Clean Mechanical Power for California Smog Tests

[1361]

Hello everyone
After looking at new 3500's, I just can't seem to justify the $70k, higher fuel prices and crazy registration costs here in CA. So the old girl is getting some much needed attention. After I finish with the brakes and front end stuff, the engine is gonna get some lovin too. Is it posible to make clean mechanical power that will pass the "Snap Test" performed when doing the California Smog Test? I've thought many times about getting the Mach1.6 and a new turbo. I already have a Smarty and FASS 95, but I'm pretty much stock. Dyno numbers don't concern me. This will be for towing a 10k trailer. Well, that and to put a smile on my face on those few days I drive it around town. I know I need some gauges too, but what I'm most worried about is getting "CLEAN" power. I want as little smoke as possible and I want to keep my exhaust temps in check when towing. The trans was completely rebuilt a few years ago with the anticipation of more power so I'm good to go there. I just want clean, non smokin power.

 

[Chief USA]

I have Mach 1.6 injectors on my truck and I doubt they would pass the "snap test" with the stock or a single turbo. Perhaps with compound turbos it may. If I am not gradual about rolling into the throttle, I can kill quite a few mosquitoes with my stock turbo. Adding the BHAF and 5 inch exhaust helped some but I plan to install compound turbos and head studs in the future for the very reason you are asking about. Hopefully some others have had better experiences. The Mach 1.6's did add a nice boost in power though.

 

[KATOOM]

I hear you 1000%... New truck prices are ridiculous and there's no way I can justify $80,000 for what I'd want if I was going to shop for a new truck. Thats not even accounting for the increase in DMV's to approximately $1000 a year, and the increase in insurance too. I'll happily keep my truck until I have no other option but to buy another.

That said, my power increases are an Edge EZ, RV275's, combined with an aFe intake and 4" exhaust, amongst other things. A 10,000 lb trailer would not even break a sweat behind this truck.
As for smog laws here in CA, I have to remove the EZ before the smog inspection but the RV275's are very clean burning so no one would ever know they're in there.
The aFe intake is exempt from the smog inspection but I have an EO sticker under the hood anyways just to make the tech happy during the inspection. The exhaust system is also exempt for the 2nd gen smog laws in CA but no EO sticker is provided.

 

[1361]

Thanks, I'm still leaning towards the Mach 1.6 injectors. I wonder how those 1.6's would be listed with the new way everyone seems to list injectors today. 7 x .010, 7 x .008, sac, vdo, it's a bit too confusing for me. More power is always more fun. That said, I want to do this right and not have to worry about it every two years. Just looking to do a turbo and injectors for now. Well, and perhaps an exhaust brake and manifold. This does bring up another question. Boost pressures and over boost codes. Can this be dealt with by a turbo with an adjustable wastegate? Does this allow me to set/adjust the boost pressure back to not throw codes at stock settings? My understanding is sizing a turbo to the injectors is crucial in getting the cleanest burn and best bang for your buck. Assuming I went with the 1.6 injectors, what would be the most efficient turbo? I prefer to keep my stock exhaust. My truck is loud enough as it is.

Oh, and thanks Katoom for answering on both boards.

 

[Ozymandias]

More Power is more Smoke.

 

[BDaugherty]

On a 24 valve, don’t fool with injectors unless you are after big power. Just add a tuner of your choice. Easiest and most substantial power gain available. Make sure you are able to maintain fuel pressure under load with the increased fueling.

 

[KATOOM]

On a 24 valve, don’t fool with injectors unless you are after big power. Just add a tuner of your choice. Easiest and most substantial power gain available. Make sure you are able to maintain fuel pressure under load with the increased fueling.

A tuner will always add more stress and more heat to the VP. But adding mild injectors will not only remove stress from the VP but will increase the upper power curve over that of what a tuner can offer. Just dont go huge on the injectors and you definitely get what you pay for too. Cheap injectors offering big power will typically result in a lot of smoke and a lot of heat.

 

[Regcabguy]

On a 24 valve, don’t fool with injectors unless you are after big power. Just add a tuner of your choice. Easiest and most substantial power gain available. Make sure you are able to maintain fuel pressure under load with the increased fueling.

The RV 275's yield better mpg,very little smoke and 40 hp. Add an EZ to it and you've got a quick,economical truck. I had Mach 1.6's in my 24v. Way too much smoke for me.

 

[BDaugherty]

I ran an edge juice with attitude on my ‘01. I was very happy with it until I added 80hp injectors. Added smoke but not really power. Mileage took a hit, too. That said, the RV275s are much cleaner than aftermarket injectors. My opinion still is that the op can keep his truck stock for annual smog testing and then pop in a tuner for a power boost the rest of the year.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Not that it helps this thread, but with all my engine mods, I normally run my Edge Comp on setting 1/1, which is even lower power level than OEM stock - and show extremely low snap throttle smoke. Out in the upgrades and towing, I run the Comp on 3/3 - plenty of smoke then...

AHHhh, but here in eastern Oregon, NO smog tests...

= = = = = =
'02 HO Quad cab 2500 ETH-DEE, all extras except leather! Could these be the LAST of the "real diesels" from Dodge/Cummins...?

Edge comp, BHAF, Frantz oil/fuel filters, Don M 1.6 FI injectors, Rip's 4 inch exhaust - pillar mount boost/EGT and fuel pressure - coolant bypass filtration system - Walbro 392GSL fuel pump - DSS stainless intake tube - Amsoil/Donaldson 4510 air cleaner...

Icom 706 MKIIG "DC-to-daylight" Ham transceiver, Ameritron ALS-500 mobile amp... 40/20 meters... 7.175/14.182 mhz... '88 KIT 24 foot 5th wheel.

 

[Mike Ellis]

I still have my '97 3500 in bone stock form, the old girl runs great despite the continued Dodgification of everything except the frame, engine and running gear. I don't know how effective the catalytic converter on it is after hundreds of thousands of miles, but even in pure stock form if I don't give the truck a hard workout from time to time the exhaust system seems to accumulate a lot of soot --- when I do have to roll into the throttle hard after long periods of easy driving it will produce a pretty good cloud of smoke -- not really coal-rolling black but enough to get your attention.

If the "snap" test is a yearly emissions test and you have time to prep, it would probably be good to take your truck out and run it hard first to blow out any accumulated gunk so it doesn't come out while they are testing it. If it is a random pull-over type event, it might be wise to get onto the throttle hard a couple of times on every drive just to get the system cleaned out a bit --- RPM and boost are the diesel exhaust equivalent of a high fiber diet. Clean pipes are happy pipes...

 

[AHutson]

If you are looking to change turbos you may want to consider a switchblade from Blaylock Turbochargers. It's a variable vane turbo that works it's variation based on it's boost, kind of like a wastegate actuator. No computer controls involved. I just discovered them a few days ago when watching videos on youtube. They came out right after I had to change the one on my 2001. Too bad because I would liked to have put on one instead of the one I did, but oh well.