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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cheap High Idle, Oem Feature?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Water pump died, easy fix

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I don't know if you are all giving up on this but I wanted to add my two cents. My PTO is on the trans. case. If there was a PTO option wold it not only be enabled with the truck in gear and the trans. case in neutral. How would the trans. case turn if the transmission is in N.
 
How about this

Ok we know that the cruise will not engage until 35 mph. If we trick the ECM in to thinking that it is moving above 35 then then we could use the cruise as the control for the HIGH IDLE just like the two 50 pin plugs on a FRIGHT LINER. Now where is that wire HA HA!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Mad Mail to DC

:mad: How about we ALL send mail to DC and deplore how

they have crippled our trucks and tell them we want the functionality put back, as it relates to the current thread, idle and PTO.



I was starting to look for a PTO

for my 99 but why bother now. I will probably spend a bundle on 3rd part switches and controllers.



On a similar note, where do you suggest I send a note about features that I would like to see. How about remote control read side windows? They have them in the vans. Ever tried to reach the one on the driver's side and 65mph :--)





My 2 c's worth Oo.
 
I have the Throttle Commander on my '01. It was the first thing I found, I was kind of desparate to find something for warm up. It works fine except for a couple of things. First, it is expensive (only my opinion). Second, you have to by an adjustment tool to change the factory settings (this is expesive and you need it once). Third, it is either on or off. Mine has two settings. I had talked the parts dealer into buying the adjustment tool and letting me use it for a fee. I set mine for 1000rpm and 1200rpm. I installed a on-off-on switch to control it. I wish I would have looked a little harder before I bought this.



I just noticed about the 100 pin ECM. What is this and how would I get one? Can I get more features out of the engine? At this time I am trying to decide if I should buy my '01 at the end of the lease, about 18 months left, or get a new one. I really like the new 4 door set up but I have never driven one yet. I have a great dealer hear in Pa. and I am sure they will take care of me.



Brad
 
DOH!



200+ POSTS!



Looks like I stepped in it again.



Uh, I'm guilty of not coming around in a while, BUT I SWEAR I'VE KEPT UP ON THE MAINTENANCE OF MY CTD!



Looks like I have some reading to do.



MaX
 
The 100 pin ECM is the real Cummins ECM that is used in most if not all other aplications the 5. 9 is used in. Dodge in their infite wisdom decided to delete all the fuctionality of the real Cummins and use a 50 pin ECM. Maybe we should all start buying Freightliners instead of Dodges.
 
I REALLY hate to bring more to this table, but here I go. If the 50 pin connector is for our truck only, the harness must be for our trucks only also. Why is the pto wire in there if the ecm and everybody else under the hood doesn't know what to do with it?
 
The PTO wire is on Dodge gas engine as well not just the Diesel. From what I have gotten from Star and the service manual it is not used to set PTO speed it is only used to prevent setting codes while using a PTO. The service manual gives more info on the gas engine pto wire but it is still very little info they don't say what codes are prevented from being set. The descrption of the diesel pto they don't even tell you what kind of signal that the ECM is suppoused to see when the PTO is engauged.



Has anyone tried sending a multiplexed signal 5 volt signal ect to the PTO wire? Has anyone looked with a DRB for a sensor reading for PTO? If so is it listed under inputs and outputs or under sensor readings?



I have thought of another use of the PTO wire if all it does is prevent codes from being set. If you add a bomb that may set a code also hook up the PTO wire possibly keeping it from setting the code.
 
Kris had a box pinned out, and in working order, but I havn't heard or seen from him in a LONG time now. I'll have to look to see if I can find the old pin-out for it.



Kris was a heck of a guy. :)







Andrew
 
Originally posted by kaffine krazed

...

I have thought of another use of the PTO wire if all it does is prevent codes from being set. If you add a bomb that may set a code also hook up the PTO wire possibly keeping it from setting the code.



Sounds interesting.
 
One more tip... add a 5 volt regulator inline with the potentiometer. If you don't, engine rpm will fluctuate with alternator load (i. e. using a winch, grid heaters, big linear on a cb)



Just a heads up
 
Looks nice and straightforward, Kris. Just a couple questions, if you would, sir.



First, the connectors--I'm assuming that the top is toward the TPS, and the bottom is the wiring harness back to the ECM?.



Second, general functionality--when we throw the actuating switch, it's supposed to energize a relay that feeds power to the potentiometer, closes R1 (connecting pins 1 & 2), opens R2 (which opens pin 6--I take it these two actions are the idle 'check switches', or whathaveyou), and toggles R3 (disconnecting pin 3 from the TPS, and connecting it to the potentiometer).



Very nicely laid-out, IMO.



Now, I wonder if one could find just the plug/part-of-wiring-harness that goes into the TPS--make the install neater, and all.



Oh, and isn't there some difference in the TPS/APPS that changed in '99 or so?



I don't think it'll get all that cold here in Tampa Bay, but I'd like something to keep the revs up so the A/C can run for a while if me/the wife have to run into the store, so the other doesn't spontaneously combust. After reading about the diesel washing the oil off the cylinder walls during extended idling, I'm hesitant to run it more than ten minutes or so.



--Ty
 
tbrudder... you're dead on! That's what happens. Not sure if the APPS changed or not... anyone have a 99 tech manual? If so, PM me the APPS pin-out numbers and functions and I'll compare them.



You can get connectors, but I don't remember the web site off hand... I'll have to look it up again. I just soldered mine in place.



I'll be happy to answer any more questions! I've been running this box since last january without any problems. not bad for $25 at RadioShack :D
 
Not bad, man. $25 in Electrode Hut parts beats $250, any day.



Of course, I once spent about $25 back in high school making a cable to connect my graphing calculator to my PC, so that I could put Tetris and other stuff on it.



Found out a couple weeks later that TI had dropped their prices for a cable from $70 to $10 or so--some friends gave me hell for that. :rolleyes:



(Of course, their factory-built cables didn't have the hard-core aspect mine did... )



--Ty
 
I am thinking of stopping and getting the parts to build this so I have it before winter. I would also use it to raise RPM when using a PTO hydraulic pump (aprox. 1500 RPM). I think that speed above 1200 or 1500 will set codes, if the truck is not in motion.



I think that maybe one more item could be added to the box. . A wire going to the PTO wire that originally started this thread. This would prevent the codes.



I have 2 questions:

1) Does this sound like it make s sense?



2) Has anybody confirmed the signal for the PTO wire? (sourcing or sinking, and what voltage?)



Thanks,

Mike Schevey
 
Mike,

I tested my 2001. 5 yesterday. I attached my OBD-II scan tool (Alex Peper's) and looked at the data. There is a PTO Status line. With no connection to the PTO (orange) wire, the PTO Status line indicated OFF. I applied +12V to the PTO wire through a 150 Ohm resistor and checked the PTO Status line, it was still OFF. Next I grounded the PTO wire through the same 150 Ohm resistor and the PTO Status went to ON. For our trucks it appears that GROUND is what activates the PTO Status.

While I was playing, I tried every combination of cruise control (electronic) settings I could think of. NOTHING would change the idle speed on my truck.



Good luck!



Mick
 
You should use +5 volts that comes from the the APPS and not +12 or else you can damage your ECM. If you choose to add a regulator instead, the +5 should also have an RC or LC filter with diode protection and proper decoupling caps.
 
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