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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission citizens band radio install

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) swapping ring and pinion

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Yet another A/C question

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I tried to do some searches on this, but since "cb" is less than 3 letters, I didn't come up with anything useful. My questions...



How is everyone tapping into power for CBs? I was thinking of using the power accessory plug and tapping into it with wire tap-ins. Any thought or suggestions on this?



How is everyone wiring their antenna through the cab? Are most people just running the wiring out the door seal or are there better ways of doing this?



Thanks for any help!



2001. 5 2500 x-cab long bed
 
CB

I tied my power supply into the PDC under the hood, (not a good idea) it picked up a lot of elect. noise from the injector pump. Had to install a filter at the radio. Ran my ant. cable up under the dash and to the left side then down under the trim about half way to the rear door then out to the bottom of cab and up into the bed through the stake pocket. You might consider just a plug in so you could use it in the cigarett lighter, then it would go off with the ign.
 
I haven’t put a CB in, but every other in cam extra I have installed, I trace the accessory fuse from the in cab panel and find a location to tap in. The big thing is do you want it to work on acc. , running, or any time. Just after the tap, I have an inline fuse on the hot side. If you plan on installing a lot of “extras” you may want to consider putting in a new fuse panel either in the engine compartment or in the cab, then you can add to it at will, with it’s own dedicated power source.



Running the antenna, you could go to Radio Shack, or some other electrical outlet and get a new connector and stripping tool for coax cable. I would cut the wire at the stock connector, then I only have to drill a ¼” hole either in the back, the floor, or through an existing grommet in the firewall. Start at where you want to mount your antenna and work back to the point of entrance to the cab. I. E. if you mount it on a tool box in the bed, or on the roof, you can run the cable between the bed and the cab and either come in through a new hole in the cab, or run the cable under the cab along the frame and come up in the engine compartment. You may spend another $15-$20 on a new tool for stripping the wire, but I think it is well worth it for a clean install. Maybe check with a car stereo install shop if they have the equipment for putting a new fitting on. Then you can run the cable yourself and just have them put the new fitting on when you’re done.



Hope this helps.

Sticks
 
Troy:



I tapped off the fuse block on the left side of the I/P with fuse taps available at parts stores. By this method, you are availing yourself of the overcurrect protection afforded by the fuse. You can find constant hot and switched hot by using this method.



For the antenna, I got a Firestik antenna that used a stake pocket mount. Firestick also has a pre-assembled cable that has a small end that will fit thru the rubber plug on the left firewall of your truck. You just need to make a small slit in the rubber and fish the cable thru. Once thru, you can screw on the large PL-249? connector to hook to the CB.



If you need more details, holler!



Mike
 
wire it straight to the battery that is the way that a cb is suppose to be wired ,they are designed for a constant 12volts. alot less noise also. if you wire it thru the fuse block or anyway but straight wired the power source is not constant , in fact it is above 12volts which is not good for the radio. i have burned up a few radios over the years by wiring them into the vehicles wiring.
 
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Originally posted by tmckenzie

wire it straight to the battery that is the way that a cb is suppose to be wired ... in fact it is above 12volts which is not good for the radio. i have burned up a few radios over the years by wiring them into the vehicles wiring.



hmmm ... battery is going to be around 13. 8v when vechicle is running, any 12v alternator will be at this voltage running and most power taps on the rig will be about the same, less small drop through wiring etc. I think you may have had another problem.
 
Thanks for all of the information provided thus far. So this raises the question...



If I want to install to a constant hot wire, will starting the engine cause enough of a power drop for the CB to lose the current channel if it defaults to a specific channel on power-on?



I know the stock radio is able to retain time but seems to cut out CD player momentarily when starting. Is this held via a capacitor in the radio?



For instance, I have my Jeep wired so that it doesn't have constant power. Whenever I have a need to stop on the trail and shut the engine off, I have to reset the CB back to the channel we were on b/c it defaults to 9 @ power-on. This really annoys me and I'll correct it someday by hooking it up to constant power.
 
If you want constant power, you can run a line off the main in the secondary fuse panel under the hood. I'm sure you can buy a voltage regulator somewhere to keep it at or under 12 volts DC. then just make your own fuse box. A little bit of work in fabrication, but you would have a protected source. Just remember that it would have power 24 - 7.

Sticks
 
I agree with the painless wiring install. 7 extra circuits, its own voltage protector, isolated from the factory wiring. Makes it easy to add accessories. Got one on mine and it works great. (it has ignition hot and constant power so you can choose either one)

-Jason
 
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