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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Chrome Lug Nuts & Aluminum Wheels

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Hello TDR!!!



Hoping someone can answer this myth too... .



I am installing new Centerline Wildcat 16X8 Forged Aluminum wheels and need new lug nuts... . the stock lug nuts O. D. are too large for the I. D. of the lug nut holes on the Centerline wheels. I called Centerline to inquire and was told to use any 60 degree acorn style lug nut. I wanted to reuse my stock zinc coated steel lug nuts because I read on Alcoa's website that chrome plated lug nuts used with Al wheels will loosened and provide inconsistent clamping. I've used chrome lug nuts with Al wheels on light duty truck in the past with no problems... ... but am apprehensive about doing so on such a heavy rig. I've researched lug nut options to fit my new wheels and only come up with chrome options (currently leaning towards McGard due to their no rust guarantee).



How many people are running with chrome lug nuts and aluminum wheels? Am I crazy to do so???



Thanks!



jon
 
I have Weld Typhoons 16x10's with chrome lug nuts. Never had a problem except a cracked wheel. I heard that same thing before. I checked them from time to time and never had any loosen up. Just put an even torque on all of them.



Loren
 
UPDATE - Centerline's Answer

I just spoke with Centerline and was told not to worry about using chrome lug nuts and Al wheels. The best thing to do is check the wheel lug nut torque periodically after initial installation/re-installation (standard operating practice in my book). It was also mentioned that a grease-less lubricant could be used on the cone seat and lug nut threads (confirmed with McGard too)... . the product recommended is called LPS1 but, I've never heard of it or done any research yet.



Ordered McGard P/N 64806 from Summit Racing. No one wanted to sell me lug nuts locally... ... everyone kept spouting that if I didn't by the wheels from them the couldn't sell me lug nuts for liability reasons. Go figure.....



jon
 
Here's the theory I was given why not to use any grease-based lubricant on lug nut threads:



1. You'll over torque because the grease acts as a lubricant in the torquing process.



My thought on #1 - I can see some merit to this, if the factory is specifying torque values on dry hardware. By adding a lubricant, you'll easily over torque due to the reduce friction.



2. Setting point #1 aside, having grease on the threads during normal braking/bearing heat cycles causes a hydraulic effect on the hardware. As the lubricant heats up it expands and exerts undue force on the fasteners. As the lubricant cools the opposite happens and may cause fastener looseness, as a result.



My thought on #2 - I can see some merit to this too.



Why would LPS1 be ok as a lubricant is anybody's guess. If it is like WD40 (and possibly evaporates like WD40), I could see where you would eliminate the problems associated with #2 but, you could still over torque as noted in #1 (unless I guess it doesn't reduce the friction coefficient by much).



I'm gonna play it safe and run my threads dry. I've used a small amount of anti-seize in the past too an have never had any ill effects. Better safe than sorry though... .



jon
 
Last edited:
Hollywud,



I believe mine are lug centric. The crack in my wheel was where the weld came together on the inside of the wheel. Glad they are guaranteed... ... . Schwabs wanted $300. 00 for a new wheel.



Loren
 
I have been running the Centerline Rattler style wheels with chrome lugs for 4 years now, never had one loosen or give any problem. :D
 
IMO, yhe only chrome plated lug nuts worth purchasing are McGard! Period. I have purchased most everything else on the market in the past however, when I purchased my new M/T Alcoa Challengers in early '99, I went with the very best, McGard... lug nuts as well as wheel locks. The McGard lug nuts and locks are fabricated from the highest quality materials and will not rust.



Expensive, but worth every penny!
 
Originally posted by Hollywud

My thought on #1 - I can see some merit to this, if the factory is specifying torque values on dry hardware



Hollywud, the fastener manufactures do not state torques are with "dry" threads. Torque specs. assume unplated hardware, lightly oiled with a mineral based lubricant (such as a 30 weight engine oil) with the excess oil removed. In other words, there is some lubricant present on the threads. What they don't factor in is the use of synthetic lubricants, anti-seize etc. on the threads. This will greatly skew the actual applied torque, possibly resulting in fastener failure... not good!



BTW, it is generally accepted that plated fastener threads (zinc, cad, etc. ) have a torque reduction of 25% of spec.
 
WD-40 vs LPS

I do not believe WD-40 and LPS are the same. WD-40 is a silicon based lubricant and leaves a film. LPS is an oil based product designed to displace moisture. If tire shops don't lube lugs, I don't think I will either. Just one mans opinion.
 
Re: WD-40 vs LPS

Originally posted by RowJ

. If tire shops don't lube lugs, I don't think I will either. Just one mans opinion.





On the other hand, tire shops use impact wrenches to install the lugs, not the preferred method, IMO. One of the tire places I went to a couple years ago, I asked if they could please use a torque wrench upon installation, the guy says... ..... "what's a torque wrench?" :rolleyes: So's I grabbed mine from behind the seat and said, "here, let me show you how to do this... ... . " :D







Rob
 
Rob has a very valid point. If you go to a tire shop and ask them to torque your nuts, a good number either don't know what you're talking about or they don't know how to do it properly. I took my truck in and asked them to torque all the nuts properly. I watched as they ran the nuts down with an impact until it wouldn't hardly turn anymore. They then clicked a torque wrench around them and said, "There ya go". I just shook my head and took it home to do it right.



Some people wonder why their rotors warp on light vehicles... ...
 
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