Chevy 93 4x4 Conversion

[DogDiesel]

I have a 12V 5. 9L Cummins setting under my hood in front of a NV4500 and 4 x4 SRW. 1993 Chevy.



Question: I had to raise the right motor mount 2" to put on the AC pump. Now the hood won't close. If I don't need AC, drop the right mount 2" and all is well.

I have been told this is common, that the fix is to install a 2" body lift kit. The kit would rasise the front body, allow the hood to close, would allow more space above the transmission to work there.



Come on... Is there any other way to get that AC pump in there without lifting the body. I kinda like the ride height.



Wayne

 

[britannic]

How about relocating the A/C compressor from the lower passenger side to the top.



There was a picture of a compressor mounted by the side of the inj. pump, driven by an extra pulley wheel mounted to the balancer (wish I could find the picture again - sorry)?

 

[DogDiesel]

New AC Compressor location

I'd love to find a way to mount the AC different.

Raising the body will be my last resort, but I guess 2" is no big deal. ''

Wayne

 

[britannic]

I found the picture, but it's a 24V which doesn't have the honking big pump. However, I spoke with Kenny and Don at AutoWorld in MT and they told me they notch the frame to give clearance for the compressor.

 

[BV]

That's my engine bay in the picture above and it's a 96 12v with p pump.



The AC compressor mounts on a 1/2" steel plate that has a hinge welded on the drivers side so that it can be adjusted. The pulley that drives it is welded to the Cummins fan pulley.



If I can help with other information or pictures - shoot me a pm or email.



Notching the frame is an option if you don't take to much.

 

[britannic]

BV: now that's way cool - very nice job indeed! I just couldn't believe there's a P pump under there - nice.

 

[MikeN]

Has anyone looked at some of the medium duty trucks that used the 5. 9 engines? Ford and Freightliner both used these in some of their trucks. There might be a bracket from these applications that would help in your situation.



I still haven't figured out how to get the compressor mounted on my 4bt Chevy. I decide to plunge ahead and get the thing running without a/c -- I'll come back and figure this out later. Besides, it snowed today here. Don't need ac for a while yet!

 

[DKarvwnaris]

I will be tackling the A/C issue on a 4bt this summer when I actually get the time to put my Suburban in the garage and get it town down.

I finally found a crate auto transmission for it so I am going to go against my better judgement and give in to the wife's request for an auto. She is funny, refused to own an auto car or truck until now. I think she realized she drives mostly in town with it these days and is getting spoiled with it. I personally hate "one foot wonder shifters" but she's willing to accomodate my diesel only fleet requirements for all our cars.



As britannic mentioned above, Kenny at autoworld has templates from previous conversions to help with A/C brackets etc. I don't like trimming the frame personally, but it does work if you use the stock dodge a/c pump. I remember making a bracket that sat on the left side of the engine like the one in pic above, it was a mamoth thing, but it also helped with the vibration tearing it apart over time. Kenny has several mock up engines available to make brackets for any conversion you may be doing, check with him if you really are having trouble with the set up of the A/C.

Kenny at autoworld: 406 727 8915



By the way, Britannic, did Donny act his usual grumpy self on the phone? Kind of belittles folks sometimes, too long working by himself out in the shop I think. Good guy nonetheless.

 

[btanner]

yes there are several options notch the frame use a cowl hood or use one of the generic brackets the cummins used in other applications I posted something about it a couple months ago even had some pictures and part numbers it relocates the compressor on top iof the engine which you need to move the engine down two more inches to get the hood to close. I don't have the pictures anymore (lost everything on the computer last month) but you should be able to search my name and find the post. Hope this helps



ben

 

[GOLIATHGMC]

A/C Compressor Location..

Has anyone looked at some of the medium duty trucks that used the 5. 9 engines? Ford and Freightliner both used these in some of their trucks. There might be a bracket from these applications that would help in your situation.

I have looked into medium duty FL-60 & FL-70 Freightliners as a source for a 6BT, and the ones I have seen have utilized YORK style A/C compressors, mounted on the Drivers side of the engine. I dont believe that the compressors top was higher than the top of the valve covers, but I would have to go back and look again. The rep I spoke to at Cummins about the FL applications told me that the A/C setup was done by Freightliner, so contacting them about bracketry may help you - provided you use that style compressor. Hope this helps a little.

George

 

[DogDiesel]

Notch frame to mount pump - won't work

Won't work on my IFS 4x4 truck.



