Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Close call on fuel filter replacement

[Schlickenmeyer]

Air embolism. . Ran the lift pump 3 times before I tried to start, still got a no start. tried cranking for a few seconds, nada. So I tried my new secret trick. I bled the line at the schrader valve on the VP44, bumped the starter to run the LP. bled again. Then tried to start. nothing for a sec, touched the pedal, and boom. smooth as glass. Thought I would be cracking injector lines for a second there.

 

[jwilliams3]

I always used ether. (*disclaimer dont do this if you dont know how to control your grid heaters)

 

[Chief USA]

I will have to disagree on the ether. DO NOT under ANY circumstances use ether. Not only is this an extreme explosion hazard, ether can damage the pistons and rings. IF you must use a spray type start assist fluid as a last resort, I suggest using WD-40.



The pump does not have enough power or push to displace the air in the fuel filter housing. You can bump the starter from now until the cows come home and the air will remain. Bleeding the air from the schrader does not always displace the air either. I fill the fuel filter bowl up with known clean fuel with a syringe even with the top edge with the filter and housing top not threaded down. Then thread it down to the proper torque and then bleed the schrader. A good indication the lift pump is pushing good fuel and the air is gone is that the pump with load down heavily (low rpm). I few starter bumps for good measure and then I start it up.

 

[Nate]

I always just loosen the fitting that goes into the injection pump. Bump the starter to let the lift pump run, tighten the bolt when diesel starts coming out. Works everytime.

 

[paulb]

I always just loosen the fitting that goes into the injection pump. Bump the starter to let the lift pump run, tighten the bolt when diesel starts coming out. Works everytime.

That's what I do too. Gotta be quick on tightening the bolt...

 

[Chief USA]

Now that I have the Vulcan Big Line Kit installed this weekend; the schrader valve is removed from the system and there is a brass nut on the fitting that replaces the schrader valve. Now it is just a matter of loosening the nut and bumping the starter but like Paul mentioned; you better be fast!

 

[Schlickenmeyer]

Interesting that others have had luck in the same rough area. . Is it possible that

the air does not get all the way into the lines between the pump and injectors?

This is a much easier area to access, and in my case, no extra tools needed.

I wonder now if cracking the injector line is necessay all the time. .



Thoughts from those who know more on these things?