Checking lift pump pressure??

[Challenger-II]

O. k... ... After reading about all the failing lift pumps, I want to check mine. I understand it it is the rear inlet port on top of the filter. Any special type gauge to use and what is the npt port size I need to screw into? What is normal pressure at idle and what should it not drop below when I rev it? Thanks for any help!!

 

[joetentpeg]

Yeah, I want to know too.

------------------
Joe

98. 5 2500 QC SLT SWB 5sp. KN Rhino Lining Bilsteins Velvet Rides 295/75R16 BFG ATs on MT Classics.

 

[Challenger-II]

How about it guys???? A little help to us who are in the dark!!

Thanks in advance to those who reply

 

[DUNE RACER]

Before drilling my banjo bolts out I would see about 10-11 at idle, 6-8 cruising, and as low as 2-3 at WOT.
Try a search on lift pumps, you will gets lots of info.
------------------
2001 black 4X4 dually, 6 speed, all the factory goodies plus... SPA's on the pillar, billet grill, lighted running boards, lund visor, rhino liner,
aluminum rail caps, zerked tierod ends, dynomax muffler, custom bug screen, big smile on owners face.

[This message has been edited by DUNE RACER (edited 04-12-2001). ]

 

[csutton7]

I wanna say 1/8" npt, but I could be wrong--I'd do a search as Dune Racer said to be sure--- on 99's you can remove one of the two caps(one closest to the front of truck is after(post) filter and the one closest to the firewall is before(pre) filter) and you can screw in a sending unit there ----chris

 

[Mopar-muscle]

pre 2000 trucks are 1/8 npt on the ports on top of the filter cannister as csutton described , 2000 and newer use a schrader valve which is the same as a -4AN , but it has a valve much like that in a tire valve stem that is released when you have the proper type adaptor that screws on . if you don't have the proper adaptor then you need to remove the valve core , same tool as a tire valve stem core remover and then screw your -4 to 1/8 npt adaptor over it and connect the gauge , if you do it at the injection pump , removing that core will drain the pump and you'll need to bleed it to get it running .

i have seen an aftermarket test gauge setup with the adaptor that will allow you not to have to pull the valve core , but its pricey , the tool from miller that the factory uses is fairly cheap , don't have it handy to post the number but i will get it if people want to buy that gauge .

should see above 10 psi idle , more like 12-13 ... and would be nice to see 10 while cruising , but you won't , and nice to see more than 6 WOT , but you won't , depending on BOMBs installed and if you have the factory pump or a replacement .

 

[DBuchheit]

Originally posted by Mopar-muscle:
ramboat , what do you have for a pump and what were you using for a gauge ??? thats sounds like under-valved type pressure ??? seems to high to me .

My truck, including lift pump is stock. The gauge is a standard fuel pressure test gauge. It's proven to be accurate in other test. Don't remember the brand.

------------------
2001. 5 Intense Blue 2500 QC, SLT, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x2 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate, Trailer Tow Group, Sliding Rear Window, Line-X over the rail, Leer Cab Height Topper.

 

[LDusky]

Home Depot has a 15lb gauge attached to a brass manifold for pressure testing natural gas lines. Less than $10, just remove the gauge from the brass manifold and with a couple of fittings and some Tygon tubing you are in business.

 

[k_yeend]

13-14 at idel, 12 cruising, 9 at 30-33 lbs of boost. 1/8 npt barb fitting to your inlet port.

------------------
1999 2500 Quad cab 4x4 auto,Forest Green Sport,Banks Stinger-Plus,pyro/boost/fuel pressure gauges,Smittybilt nerf bars,Smittbilt Outland grill and brush guard,Tuff Country leveling kit with SX 8000 shocks.

 

[DBuchheit]

Originally posted by Mopar-muscle:
pre 2000 trucks are 1/8 npt on the ports on top of the filter cannister as csutton described , 2000 and newer use a schrader valve which is the same as a -4AN , but it has a valve much like that in a tire valve stem that is released when you have the proper type adaptor that screws on . if you don't have the proper adaptor then you need to remove the valve core , same tool as a tire valve stem core remover and then screw your -4 to 1/8 npt adaptor over it and connect the gauge , if you do it at the injection pump , removing that core will drain the pump and you'll need to bleed it to get it running .

i have seen an aftermarket test gauge setup with the adaptor that will allow you not to have to pull the valve core , but its pricey , the tool from miller that the factory uses is fairly cheap , don't have it handy to post the number but i will get it if people want to buy that gauge .

should see above 10 psi idle , more like 12-13 ... and would be nice to see 10 while cruising , but you won't , and nice to see more than 6 WOT , but you won't , depending on BOMBs installed and if you have the factory pump or a replacement .

I checked mine for the first time the other day. My pressure was 24 PSI at Idle.

------------------
2001. 5 Intense Blue 2500 QC, SLT, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x2 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate, Trailer Tow Group, Sliding Rear Window, Line-X over the rail, Leer Cab Height Topper.

 

[Mopar-muscle]

ramboat , what do you have for a pump and what were you using for a gauge ??? thats sounds like under-valved type pressure ??? seems to high to me .