--I have the pump mounted now, raised the RS engine 2" there is but a small clearance for pump. Hood won't close.

--Cannot notch frame because the RS pitman steering controller would have to be notched away, in effect disappear the top bolt.

--Seems the alternative mount for AC like above or the 2" body lift are the logical and practical choices.

--Attempts to make alternative mount like above pic for AC pump would also not allow hood to close. Maybe somewhere else.

--Body lift may have to happen



Wayne

 

[britannic]

It was the first time I'd spoken with him, since Kenny was out, but Don was very friendly and spent 40 minutes going as much as he could think of that would help me - totally invaluable.



Although the engine mounts were expensive, I believe I've got my value from the technical support and knowledge they have provided. Donny told me to call back if I have any other questions or hit snags during the conversion.

Originally posted by DKarvwnaris





As britannic mentioned above, Kenny at autoworld has templates from previous conversions to help with A/C brackets etc. I don't like trimming the frame personally, but it does work if you use the stock dodge a/c pump. I remember making a bracket that sat on the left side of the engine like the one in pic above, it was a mamoth thing, but it also helped with the vibration tearing it apart over time. Kenny has several mock up engines available to make brackets for any conversion you may be doing, check with him if you really are having trouble with the set up of the A/C.

Kenny at autoworld: 406 727 8915



By the way, Britannic, did Donny act his usual grumpy self on the phone? Kind of belittles folks sometimes, too long working by himself out in the shop I think. Good guy nonetheless.

 

[DogDiesel]

Cab 2" body lift complete. Solved the hood closing problem. Solved also space issue in installing the HUGE WarpSpeed Exhaust system.



Decided not to install the Dodge intercooler, although MP on dieselpage installed one in a chevy. Would have to bugger up truck. No. Will find intercooler solution. Later. Meanwhile it just so happens I have piping and connecters to plumb the Turbo Technology intercooler I ran with the 300HP chevy. For now. Get her running.



At issue is a fan. I have 2 3/4" - 3" space between fan mount and radiator. No fan clutch will fit. Thinking about running a solid fan to mount, no clutch. I use the truck for towing mostly.



I have electric fans from a previous conversion, but unimpressed.



Think full time fan is in order?



Wayne

Days away from trial run... .

 

[Pmaloney]

Wayne-

I just finished my conversion a month or so ago, and some of my "solutions" were 3" body lift and two small notches in frame for lower compressor bolts also I like 24VCHEVY used a Ford powderstroker intercooler and a custum 31x19 aluminum radiator-cooling not an issue empty but towing 30' gooseneck it gets warm I am also running two Derale 12" electric fans (4000 cfm) I would like to know what you do for a fan because the electrics could also be my problem Good luck, the end result is WELL worth the effort Patrick

 

[DogDiesel]

Tested

I now have 90K miles on my conversion. Mostly towing.

I finally used an 18 inch flexolite fan that runs full time. 4:10 gears, and get 16. 5 -18 empty, 14-15 towing light trailers, and generally 11-13 with heavy trailers. Awesome power, still max at 2500 RPM, so no speed demon. I upgraded injectors, so it pulls real well. Torque monster.



One problem: I simply do not have enough intercooler and fan for rocky mountain pulling. On that pull out of Salt Lake east up HWY 80, had to pull over and cool. Towing then a 31" GN enclosed with tractor and car inside, plus stuff. Heavy. Every where else in the US, I cool just fine. Never a problem with smoke, so my first target will be the fan. Likely will go with the Horton EC 450, locating a fan is yet a problem for this model HORTON. Any leads on a fan would be welcomed.



Wayne



As for my AC pump, three bolts are same length, with the other, I used a cut off tool and trimmed the pump AC mount at the bolt hole about half way. You can either use a shorter bolt or none. The nippon Denso pumps have no CORE value, so there is no reason not to alter the pump. Did this 2 years ago, and AC is just fine. So, bottom line, I did not have to buy a top AC mount, did not have to notch the frame. I did put in a 2" cab lift, which I have no regrets NOW.



As for Tachometer, took my Nippon Denso alternator to the local rebuild shop, and he installed an internal regulator, which he called a "spider. " Charges fine for the last two years. Had him also add a 'W" terminal, which I connected to my original tach wire, and tach is 100% accurate. New bearings and regulator, plus W terminal and $83, so that was good.



Performance was choppy, and power was not full. Adapted my Chevy oil pressure sender in, and this made my fuel pump do relay stuff. Vibration free, smooth performance, more power.