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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch hopping while towing-lower gears???

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) codes set

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I have an 01 3500 (see my sig) and we just upgraded to a 40 ft 5th wheel toy hauler. I picked it up on Saturday and the chatter, more like hopping is real bad when taking off with this beast. Now, I did plan on upgrading the gears to the 4. 10's and I'm wondering if that will help and minimize the hopping? I know the metallic clutches are known for that, because they are either in or out, not slipping but I think these 3. 55 gears I have now are soooo freeway gears, I need more low end. Any info is greatly appreciated. :confused:
 
Mine hops bad if I start out in 2nd gear, when I'm unloaded I always start in 2nd gear. Heavy loads isnt too bad starting in first. Do you give gas while starting out in first or do you just let the clutch out slow and let the ecm start you out? Apply no gas and letting the ecm do the work works well for me as long as I'm not trying to start on any type of a grade.
 
Mine does the same thing in 1st and 2nd only when I'm loaded. I'm not sure what it is but it's pretty annoying. It can't be good. My clutch is about gone now so it may have something to do with a bad clutch. I'd like to know how to get rid of it.
 
My OFE can hop pretty bad too when I'm towing (10k 5ver). Like almost to the point you'd swear something is about to break. I installed the PAC Brake 2-low kit from Piers and that helped a bunch with maneuvering, but the occasional uphill launch can get things hoppin' pretty good.



The next path I'm gonna take is a set of traction bars. My guess is that a lot of the hop is coming from the factory rear lift blocks and the axle wrap they cause. I can feel that the lurching of the truck as the axle wraps and unwraps prevents me from smoothly releasing the clutch pedal. And I'm thinkin' that the motion of me getting bounced forward and back in the cab is just enough to cause me to "bounce" the clutch pedal at exactly the right time to aggravate the condition (truck jumps forward, I slide back, clutch grabs harder, so I push more on the clutch, axle unwraps and I slide forward pushing the clutch in more so I let off a bit, repeat). With the traction bars I wouldn't have that energy storage and release in the springs (hop) and the truck should be a bit more driveable.
 
I hear ya about the traction bars PC!@ driver. Mine feels the same way, like lots of axle wrap. The clutch is new and works great with no trailer or towing our old 21 foot toy hauler, but the big 5th wheel does the hops. Does anyone have the problem with the 4. 10 gears??? I had a two wheel drive Dodge truck with the 4. 10s and that was nice and low for towing, so I'm hoping to swap out to those and minimize that hop. Oo.
 
4:10's are going to help but!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nickaru said:
I hear ya about the traction bars PC!@ driver. Mine feels the same way, like lots of axle wrap. The clutch is new and works great with no trailer or towing our old 21 foot toy hauler, but the big 5th wheel does the hops. Does anyone have the problem with the 4. 10 gears??? I had a two wheel drive Dodge truck with the 4. 10s and that was nice and low for towing, so I'm hoping to swap out to those and minimize that hop. Oo.



Nick

The 4:10's are going to help but your still going to be way overloaded once you get the toys in it with that monster. Check out my readers rigs photos. My brother has a 40' Weekend Warrior that he pulls with a F-550. My 05 with 4:10's would be overloaded so I know yours is too. I'm curious did the RV dealership say you can legally tow that beast?. We weighed my brothers with two quads, a KTM 525,and a CR80 fullof water and fuel the monster tipped the scales at 19K :eek:. All that being said towing that much weight with a Light Duty truck is all the norm these days, christ on Easter weekend I saw a F-250 PSD with a lift kit and 35's pulling the same trailer :confused:



Good luck!!!!!!

drive safely



Mac :cool:
 
I'm going to get my trailer weighed, but mine is not a weekend warrior. Any company that lowers the GVWR of their trailer just to keep it as class C endorsement is not being honest with their customers. We know the WW's are heavy, they just won't admit it. I may be over my combined weight but below my trucks axle weights. I asked my sales person if they knew about the class C endorsement and the class A non-commericial license needed on the heavy 5th wheels and they weren't aware.
 
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