 Step and Chassis Saver sound like great products. Hmmm… which one to use





BigDaddy’s sitting on the fence, scratching his chin, and waiting to see where this thread goes

 

[MyDiesel]

Thanks for the welcome BigDaddy,



Sounds like 1 Step is the same chemical I've tested. I purchased some rust preventive/treatment at Ace Hardware a few years back. In the fine print it stated that the name use to be Restore. I painted a test patch on non-rusted metal. I was disapointed when it dried and stayed clear. I figured that with a name change maybe it had a formula change creating a less quality product. Looks like it worked as you stated above. I will look for products with these same qualities as 1 Step for all my rust prevention/treatment. I use to live near Sandusky, OH. and know about the salt. But nothing prepaired me for the rust problems I found on that little island. I had to find a fix if one was available.

 

[CLiberty]

Lawson Rust Converter

I have used a product very similar to the Restore , it`s called Lawson Rust Converter . Same deal, goes on milky white/tan and dries black. I got it to do the frame/undersides of my truck. I did a couple of test spots to see how well it holds up. I brushed it on with almost NO prep work. It dried to a very hard black finish, a couple of weeks later I cleaned the underside of the truck with a 2200 psi pressure washer, I COULD NOT get this stuff to flake/chip/peel, it even withstood a direct blast with a zero degree tip on the psi washer wand! Now if I could only find enough time to do the WHOLE truck I`ll be set.

 

[Warpig]

MyDiesel,



Welcome to the TDR Oo. Oo.



I called Interstate Products (800) 474-7294 and spoke to Ken about the 1 Step Rust Killer. We spoke at some length discussing the product benefits and how it compares to other rust solutions in the marketplace. Without going into detail about our conversation; I will say that I was impressed with the comparison that he gave to epoxy paints. Specifically that 1 Step will out last these finishes 4:1.



Another interesting note is that 1 Step will dry to a certain degree of black depending on the amount of rust. If you use it on a surface not rusted it would dry clear. So, if you want uniformity, plan on giving 1 Step a top coat.





Both, the 1 Step and Chassis Saver sound like great products. Hmmm… which one to use





BigDaddy’s sitting on the fence, scratching his chin, and waiting to see where this thread goes

Joe, you can check out the chassis saver I applied to my lower doors (inside) at the Seafood Challenge. I bought it at an auto paint store on Main Street Bridgeport just north of the rt25 overpass.



Tim W.

 

[IC Smoke]

The lawson stuff looks to be like the others and a quality product! Im pretty much in a complex tring to decide on which to use. all the products listed claim and look to be like the perfect product to use but I guess it will come down to cost.



Chassis saver has alot of precautions and warnings when using the product. Im not sure about the others. When im doing the frame it wont take me 10 min so I dont want the product to start to harden before I get it finished... ... heck im not sure what to get for the rig!



Ian

 

[BigDaddy]

Tim,



I had no idea you were using any of this stuff. I am very interested and seeing it. Thanx.





Ian,



The 1 Step page said, “use just soap and water for clean up, Safer to use then latex paint, Non-Flammable-Low VOC, Water Based Treatment, and Approved for use on all non-food contact surface. ”



So, if it is chemicals that worry you, 1 Step seems safer than Chassis Safer.

 

[IC Smoke]

If the more "hazardous" product will work better on the truck then Ill use that... but I have a copy of C. S. paperwork and it says to do small areas at a time yada yada yada... . and you must put a piece of suran (sp) wrap inbetween the can and the lid or it will seal itself shut!! :--)



Maybe I should buy 1 gal of the Chassis Saver and one of the "1st step" and coat my salt spreader frame half and half then see how it holds up after a season of snow/ice removal! Although I would like to do the truck this year as well... . Hmmm



Ian