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Check Engine Light Nightmare on 2006

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Changed fuel filter now I get check engine light

I need a clutch. But wich one?

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Hey Guys. I am at a total loss in resolving this issue.



I am in the process of installing a BD X-Monitor (Pyro Temp. / Boost/Trans. Temp. ) system. I installed the pyro. post turbo into the elbow pipe. I installed the boost pick up tube into the forward inboard manifold bolt hole. I tapped into the cigar lighter for key on power.



I hooked up these two functions, but decided to wait to hook up the trans. temp function using a Mag-Hytec pan and 1/8 ptap sender instead of tapping into the ECM wiring as BD instructs. So, I am currently only monotoring Pyro and Boost. I programmed the readout several times to be sure this was done correctly.



My problem is that I now have a brightly lit check engine light staring back at me. I have tried to read the fault codes using the 3 key on system, the 3 acc key system, the odometer/trip meter system etc. , etc. ,etc. I have tried all of my different ignition keys to no avail. I have disconnected the batteries at least three times to try and extinguish the thing. The truck starts and runs fine. I do hear an air noise from under the dash when accelerating, but found the rubber hoses at the BD box to be intact.



I prefer not to go to the dealer to determine the cause of this issue. You guys probably have more collective knowledge than them anyway. How do I get this thing to turn off??. . Better still, what do I have to do and/buy to read the codes and reset the MIL myself???



Also, is the rushing air sound from the BD setup normal??



My truck is stock except for this gauge setup. I would like to follow through with the Mag-Hytec pan, but I am afraid I may ultimately be forced to go to the dealer for this issue and face unfounded warranty cancellation arguments.



Well what advice can you provide??

Thanks in advance, Chuck

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2006 Laramie QC SB 4x4 48re 4. 10axle Inferno Red (3,600 miles so far)

2001 Cardinal 28ft. fiver

1969 Charger RT SE 440 Torqueflite, 3. 23 suregrip
 
well, I'm surely no expert as I'm pretty new myself. I've done the installation you're talking about though. Not for a BD but, individual gauges.



I seems to me that you may have a leak in the boost tube. If you can, try taking the tube off the box and hold your thumb over it while driving. If you can still hear the air you may have a crack in the tube somewhere. That could be a reason for the check engine light... . you may be losing boost pressure.



You should have gotten a code with the key trick. That would really help to narrow down the source. You can post it here and I'm sure many will let you know what it means.



The check light will go out after either 3 starts or up to 9 starts from what I here. If the light is flashing, that means you have a real problem and shouldn't drive it until the problem is solved.



hope that helps. I know what you mean about not wanting to go to the dealer!
 
The light will go out on its own if the problem is repaired but the code will stay in memory till it is cleared by a scanner.



Bob
 
I have the X-Monitor. There is no air rushing sound from mine. If it's coming from under the dash you may have a defective control box that's leaking air. Do you get a normal boost reading while you drive? I don't know whether or not that would give you a check engine light but the air sound is not normal for sure.
 
Bob4x4 said:
The light will go out on its own if the problem is repaired but the code will stay in memory till it is cleared by a scanner.



Bob



Is that true for all codes? I've gotten the 0336 code every once in a while with my TST, but it will clear itself after a while. Not sure how long it took, but it does go away on its own.



Randy
 
Thanks for the info. I get what appears to be a normal boost reading (up to 23lbs on hard accel. )



I am going to try a couple of things. I am going to pull the line off the X box and plug it, then listen for air sounds on acceleration. If I still hear air, I will then replace the boost (drilled) bolt with the original. If I dont hear air with the line plugged, I can only believe the X-Monitor box is leaking.



I will report back when this is done.



BTW, I would still like to know which hand held, reasonably priced OBD device you guys are using on 2006 CTDs to read faults and clear MIL lights and messages. I'm fairly good with wrenches etc. , but I need to get my act into the 21st. century.



Thanks again,

Chuck
 
23 pounds seems a little low, should see 28-30 on hard acceleration with the X-Monitor. That's what I see on mine and it's stock.
 
RDyson said:
Is that true for all codes? I've gotten the 0336 code every once in a while with my TST, but it will clear itself after a while. Not sure how long it took, but it does go away on its own.



