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Check Engine Light... Bad Turbo Actuator!

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Beating the "actuator" dead horse.

heater cable locaked

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My truck is a 2013 with 93K miles. Should I replace the entire turbo assembly? I can buy a complete turbo with a calibrated actuator for about $2K. The actuator alone is nearly $700 and then I'll have to have it calibrated.

What's some thoughts on this?

Thanks
 
Ask greg_a. He did the same thing on his 18 dually.

It was just a suggestion if your going to spend that cash why not upgrade a to a little better turbo that's supposed to have better spool manners and dp. It's also rated as a drop in direct replacement turbo with no tuning needed. That's what I was told when I called and asked about it before I changed he's my turbo.
 
Unless you plan on additional changes ( like Studs, Tuning , intake, Exhaust ,Etc ) stay factory, there's a speed sensor that regulates the Turbo.

Dose city have the Half-Shell for 2013+
 
Unless you plan on additional changes ( like Studs, Tuning , intake, Exhaust ,Etc ) stay factory, there's a speed sensor that regulates the Turbo.

Dose city have the Half-Shell for 2013+
No city has a complete kit available for the 13’s and newer. They say it’s a direct replacement and that it’s plug and play. I’ll know late tonight if it is. My screw up was not ordering a Cast Y pipe in time for this job. Anyone have one in the Long Island Ny area that I can pick up tonight?
 
I have a question for those having these turbo actuator problems. Do you use the exhaust brake all or most of the time?
 
I used mine all the time day night rain snow didn't matter. Still stopped working after 137k. My likely problem was a didn't tow often to really "work" the turbo.

Hooked a loaded trailer to it and drive it that way for a week, worked just fine while loaded. Soon as I unloaded it stopped working again so I made the swap. Just my experience
 
I use the E brake all the time also. Though I’ve noticed that it has been less effective lately. And when the truck threw the CEL lamp it stopped working all together until everything warmed up then it started working again and the CEL lamp went out. The service Tec at City Diesel said that was all the warning signs of a failing actuator.
 
Some trucks have old programing, The Turbo operation has been updated several times Since 2013, the last Update,, I don't have the Part# for it allows the Actuator to cycle at idle. Some aftermarket turbos will trigger over speed codes.

I've have several professional haulers pulling heavy and hard with the 6.7, some have had several Turbo failures, the 2Gen swap seem to have exceeded them all in longevity, but that's a lot hardware and tuning changes $$$$$ ( lose the TB the down side)
 
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Some trucks have old programing, The Turbo operation has been updated several times Since 2013, the last Update,, I don't have the Part# for it allows the Actuator to cycle at idle.

That's a good point to say it again - people get out and get your ECM updates done, they are important!
 
I'll check mine with AlfaOBD this weekend and maybe someone can compare with known newer software.

I'll also watch Actuator and see what it does at idle, can't remember off top of my head.
 
O I forgot to add the MIC II their is a cutoff on the Serial Number MUST be Above, many have purchased the Mic II at low cost just to find out it will not work its below the cutoff.

If memory serve Me on 2013-14 March 2018 was the latest release for everything TCM/PCM. but have not check lately, I will be updating All My vehicles in NOV, Its the time of the years I have free time. Make sure you Use the Alfa to do Stationary De-soot at lease once a year, 2-3 Times per Year should burn all the ash out. it will also clean the turbo.
 
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