Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) "Check Gages" Zero oil pressure??

[tschwab]

Just returned from a camping vacation with the 5vr in tow. Coming off the interstate at about 65mph/2100-2200 rpm and then coasting onto the exit for the rest area (rpm's down to 700-800) the "check gages" light and warning chime come on, my oil pressure gage is reading 0 pressure.



I popped the trans into neutral and the rpm's raised a little and the warning chime and light went off and pressure began to build. This happened twice on this trip and has nevered happened before since this truck was new.



Oil level is fine, outside temp was between 90-100 degrees, oil viscosity is 15-40 with only about 1,000 miles on this change.



Could it be a combination of running hard at 2200 rpm's and letting off quickly once on the off ramp and the high outside temps? Did not encounter this problem when exiting for other exits, only when running hard then backing off quickly when taking a quick exit for a rest area.



Is my oil pump beginning to fail? If so, is this something that would be covered under the 7 year/100K?



Any other ideas or thoughts on why or what is happening here? Thanks - Terry

 

[illflem]

The problem is more than likely your oil pressure sender or the wiring to it, fairly common. If you truely lose oil pressure for more than 10 seconds the change in your engine sound will scare the heck out of you. OEM senders are the best, many have reported regular auto parts senders as being short lived. Cummins has the best price.



BTW, if you ever want to sell your truck I have a friend looking for exactly what you have.

 

[martins]

I have the same problem with my truck. Can anyone give me a Cummins part number? Called Cummins, they said it was a Dodge part. The stealer wants $180 for just the sending unit.

 

[jimk]

oil pressure

what about a manual gauge? I like a manual gauge if given the choice. Just use a good hose, I like to use a steel braided hose and not the plastic that comes in the kit.

lol Jimk

 

[dfirlik]

This also happened to me a couple of months ago, just as I was coasting to a stop at the end of an off ramp. I had been running about 60 MPH for 45 minutes to an hour (empty truck) prior to exiting the freeway. It has not happened again since. I have been a little more mindful of the oil pressure since then and have noticed the oil pressure gauge take about 3-4 seconds to begin to move after starting and when it does move it jumps up. Almost like the guage is sticking at the low end. No abnormal noises with any of these events.



Don (MI)

 

[T. Baker]

On my engine conversion project I pulled off the stock oil pressure sender to install the one off my scout. When I put the wrench on the dodge one it broke in half! It was made out of plastic and would have dumped all the engine oil! The scout one is made out of steel. I was glad to get rid of that plastic sender!!

 

[CumminsPower98]

Sender

My '98 12 valve did this same sort of thing so I replaced the sender for $53. 42 from my local Carquest. I know there are cheaper ones out there too. Don't go to the stealer for this part whatever you do.

 

[TPCDrafting]

I had the same problem. Had this TSB done and no problems since. It states that changing the sender alone wont fix it, but if some of you got away with that, I applaud you. I paid much more than you did.



http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/tsb/1999/08-22-99.htm



check it out.



BTW, mine would happen in stop and go traffic and when pulling in my driveway which is rough and bouncy, but only on occasion and I couldn't duplicate it on purpose. Good luck. Tim

 

[BFC]

Check out this thread, the cummins # is in it. Also I wouldn't let the stealer reflash the truck, it just tell the ECM to ignore faulty signals from the sender and leave the gauge needle on 60. Pretty much end up with a useless guage. DC says replacing the sender won't fix the problem(I read the TSB too), I'll argue that one. Buy it at Cummins and it will fix the problem, it did for me.



Glenn



http://216.235.147.117/forums/showthread.php?threadid=49574&highlight=oil+pressure+sender

 

[RBrunson]

NAPA sending unit

I purchased my sending unit from NAPA part #OP6670 for about #35. 00. Don't forget that you need a special deep socket in order to change it. My 96 uses a 1-1/8" the 98 may be different. If it is the same, the part # is KD3458.

 

[The patriot]

Mine has been doing this for a while. When I lug it down to say... . 500 rpm like when I'm starting from a red light, the gauge goes to 0 and the bonger sounds.

I only have this happen on very hot days, when the truck is well warmed up.

This leads me to believe that the gauge will go to 0 and sound the alarm when the pressure drops below a pre set poundage.

I notice that when the press builds back up, it will jump from 0 to say 40 at idle, just as if there is no in between.

JM. 02

Eric



BTW Where is the sender located anyway?

 

[T. Baker]

It's in a real convienient spot. Under the back end of the fuel pump! Don't bump it or even look at it too funny, it might break or worse yet get a crack and dump your oil in the middle of the night in the middle of no where!

 

[T. Baker]

IMO everyone would be safer with a pipe plug in that hole than a crappy piece of plastic exposed to constant heat and presure on the one of the most critical systems on the truck. I say get a mechanical guage. Sorry about the rave but I think its really bad to take a high quality engine and kill it by putting the cheapest piece of plastic you can make to hold the engine oil in!

 

[mstimac]

Went thru the same fun. The OP6670 is a good number for the '96 but the electrical connector is different on the '98 and is Echlin OP6189 for $23.

 

[Matt42]

What years does the problem affect?

Are the oil pressure fright or the plastic sender a problem for years prior to 1998?