Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) clutch adjustment?

[telliott]

Just installed new south bend FE. have to push pedel through the floor for it to disengage. Anyway to shorten the catch/release point? i realize there is no real adjustment on the system, but it almost feels like it needs bled or something. Has a little slop at the top, and its almost like i cant push it in far enough.

 

[telliott]

oh and it is also nearly impossible to get into reverse with out just jamming it in.

 

[Dieseldemon]

The only adj is to shim the release arm ball inside the bell hsg use two washers (3/8) for about . 0110. if you need more info PM me.

 

[Missouri Mule]

If you want try and bleed to see if it heps, here is how.



Unbolt slave cylindr rfrm bell housing, take lid off resivour. Have a person watch for bubbles in resivour.

Second person needs to go under truck and move the save rod in and out very slowly (about ten times) until there are no bubbles in resivour.



Put cap back on and bolt slave cylinder back to bell housing.

 

[telliott]

I'll give it a try, thanks.

 

[boydo]

If you still have trouble, pick up the heavy duty hydrolics, the master is adjustable which makes setting up a clutch much easier.

 

[telliott]

tried the bleeding thing with no improvement. Its like i need a longer slave rod. Has anyone tried doing that? Anyone have anymore info on the heavy duty hydraulics? where can i get them and at what price?

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

I have the same clutch and it behaves like yours. The new HD hydraulics didn't help. They are available from SBC if you want to give them a try.



Dan

 

[n7gxz]

A longer slave rod will not help, you need a longer master cylinder rod. Here is why. If the master cylinder is moving say one inch then the slave will move one inch. If you put a longer rod on the slave it will still be moving one inch. Remember that the slave is spring loaded to keep the rod up against the release fork and the bearing against the clutch. The only time a longer rod on the slave would help is if the slave is bottoming out, which you should feel as a hard stop in the clutch peddle.



Kevin

 

[GCroyle]

.02$

One comment regarding modifications of hydraulic components, specifically any rod lengths.

As the disc used with a push type clutch cover (NV4500, NV5600 only. The G56 uses a self adjusting cover and does not have the same wear range requirement) gets thinner, the diaphragm spring tips move in the direction of the transmission. The bearing backs up, pushes the fork back, fork pushes the S/C pushrod back, DOT 3 pushes M/C piston back, piston pushes push rod back eventually you hit the pedal stop.



You need to maintain this allowance for disc wear with any modified system.



Simple check, remove the S/C (leave it hooked up to the hydraulics) push on the pushrod ALL the way back into the S/C body, it HAS to bottom out in the S/C PRIOR to bottoming out in the M/C or pedal cluster assy. If it does not allow for wear, it will be like holding the pedal in one spot and the clampload will be comprimised as a result, early clutch failure.



No, I didn't draw it all out and see if it is likely or not, just commenting on what happens by design vs. what happens without sweating the details.

 

[JTH]

When I installed the SBC DD in my truck I got the upgraded hydraulics and they had an adjustable master cylinder-to-pedal rod and it wouldn't have worked without it due to the fact that when I pushed my clutch in, it would go to far and the throwout bearing would hit on the clutch.