Clunking in left front floor board

[Ozymandias]

Bob you solved my Problem!!!!

I checked my Frame mounts and they have been totally worn out on the upper side, installed a set from Genos new - and the Clunk has gone.
Just searched the wrong place all the time and spent so much money for parts that haven't been bad.

Thanks again!

 

[RDeFayette]

Bob you solved my Problem!!!!

I checked my Frame mounts and they have been totally worn out on the upper side, installed a set from Genos new - and the Clunk has gone.
Just searched the wrong place all the time and spent so much money for parts that haven't been bad.

Thanks again!

No problem. Glad you found it. After I went through this anytime I see someone that's been through the entire front end chasing down an elusive "clunk" this is what they usually find. Like I said it took me a LONG time to find it but when I did it was a "eureka" moment. I wonder how much money the parts companies have made because of this? For the cost of a couple of bolts.

 

[Jeepr]

To the original poster, as they said control arm bushings. And, someone else mentioned sway bar links. I had aftermarket links with solid joints and when they wore out, I felt what you are describing. So either one could do it.

As far checking control arm bushings, it's kind of hard. You can use a pry bar and see if they move. I know everyone is gonna say I'm crazy for the next suggestion, but the best way I've found to check them in my Jeep is I lay on the ground while a buddy (that you trust!) rolls forward and backward, kind of jerking it forward, hitting the brakes, and then same in reverse.... it stresses the bushing and you'll see if they are moving.

 

[Ozymandias]

No problem. Glad you found it. After I went through this anytime I see someone that's been through the entire front end chasing down an elusive "clunk" this is what they usually find. Like I said it took me a LONG time to find it but when I did it was a "eureka" moment. I wonder how much money the parts companies have made because of this? For the cost of a couple of bolts.

This hint should go into the TDR paper Magazin, I've never heard or read about this before.

 

[AH64ID]

I was looking at my front end tonight and realized that both front body mount bolts are GONE...completely GONE!!

 

[RDeFayette]

I was looking at my front end tonight and realized that both front body mount bolts are GONE...completely GONE!!

Every time I see one of these posts where someone has thrown every part in the book at the truck and still has the noise I post this bolt deal up. Took me 2 years to find the problem but like i said before it was a EUREKA moment. Luckily before flushing $$$ down the drain (parts) I took the time to thoroughly document every change I made, part I checked so I could honestly analyse the cause and affect relationship between the stupid "clunk", where it "felt" like it was and what could possibly be causing it. Just hope it helps. I just wish more guys (like yourself my friend, where ya been anyway) would simply take the time to check these bolts before jumping off a cliff with parts and $$.

 

[AH64ID]

I don't even have a clunk, noise, etc.... This was simply a pre-trip inspection.

I suppose I'll see if Dodge has them tomorrow.

 

[RDeFayette]

I don't even have a clunk, noise, etc.... This was simply a pre-trip inspection.

I suppose I'll see if Dodge has them tomorrow.

I did find if the bolts are missing there usually isn't any noise. Only when the are still in place and rusting away. all the scale/junk that builds up between the bolt (or what's left of it) and the mount/isolator causes a bind/noise when the isolator moves around. (my theory anyway)

 

[AH64ID]

It makes sense. I cannot even move the front fenders at all, but there is a lot of weight on them.

Who knows how many miles of washboard roads I have driven on with them gone.

 

[Ozymandias]

On mine the bushing itself was worn down, so the metalpart of it made direct contact to the chassis, grinded and chafed all the time.
Basically my cabin was set metal to metal to the chassis - but that wasn't visible until I took it out!
From eyesight in mounted it was all fine!

 

[RDeFayette]

It makes sense. I cannot even move the front fenders at all, but there is a lot of weight on them.

Who knows how many miles of washboard roads I have driven on with them gone.

look at the upside....1/2 way to a 1 piece tilt front end! weld the fenders to the hood add a couple of hinges and bingo! Done. start a new trend?

 

[AH64ID]

Anyone have a part number for the bolt or the bottom isolator attached to it?

Dodge is having a hard time finding it in the part catalog. They keep telling me it's a M8x1.25 x20..... NOPE

 

[Ozymandias]

M12x100x1,75 - Grade 10.9
It's a standard screw.

 

[AH64ID]

What else would have fallen out with the bolt?

 

[mwilson]

Are they coming up with 6501557???

 

[AH64ID]

Thanks Mike!!

What is the part number for 4 or 9? Why are they different?

I am guessing they are what fell off with the bolt.

 

[mwilson]

From everything I have looked at while eating lunch I don't think there is anything else. #4 and #9 are the lower mounts themselves depending on truck configuration (Reg or Quad Cab).

Is your lower mount still there???

I don't think there is a separate washer or anything.




From a Dodge Dakota forum as a result of a Google part number search...

"Good luck finding them anywhere but the dealership. The part# from Mopar is 6501557.

If you want to try and source them, they are metric bolts....

Grade 10.9 Flange Bolts. Size is M12 x 1.75, 90mm length."

 

[AH64ID]

No the lower mount is missing. It looks like it fell off with the bolt.

 

[mwilson]

Number 9 seems to be the lower no matter what. The uppers vary depending on position and cab style.

55275749AB

Verify with your dealer, this Nexiq program I'm using is accurate about 90% of the time.

 

[mwilson]

It is the lower even though the Nexiq description says upper....