Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Clutch changeout... Creeper & transmission jack

[TFPace]

Hello All,



I have sent this question out to two individuals so I thought I would try everyone too.



I have ordered a Southbend MU 13-1. 25 Con OFE

to go in my '94 3500 5 speed 4WD



I am planning on doing the clutch job using a friends transmission jack.



Questions:

1. Does the gear stick have to be pulled?



2. I recall folks talking about a cross member being a problem.



3. Does the truck need to be blocked up or does it sit high enough?





You can see that I am new at this! Any advice would be greatly appreciated!



Thanks for any help!



Tom

 

[C. Harlan]

The gearshifter needs to be removed. There is no way to get around it. you will have to drop both driveshafts, both sticks, for transmission and Xfer case, both Crossmembers, slave cylinder, and back up lights, and then you will be ready to roll. . you will have to seperate the transfer case first, get it out of the way, then go for the transmission... once you get the transmission dropped, you will see what needs to be done. I have done this more times in the past year than I can count! Only on a 2wd... . PM me if you need help.



-Chris-

 

[Andy Redmond]

I would make sure that you have a bottle jack and some jack stands/blocking to rest either end of the engine on. When it goes back together, place a block of wood under the vibration dampner and jack the front of the engine up a bit (watch fan to radiator/radiator fan shroud clearances) which will help the approach angle for the input shaft when sliding it back together.



The porto-power is nice to "expand" the frame to allow for easy in and out of the cross member.



You will likely need some hd jackstands to get the truck up higher. Depends on how low profile your friends transmission jack is. . I would suggest 20-22" from the frame rail to the floor. Some times you can turn the steering wheel or remove a frontwheel to slide by for extra clearance.



Get rid of the pilot bearing and go for having the flywheel machined for the kevlar "bushing" SBC sells. The machine shop work is about 100-150 in most markets. .



Do you have a helper, the transmission and t-case are not light to push on a floor/trans jack on your back?



Good luck

Andy

 

[bighammer]

Originally posted by Andy Redmond



The porto-power is nice to "expand" the frame to allow for easy in and out of the cross member.

... and a bulldozer is nice for that kitchen remodel.



If you jack the trans up to the floor pan and knock the crossmember upward, it slides out real easily. It has a slight V shape to it so it weges itself snug into the frame.

 

[1sand0s]

I strongly DISAGREE with the kevlar bushing.

As far as I know, they are more of a last ditch thing when your pilot bearing has torn out your flywheel and you cannot use the regular bearing in there.

(Seen several of them, they shrink with age/miles then they fall out of the flywheel... think about what is supporting the trans shaft when they fall out or loosen up. NOT A GOOD THING!)

There is no need to bend anything to do this job, unless your truck is bent.

If you split the t-case and the trans... the cross-member slides right out.



Jacking the truck so you have a couple of extra feet between you and the ground is a good thing!

Make sure you check out your rear main seal while you are in there and take a good look at the input shaft of the trans. (How sloppy??)



While you have it out, take the time to swap the fluid in your transfer case. Also, depending on which one you have, you might want to think about the retainer for them that prevents your shaft sliding forward and taking out your oil pump.