Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) cheep power from a 160

[LFowler]

what is the most cost efative way to mack power i dont need a drag truck and i pull a traler is the bank kit the way to go iv got a 95 auto 160:{

 

[tgrfan2]

#6 plate has worked for me for 130K miles now with truck at 241K. I pulled a 8-9K TT with it before getting the fiver. I would recommend a 3K GSK and BHAF(air filter) also. Some like the #10 with the GSK better. You need gauges and to check your transmission's internal pressure. The #6 would slip my 98 47re(116K) under heavy load and boost before the DTT.
So far I haven't seen it slip the 95 which doesn't make nearly as much power or tow as heavy.
The 95 has smoked a number of 7. 3 PSDs, but it takes the 98 to handle the D/As and 6. 0/6. 4s that aren't on a tow truck!

 

[dpuckett]

I'd stay away from Banks- too little for the cash output. Now that I have donned my Kevlar britches, I'll explain myself.



Banks doesnt make a bad product, but the bang for the buck just isnt there when compared to other options. I'd install a TST plate of some variety- a 5 or 6- and the boost elbow to go with it. Definitely install some gauges if you dont have them already. Go for a BHAF or a reuseable filter of your choice (i've had bad luck with K&N; cant comment personally on others, though the AFE PG7 would be my choice for the next one). Installation of a free flowing exhaust (remove cat, and muffler if noise isnt an issue) can help lower EGT. If you get the parts individually, you will be at about half what Banks wants for their stuff, and at equal or higher HP/torque output.



Daniel

 

[Extreme1]

Unfortunatley since the trans is stock, a plate (I recommend a #5), a set of injectors (used 215's can be had cheap) and a Amsoil air filter (if you don't mind a cleanable unit) plus the required 3k GSK aren't going to make much difference since the converters on these trucks are sooooo looooose.



Whan I installed the plate it made NO DIFFERENCE. Then I installed a Goerend converter and it made a HUGE difference. Next was a set of used 215's (as much of an improvement as the converter), then the 3k GSK so it pulled instead of revving. The GSK will help overcome the converter problem. Stock, the engine in a '94 and '95 will defuel before it stalls the converter.



My recommendation:



3k GSK This will transform how the truck works when working hard.



Different torque convertor and valve body.



TST Plate (call them for a recommendation, it will depend on how big your trailer is and what altitude you pull it at) If you don't buy a plate from them and get one off eBay, you might end up with a plate someone took to a bench grinder. TST plates are machined from a solid piece of steel, Bosch plates are two pieces attached together.



215 Injectors.

 

[tgrfan2]

If a plate didn't make any difference your old TC must not have been locking up! Granted spending $4-6K on a transmission helps tremendously but I have gotten servicable towing and much more towing capacity out of my 95 for 130K without a transmission upgrade.
My truck would barely make 80 mph when I bought it and I thought the transmission was bad until I took it to a transmission shop. After the plate it ran to 105 before I backed off and pulled our 8K TT 80mph where 60-65 was tops before. Big difference in my book.

 

[SSage]

EGT guage. Boost and transmission temp is good to have also.

TST # 6 fuel plate

3K GSK

Have you tabbed the KDP?



BHAF is just a large air filter put in place of the stock air cleaner box.

I got my plate from TST with the video for my first go around. City Diesel is another vendor too. Geno's sold me my ultra light guages.



That will give you a 60 hp up grade and it will be a totally new feeling while

driving the truck if its bone stock.

 

[Bart]

#6 plate has worked for me for 130K miles now with truck at 241K. I pulled a 8-9K TT with it before getting the fiver. I would recommend a 3K GSK and BHAF(air filter) also. Some like the #10 with the GSK better. You need gauges and to check your transmission's internal pressure. The #6 would slip my 98 47re(116K) under heavy load and boost before the DTT.

So far I haven't seen it slip the 95 which doesn't make nearly as much power or tow as heavy.

The 95 has smoked a number of 7. 3 PSDs, but it takes the 98 to handle the D/As and 6. 0/6. 4s that aren't on a tow truck!

Morning fgrfan, couple questions for you if I may highjack this thread for a moment. Where'd you get your GSK (was it worth it?) and like you I have a #6 fpp. Where is yours positioned and how many clicks do you have on the star wheel?

