check engine during test drive - worry ?

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Two questions for 4th gen folks... Fuel heater and 68 RFE re-flash

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Hello all, new to the 4th Gen having always owned older trucks. I finally feel it is ok to get a ram diesel with a auto transmission :D(Aisin only for me) , and found a 2014,SRW 3500 mega cab Laramie, exactly like what I want and can get it for $56,000 out the door; tax title and all 56K seems like a pretty unbeatable price ? BUT when going on my test drive I noticed a check engine light, not sure if it was always on or came on while driving :I was still trying to get comfortable with the truck and didn't look close. The truck drove very well and seemed to have the slight turbo lag but no dead pedal that I read about. I sweat a truck that cant roll up the first 50 miles without a check engine light. Being mechanical and owning many other rams, I know that many times a check engine is nothing , yet this really bugs the crap out of me ! I am near closing this deal but just have this uneasy feeling , not just the "my wallet just got super skinny" feeling , but the "is it a good truck" feeling ? What would you guys think ? I also wanted to ask a few newbie 4th gen questions here about setting up the turbo timer and idle step. Can I have the dealer add in a turbo time to the shut down ? And can they also have a idle step up for time when we road trip and want to let the truck idle for longer periods of time ?
Hope to join the 4th gen crowd soon ! thank you in advance for any advice !
 
Have them scan it and see what code(s) it set. Ten make a decision from an informed point of view. Could be a very minor concern.
 
56K out the door is exactly what I paid for my 11 HO Longhorn dually fully loaded on Labor Day 2011. I think you can do better! Contact Dave Smith Motors in Kellog, ID for a price check.
 
Ask the salesperson if the ECM module has all the software updates. The dealer didn't do that on my 2013 Tradesman, and as a result the Check engine light went on immediately after it was delivered. I think it had to do with tweaking the programming on the new DEF system?

My CEL has turned on 3 times in 8000 miles. You can't clear the CEL by disconnecting the batteries. In fact my radio didn't even loose its presets by disconnecting the batteries. I read the code reader I have. Turns out nothing was wrong. If the truck hiccups, the CEL turns on because it is too sensitive.

It will turn on with one bad sensor reading even if there is no lasting problem. Just one sensor has to read something out of
range.

Have them tell you what is wrong before closing the deal.
if the code reader says nothing, the truck had a hiccup.
 
The dealer should make the truck ready before pick up including hooking up to Chrysler's computer system and updating any new flashes that are out there. My dealer does this any time I stop in. This last visit for inspection there was a new flash I'm not sure what for but my MPG's have gotten better. My only complaint is now my Bluetooth does not work. It see's and finds my phone but will not connect to it.
I'd have the dealer scan the truck see what the code came up. Could be nothing. As for the turbo cool down timer you don't need it as the Gen 4 trucks turbo is water cooled. Unless your towing really hard by the time you idle through the rest stop thing will have cooled down to safe levels.
 
I had the cool down timer activated, then two days later had it deactivated since it was a useless pain in the butt. It would shut off if you are sitting at a set of lights or rail crossing for to long etc. also, the ignition stays on even though the engine is off, so you can't walk away and let it just shut down in the time frame that you had them set it for, you have to go turn the ignition off. Kind of stupid if you ask me. I think it is just in the software so that when the tree huggers "left lickers" get there way the government will mandate that the dealers activate it for enforcing there anti-idle laws!!
As for the idle up, turn on the cruise and hit the accel button to raise and the decel button to slow it down and hit the brake to cancel it.
 
I had 850 miles on my new 2014 2500 ST when my Check Engine Light came on. I went to a Dodge dealership who downloaded the code (Ammonia Sensor within the DEF System) The tech checked for TSB's and found that my truck already needed a update in the ECM Computer for this code. After the update was completed, the Engine light went bye bye.
I don't know why dealerships don't check for updates before selling a vehicle.
 
At too many dealerships, the sales staff don't talk to the service staff. I bought mine off of a lot in NC and had it delivered to Miami, FL.

I wanted a manual transmission. There was only a 3500 with manual that I test drove within100 miles.

Wife vetoed the DRW. So I bought from a dealer willing to work with someone 1000 miles away.
but they didn't update the ECM.
 
The only thing they are asked to do by the factory is to check for recalls and RRT's before delivery. If they don't do those they get their prep payment charged back.
 
I wish I had known that. After I had my vehicle 6 months, it was so behind on RRT's (RRT's was what I was talking about above), it took over an hour to update the truck. And I have just a Tradesman. Nothing fancy.
 
Not sure what makes people think it is so much better than the 68RFE. I'm on my third 68RFE without a problem... Guess it is a bragging rights thing.

Really ? Bragging rights thing ? Huh-OK. My reason was (and I may be incorrect) that it was a better transmission and that it was rated for more engine output there for you get the higher output motor right from the factory. When looking at stats I believe it is correct that the 68RFE gets a detuned motor. I read and have heard of people who have had to replace their automatics over the years until the Aisin. Some people; maybe even many people have gone to GM just for the Allison.
But thank you for answering my questions - :confused:
 
Not sure what makes people think it is so much better than the 68RFE. I'm on my third 68RFE without a problem... Guess it is a bragging rights thing.

The bigger question is why so many of the 68rfe guys get so butt hurt because somebody buys or wants to buy an aisin trans???:-laf I myself can't figure out why a black truck is better than white truck, I have had three three white trucks without any problems......:confused::D

Sam
 
The bigger question is why so many of the 68rfe guys get so butt hurt because somebody buys or wants to buy an aisin trans???:-laf I myself can't figure out why a black truck is better than white truck, I have had three three white trucks without any problems......:confused::D

Sam
He said "butt hurt" :-laf :-laf :-laf

The 68RFE is a great transmission. After 74k miles of combined driving (42k on a '13 and 32k on a '14) I can safely & honestly state the Aisin is the better of the two. :D
 
On the 07.5 that I had it had 222,000km's on it and chipped for 210,000 of it that put me at about the 400hp and 730 ftlb range and half those Km's were towing at about 24,500# range and I did nothing to the guts of the 68 RFE while I had it. Just swapped a valve body due to a cross valve leakage. It was great.
 
Well they said it was a bad battery showing low voltage , they installed a new battery and good to go. If I could trust that's accurate I sure don't see any reason it would have bigger issues ?
 
They installed "a" new battery? they should be changed in pairs, but in the case that these are new, maybe only the one was defective which would be fine to only do one battery in my opinion. I have a Journey that has done this twice in three years due to a low battery that makes it throw a code saying that the AWD requires service!?!?!? but didn't. The truck is new and has the warrantee, I personally wouldn't be worried about it.
 
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