Clutch disc

[dusthomps]

I bought my truck about a year ago from the original owner. He claimed that since he owned it, he had never replaced the clutch disc. I've run the milage up to 192k and the clutch still feels great even when towing 11,000. I've owned quite a few manuals, and never heard of one, or actually seen one to go over 75k. Anyone have a general idea how many miles the factory clutch disc will last?

 

[bkokotovic]

Your truck sounds about the same as mine ('90 LE W250 with Getrag). Mine is 130K miles. I've seen some with the original clutch as high as 250K. It really depends a lot on the variables (driver, load... ). The OEM cluctch in our case is the strongest I've seen.



Look at Southbendclutch.com for more info. Those guys know their stuff and wouldn't mind answering any questions.



Has your truck been modified in any way (pump, injectors)? If it has, it may be time to switch clutches anyway, just as preventative maint.



Good luck,

B

 

[JFitzgerald]

133K

Mine is still working fine at 133,000 miles. Gotta like the way these trucks were built.

 

[rwinslow]

My OEM Clutch went 240,000 miles. Replaced due to the pilot bearing and throw out bearing wearing out. Replaced with a Luk clutch that used a stamped pressure plate assembly instead of a cast framework. Luk Engineering swore up and down that this was a better clutch than the OEM clutch. The LUK clutch went out after 40,000 miles and two years. The third clutch is now an OEM clutch with the cast pressure plate, etc. Hope you can learn from my experience.

 

[dusthomps]

bkokotovic:



I am the second owner of the truck. The guy I bought it from was in his fifties, but he bought the truck brand new to haul around a bobcat for his construction business. I imagine when he wasn't towing anything, he was fairly reasonable on the truck, much like myself. I also tow an 18' trailer about once a week, with loads ranging from 5000-11000. For this reason I turned the pump up to get more power to climb the hills in my area. I was just surprised to see a truck that has seen this much work still be on the original clutch.

 

[Grey Wolf]

I'm still running the original

 

[KEENO]

The other First Gen has 225,000 miles showing and the OEM Clutch is hold up well. This is with 36" tires & 3. 54 gears and a lifetime of 2nd gear starts.



Just another perspective... ...



Peter @ SBC will tell you that the 13" OEM Sachs Clutch is almost too much clutch for our application. He's an wonderful resource & clutch guru.



www.southbendclutch.com



KEENO

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Keeno's right on... the Sachs was an excellent clutch. After that they changed to a 12 or 12. 5" and it was not as durable. You have to go to an aftermarket to get as good as or better than the original Sachs, or so I'm told. .



Bob.

 

[Tim1]

happy with clutch

I am real happy with the clutch at 122,000 and will keep it when I put in the nv4500. It works to good to replace it . Tim

 

[MikeO]

270,000 miles... original clutch with a Banks Power Pack (3) since new.



Half its life spent half unloaded... half at between 18,000lbs and 22,500lbs between Drumondville, QC and Hartford, CT (super hilly). Always use 1st gear to get the whole deal rolling and rev matching always happens on downshifts and upshifts (actually I drive it with no clutch usually but don't tell anyone).



The drivetrain casualties so far...

Rear ends (3)

Getrags (one rebuild)



I just replaced the center carrier bearing when I shortened the driveshaft too.



Mike O.

 

[mark93]

Hey dusthomps and others.



At 140K I replaced my clutch due to the throw-out bearing being bad. The Disk was about half worn-out.



FYI to anyone needing a clutch: Auto Zone sells the exact OEM Sachs (formerly Fitchel & Sachs) clutch assembly under the brand name "Cumberland". It cost $499. 99 less than a year ago.



The OEM '89-'93 clutch, 330 mm and cast iron cover, is better than most aftermarket replacements for the first gen, which mostly use the 310mm 2nd gen clutch with the stamped steel cover and sell for $250-$300.



You can perform a full torque test by driving in fifth gear at about 2000 rpm, flooring it and hold your speed steady with the brakes. You can do this for about 10 seconds before the brakes start to get really hot. If no slippage heard (or seen on tach) its A-OK.



Incedentally by using the brakes and fifth gear you can get accurate max boost pressure readings at various rpms and also find minimum rpm for max boost.