Thanks

 

[tgrfan2]

I got mine through my mechanic who got it from TST. He did the 3K GSK and KDP at the same time on my 98. Both products are definitely worth it. He had the engine out of his 97 to fix the damage his KDP did while he was fixing mine! I haven't done a GSK on my 95. I feel certain having upgraded the transmission makes the GSK work better so I can't say how it would perform with a stock transmission.
I set the #6 in the stock position. My 98 was very strong stock and I haven't seen any need to shift the plate forward. As for the clicks on the wheel, I never asked and he probably wouldn't remember. It blows a little smoke for sure on LSD, but on B20 it is much less noticeable.
In fact my wife "smoked" a D/A last week on Saluda mountain and she said she didn't even have to make it smoke to pass him.

 

[RottenRon]

I've got a 160 pumped auto 95 truck, and I tow heavy. At first towing uphill was a real issue, the transmission would overheat and basically the truck couldn't get out of it's own way. I'm now perfectly happy with the truck, though I would like another 100 hp... who wouldn't. I can now maintain 90 km/h (55 mph) up pretty much any grade. I'd recommend, in this order



Gauges - transmission temp, boost and EGT



3K GSK - this will make a huge difference in how your truck runs, it should be a must do on every 94-95 automatic truck. Really.



#10 plate with boost elbow - this will also make a huge difference



At least a good drop in filter, or one of the many complete replacements would be even better



4in exhaust system



Your transmission will now be slipping the locked up torque converter pretty much at will, time to spend some serious money. There are many options here, which are discussed in very many threads on this site. You can see my signature block for what I did. I'm happy.



Hope this helps a little.



Ron

 

[Mhannink]

well i had a 95 stick so i can tell you what to do engine wise. 3k gsk from peirs diesel $125 custom plate i started by making a ten and then took a grinder to it later to have a 0 look at some profiles learn what does what and play w/ it to get what you want. i wanted all out power so i ground it flate slide it forward and left it at that. next get a 2 dollar c clamp and make your wastegate useless. these thee things will make that motor run like a bat out of hell. doing some timing will help too



as for the transmission a bd pressure lock might help things but i would just anny up and do a valve body and torgue converter

 

[PKemp]

LFowler: Most everyone who has or had a 95/auto/160 realized quickly that when towing it couldn't get out of its own way. When not towing it wasn't much better. You could tweak the star-wheel and play with the timming but you were still on the bottom end of the food chain. Things didn't improve much until the 215 pump came out. It was a dramatic improvement with fuel flow and better injectors.

What can you do? We have a shop full of dodge delivery trucks and service trucks all with diesels, 94's thru 98's all 12 valve. We've experimented with all sorts of parts and combinations and we've come to a few general conclusions that hold up pretty well and offer consistency you can rely on involving the 160/auto or 175/manual combinations.

#1 - Gauges are a must. Boost and EGT as a minimum.

#2 - A #6 or #10 plate. The #6 will cause you to start thinking about a transmission upgrade, the #10 won't right away but will become an eventuality.

#3 - Free flow intake air filter of some kind. The stock filter "sucks".

#4 - Free flow exhaust with minimum restrictions (4" is a good start).

#5 - 3k GSK kit. This will alow your engine to use more of its upper range power rather than defueling too soon.

#6 - Bigger delivery valves in the pump (181's, 191's if possible). The stock dv's are inadequate for any real towing power.

#7 - Set the timing. More fuel means more heat. Advancing the timing (16. 5 to 17 degrees) will decrease EGTs and make that fuel more useable at mid and upper range rpms. You will lose some power on the low rpm end.

*8 - Bigger injectors. 215's , 300's will stay fuel efficient and be less costly than bigger injectors. Fuel is expensive don't just dump it out the exhaust pipe.

*9 - The more fuel you start dumping in the cylinders you will eventually need a bigger turbo to use all this extra fuel and reduce EGTs. Remember: More Fuel = More Heat. More Heat = Bad, Need more air!



Its no more complicated than this. Or you can jump out there and get a 215 pump About $950. 00 rebuilt/exchange and not worry about fighting with the 160 pumps problems.



Hope this helps.