Randy





Yes true for all codes.



Also all 600/610 motors should be capable of low to mid 30 psi boost stock on a hard pull.



Bob
 
If the boost pressure of 23lbs seems low for a stock truck, which mine is, that seems to lend credence to the leaking line and/or X-monitor control box theory.



I am planning on checking this out tomorrow. I will report back then.



Thanks, Chuck
 
Well, I checked out the X-Monitor tubing and box, but eliminating that did not turn out my CEL. Disconnected the battery again for 20min. That did not turn out my CEL either.



I finally bought a scanner and got the codes: P0191 Fuel Rail Sensor, and P0111 IAT Sensor. I erased the codes and was able to turn off my CEL. Can anyone tell me what these codes mean and if I should take further action?? BTW, I did just change my Fuel filter before all of this happened.



Thanks, Chuck
 
CTRice said:
Well, I checked out the X-Monitor tubing and box, but eliminating that did not turn out my CEL. Disconnected the battery again for 20min. That did not turn out my CEL either.



I finally bought a scanner and got the codes: P0191 Fuel Rail Sensor, and P0111 IAT Sensor. I erased the codes and was able to turn off my CEL. Can anyone tell me what these codes mean and if I should take further action?? BTW, I did just change my Fuel filter before all of this happened.



Thanks, Chuck



Did these codes come back after driving it after turning them off and removing or plugging the boot bolt?



One thing i would check is all the connectors around the fuel filter housing since you just changed the filter maybe you bumped a connector and it's loose on a sensor or barly on it, maybe you broke a wire too. Also check all the connectors around the rail because you were in that area when you installed the boost bolt, you could of bumped a sensor on the rail.



Actually i would undo every sensor in that area and look at the terminals, give a slight tug to the wires and plug them all back in.



I looked at a wiring schematic for an 05 and the fuel rail pressure sensor and the air intake temp/boost pressure sensor get a 5 volt reference signal from the same splice. So this could also have something to do with it, but i think if their was something wrong with this circuit it probably wouldn't even run because power goes to the crank and cam sensors also.



As for the low boost issue, if these codes were present while you were testing it out, maybe the ecm was defueling as then you might not reach full boost. Or your monitor was leaking boost but that shouldn't account for the rail pressure code.
 
Thanks for the input. I have not yet taken the truck out for a test drive, so I don't know if the codes and/or MIL light will return. I will however, take your advice and check the connectors near the fuel rail and filter.



I am also planning on replumbing the boost tube using compression fittings instead of the push-in fittings supplied with the X-Monitor. That should rule out the tubing and fittings as the cause of the rushing air sound.

Thanks,

Chuck
 
Well, I took a test drive and still had a CEL lit. Disconnected the batteries overnight and still had the light on. Finally, I bought an Actron 9145 scanner and found two codes present. P0191 (fuel rail pressure sensor) and P0111 (IAT sensor). I erased the codes and the light went out. I have driven the truck several times and the CEL has remained off.



I replumbed the control box end of the boost tube and eliminated the rushing air sound. Almost happy again.



Noticed a slight engine rattle noise on easy acceleration. This sounds like what a gasser engine would have for a light spark knock. This may have been present before all of this but I can't remember. Guess I am becoming PARANOID by all of the horror stories I've read opn this website. Is this a normal sound for a 2006 CTD??????



Thanks,

Chuck

_____________________________________________________________________

2006 Laramie 3500 QC SB 4x4 48re

2001 Cardinal 28ft. fiver

1969 Charger RT/SE 440 Torqueflite
 
Engine rattle is normal, sounds like mild ping on a gasser. Been discussed here many times before. Earlier trucks were so noisy you didn't hear all the little sounds that you can hear now on the common rail.
 
Dieselnerd,



Thanks for the insight. I am leaving for a 4,000 mile trip with fiver in tow soon and was starting to become very apprehensive about leaving home.



Its really great to have experienced people like yourself and other members of the TDR as resources for technical questions. I have learned much more than I thought I would.



Thanks Again,

Chuck

_______________________________________________________________________

2006 Laramie 3500 QC SB 4x4 48re Inferno Red 3,600 miles so far.

2001 Cardinal 28ft Fiver

1969 Charger RT/SE 440 Torqueflite
 
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