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Club Cab to 4 Door Cab

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I have located a rust free 1977 Dodge 4 door cab. I have been wanting to make this change on my truck. I know that changing out a cab is a lot of work and time. I plan on pulling my club cab and replacing it with this 4 door cab and then putting a short bed on the truck. I am making this change for a couple of reasons. I want more room as the family is expanding and my current cab has plenty of damage that I don't want to fix. What issues will I have to deal with when it comes to making this switch. I know that the tranmission tunnle is different than my 93 truck. I also know that I will have to deal with the clutch master cylinder. Wiring will also be an issue. Is there anything else that I need to be aware of before I start this project. Will the doors of of my 93 fit the 77 cab.



Thanks



Why Not (Chris)
 
I don't know what the difference in frames are, I used my crew cab frame and used my 91 regular cab as the parts truck. The doors fenders, hoods and radiator suports are interchangeable however you have to use the doors and fenders since there is a diference in body lines on the frount doors and fenders from 81. 5? to 93 the back doors on these trucks were all the same.

hope this helps

mike
 
As for the 70's truck I am not 100% sure. On the 80's crew's I have noticed a couple of small things, mostly needing to change or modify the holes in the firewall. That is about it. Trans tunnel is different, it is smaller.



Robert
 
Sounds like a cool project just picked up a 78 crew cab swb. have a 89 doner did your cab come weth all the doors what did you give for it if you dont mind me asking.
 
I am picking up the complete truck for $300. 00 and yes it does have all th doors. The front doors are not in good shape. This is why I plan using my doors and front clip off of my current 93 truck. The bed is rusted out over the fenders so I will get a 92/93 short bed for the truck.



Mike:

Did you have to modify the trans tunnel on your truck when you put the cummins over into the truck?



Robert:

Will the smaller trans tunnel cause me any problems that you are aware, or do I need to pull the tunnel out of my 93 and put it into the later model cab?



Why Not (Chris)
 
Chris,



I believe the tunnel in mine is the original tunnel from the factory, and I have measured (as in test fit, I have not actually bolted in the newly painted cab onto the frame yet) but it appears that even with the NV5600 6 speed installed, I will have about 3/4 of an inch to spare. All that needed to be changed for the 6 spd swap was move the shifter hole in the tunnel back a couple of inches. At worst, you could always raise the body 1/4 of an inch for more clearance if you are worried.



Robert
 
Thanks, I think that I am going to make the jump and start a project. As if I need another project, but what the heck.



Thanks



Why Not (Chris)
 
You cannot just take the clubcab and long box off and put on a crewcab and short box on the same frame, the frame under the cab is different. The length of the straight part of the frame before it kicks up near the back of the cab is a lot longer on the crew ( approx 60" )than on the club (approx 27" ). Your choices are to either use the crew frame and shorten it behind the cab for a short box ( will cause fuel tank fitting issues ) or use lenghten the club frame under the cab and shorten it behind the cab , a lot of work. A variation of this is to use two club frames for the lenghtening part, cut one just before the kick up and the other just behind the front suspension, this way you only have one joint.
 
Mike:

Did you have to modify the trans tunnel on your truck when you put the cummins over into the truck?



Robert:

Will the smaller trans tunnel cause me any problems that you are aware, or do I need to pull the tunnel out of my 93 and put it into the later model cab?



Why Not (Chris)[/QUOTE]



The only modification to my tunnel was to cut the holes for the shifters. I had no isues there.



Also please consider using the frame from the crew cab, it has a heaver frame and I'm really happy i did mine that way. Just make sure you buy good drill bits, because there are alot of holes to drill

Mike
 
Mtownsend,



I will ask this here instead of PMing you as it will help Chris out (I dont want to highjack your thread Chris) but it was recommended to me when originally researching my conversion, that it was better to use the diesel frame as it was stronger. Although I used the original crew frame as it made my conversion much easier, is it infact a win win situation for Chris to use the crew frame?



Robert
 
Well I was on the same boat less than a year ago, asking all the questions. Iwas told to lengten the 91 cummins frame by some becuse it was to much work to convert it to 4x4, others said just convert the Crew cab frame because cutting the 91 frame would weaken it. ( yes I know this is done to lengthen the frames all the time and can be done right by qualified people I for one am a welder) With that said I found that my 85 crew cab frame was 1/16 inch thicker (1/4" not 3/16), an inch taller web and the flange was a 1/2" wider. When I had both frames torn down the shorter cummins frame had alot more twist when I moved it around than the Crew cab frame.

It took me less than two months to complete (well are they ever complete) once I started to rip the crew cab down and thats with working my 12 shift job. all working out side with basic tools, air compressor and air chisle to help remove nearly 50 rivets from each frame! The only thing I had that was nice was my tow truck to lift the cab and engine.



Sorry this is so long please look at my post and the others before me who have done this in the convertions section, I would have never started this project without the help of the fine menbers on this board. :D



Mike
 
Thanks for all of the ideas and imput on this subject. I done some looking at the 2 frames this weekend and with my very short time schedule what I came up with was this. I would use my current 93 frame and bring the crew cab over and put it on that frame. I had figured that since I already wanted to put litte larger tires on the truck when it is finished I would use a 3" body lift to make up for the difference in frame height. I measured and came up with 2 3/4 inch rise in the frame. By putting the back of the cab on the frame cab mounts and putting everything on a 3" lift (of course I will have to level the cab at the back with a 1/4" spacer) I would put the cab on the frame and not have to deal with changing over the front 4X4 axle and switching over the engine/transmission/case. Just a thought, but since you mentioned that the frame on the crew cab is stronger that might change my mind. Anyway I have some work ahead of me and with a new baby on the way I don't have much time. I will keep everyone posted as this moves forward.



Thanks



Why Not (Chris)
 
Well I have gotten the deal worked on the truck and have also found a donor frame as I looking doing the swap to put the 4x4 parts onto the 2 wheel drive frame. I ran into a set back since I lost 3rd gear syncro on my truck so I pulled the transmission to do a rebuild on the transmission, a rebuild on the 205 case and also done a complete reseal on the back of the engine. My other little hurdle that is coming is the birth of my daughter on April-24. This is my first kid so I am trying to get everything in place. I am hoping to work on the truck this summer and have it ready for fall. I will work on putting posts on as I move forward.



Why Not (Chris)
 
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