Clicking sound coming from left front

[AHarris]

I've noticed recently a clicky clunky sound that seems to be coming from the left front tire on my signature truck. It occurs whether its in 2 or 4 wheel drive and most noticeable at low speeds. Any ideas what it could be?

 

[Bob4x4]

Most common would be the axle shaft u-joint

 

[mwilson]

Most common would be the axle shaft u-joint

What Bob said.



I have had two fail in this manner, one on the '97 that I already changed out and one in the '06. Both did the ticky-ticky clicky clicky noise. Under strain in 4WD it will be worse. A dry needle or dry cross seems to cause the noise.



If you are plowing with it you really should change the u-joints on both sides to greasable plus while there you can never-seeze the living wheee out of the unit hubs so they will come off next time.



Can't do that soon enough, I waited until the third year to prep the hub bearings on the '06. Big mistake. I got them out with the power steering method but administered a bit of abuse in the process. Also clean the threads on the axle stubs and never-seeze those before reassembling. I have seen several folk here have to buy an axle stub because the threads got destroyed while removing the axle nut. Road chemicals are not your friend.



Mike.

 

[AHarris]

The noise stops when I put it in 4 wheel drive and only does it in 2wd. Sometimes the noise is absent (always when in 4wd) or is at times a faint click click that I can hear when the radio's off and I'm going slow. Does this change the diagnosis?

 

[JR]

Turn your radio back up :-laf

 

[mwilson]

The noise stops when I put it in 4 wheel drive and only does it in 2wd. Sometimes the noise is absent (always when in 4wd) or is at times a faint click click that I can hear when the radio's off and I'm going slow. Does this change the diagnosis?

I still think it is an axle joint. I should have stated that it may be worse in 4WD when under strain. The '06 in 4WD will only sound off under strain, for example hooked to the fiver backing into a sandy campsite. Once in a while I can hear it while going slowly in 2WD. Gotta' change it out before heading to Indiana in June.



Mike.

 

[AHarris]

I was afraid of that. Plus I've got that 67,500 EGR service coming up in a week or two.

Would you happen to know much it would costs to replace those axle joints with the grease-able variety?

 

[AHarris]

Turn your radio back up :-laf

That worked great in my younger days when I was driving $500 clunkers that made all kinds of noises.

... like the $400 1974 Chevy Impala that I drove from Texas to Michigan in 1985 when I was going in the Navy. I burned 48 quarts of oil and 20 gallons of water on that 1,400 mile trip and the crackling AM radio helped a little to keep my mind off the rod knocking noise the dying engine was making. I had to stop every 50 miles to put in 2 quarts of oil and a gallon of water. When I reached my destination, that tired old 350 seized up in the driveway and I coasted to a stop. Because it was a rust-free Texas car, it sold fast for more than I paid for it. While I was at bootcamp, my grandfather sold it to some local Indians for $600 who towed it away, rebuilt the motor and drove it for years. The good old days.

 

[JR]

Ive had my fair share of beaters, although none that have burned 48 quarts of oil I bet NOBODY tailgated you on that trip :-laf

I just replaced my axle u joints on my 2nd gen with MOOG greasables. I would have rather stuck with Spicer joints but the Spicers are sealed and I get into enough muck, dust and salt I felt the greaseables were a better choice. IIRC they were around $50 bucks a side. They didnt neccessarily need replaced but I was already in there doing other work and for the time required to get in there at em, I figured I would save myself some time. Not sure what a shop will charge but I imagine it will be rather pricey, Im guessing even a top notch mechanic with all the right goodies will probably charge 2 to 3 hours per side... that of course is just a guess.

 

[AHarris]

Just a quick update. Took truck in for 67,500 mile EGR service and they found that both front axle u-joints were shot and they are being replaced under warranty!

2 words to the wise:

1) When plowing heavy snow, do it with the front wheels as straight as possible. Plowing with the wheels turned sharply is tough on those joints.
2) Don't stop and pull Chevy 3500's out of a snowbank when you have to do it on an angle and crank your wheels; don't be a hero, let 'em call AAA.

 

[MChrist]

On the bright side, 67,500 miles isn't bad for front u-joints. . mine went out at 36,000 and again at 90,000. I went with a free spin setup now with some fancy Spicer u-joints and these Spicers seem to be much higher quality than the previous Napa ones.
Do you know if the 2010 front end uses the same parts as an '06? Good thing they did it under warranty, a shop probably would've charged you in the neighborhood of $400 possibly?

 

[Bob4x4]

The newer trucks do have some different front end parts,supposed to have been an upgrade for the snowplowwers