Clutch life???

[jims]

How much life should I get from my clutch?
I have ~20,000 on it now and 1/2 of that is back and forth to work stop and go.
thanks

 

[GeneA]

With heavy towing my first clutch went out at about 60,000 miles. Replaced that one with a Mopar and it showed signs of leaving at around 100,000. At 120,000 I replaced that one with an extra duty one rated at 800 ft lbs from Precision Power in Kokomo, IN and so far at 155,000 it is doing real well.

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98. 5 24v 3500 2wd 3. 54 lsd pyro & boost in A pillar DD1's E-brake by Jacob U. S. Gear over/direct O'Reilly Air Horns 105 gal aux tank 35' Prowler 5th wheel with three slides Firestone air helper springs

 

[Big-D]

Jims,

The life of your clutch depends a great deal on your own driving habits. For example, do you constantly start out in second gear because you are empty? Do you "ride" the clutch pedal? How much to do slip the clutch as rpm's are increasing during the initial roll?

Couple these things with the high output of our engines and the likelyhood of your clutch lasting very long is slim. If you are the primary driver, than you know best how to work with your clutch. As for life expectancy, that would vary as much as the weather between different driver's. JMO.
Dave

 

[trucknut]

Had to change my clutch out at90000miles,on my early 9812v. The clutch was is decent shape(springs on the disc were rattleing)but the release bearing was worn out. My style of driving is what lead to the worn bearing. Waiting for a light to change,train to cross, pedistrian,any short stop, my leg kept the clutch pedal to the floor. When the clutch pedal is depressed the release bearing is wearing. Reving the engine while depressing the clutch will put extreme stress on the bearing,it is also a test of your bearing condition. I wouldn't do this(extremely hard on the bearing) unless you suspect the bearing is going.
A worn release bearing should be changed immediately, before any trans shaft wear, begins.
When the release bearing goes most of us will do the clutch,as the truck is apart.
Driving Habits go a long way on the life of a clutch.

 

[jims]

My driving habits are as follows.
I start out mostly in 2nd.
When stopped I release the clutch ped all the way with the transmission neutral.
I never drive with my foot resting on the clutch pedal.
When I shift I lift my foot off the pedal before I go for the next gear. (unless I'm hotrodding) I am also moderately bombed.

 

[Idaho Native]

New TDR member... 99 24V Quad Cab 5Spd... love it and want to BOMB it but the stories about the stock clutch lifespan saved me $2200. Anyone know the approximate cost of the aftermarket upgrades for the clutch if I decide to go for it in the future?

 

[GSchlegel]

Idaho Native,
Some of the MWTDR members are getting together this Sunday morning at 9:30 am. at the Old Country Buffett at 144th and Center in Omaha. There is a post on it under the Local and Regional Events Forum (I think). Feel free to attend!

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'96' 3500, 5-speed, 3. 54 LSD, Ext. Cab, 180,000 plus miles, relay controlled back-up alarm and rear facing fog lights, K&N air filter, TST #11 plate . 010" forward of stock, AFC spring kit, lost cat, SPA digital EGT and boost gauge,20 yr. old marine air horns, bed liner, 5" monster exhaust tip, Geno's manual trans. filter.

 

[strick]

Hey jims. What kind of mods have you done to your truck? Different mods will test the clutch life in varying degrees. I'm a testament to that. My clutch toasted at 20k, because of power upgrades. Or was it the truck pulling... #ad
: I'm very self conscious about riding a clutch. It drives me crazy when I hear somebody ride the pi$$ out of a clutch. If your truck is stock and you drive it properly I would think around 100K. Give or take 50K. #ad
:

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'99 3500HD flatbed, 5 spd 4:10 Posi, homebuilt underbody toolboxes & cowcatcher, 4" down w/straight stack(speak-up! I can't hear you!), K&N filter, what silencer ring? mudgrips, banks pyro & boost guage, sw fuel guage, 50% 3 wire BlueBox(HOLYSMOKE), Psycotty air, PS boost module w/ elbow, thinking about 1/2" fuel lines(real hard)
Jason

[This message has been edited by strick (edited 02-16-2001). ]

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I have 110,000 on my stock clutch. No slipping yet. I always start out in LOW (3. 54 rear, 36" tires).
I have not slipped it severely once since it was new. I never 'ride' it like Joe said and never 'dump' it with the RPM's up.

I have a fairly strong combo now.

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 02-17-2001). ]

 

[KSTRS]

I am in the midst of clutch replacement on my 98 12v. After 125k, I decided to replace it due to rattling. When I pulled the transmission the problem was obvious, my release fork pivot retainer was gone (later found behind the flywheel). The release bearing was shot & had slung grease throughout the housing. Since I hadnt done any towing or really worked this thing in awhile slippage was not a problem, & with the hyd. clutch the pedal felt ok.

Has anybody else heard of this happening?

The telltale sign was the few seconds of rattling when the engine was shut down (trans in neutral, no rattle with clutch pedal depressed)

Tanks Joe & Trucknut for advice on declutching when stopped, excellent advice!!

Ken

 

[zzman]

Boy how lucky can I be.
My driving habits have me putting truck in neutral
and releasing clutch at all red lights.
I'm glad to hear this helps the truck. I know it helps the fatigue
on my left leg. Thanks guys

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97 3500 SLT REDext cab duelly p/u 5sp 3:54 2wd 245/75R16
3" straight exhaust stock torque plate slid full foward star wheel tweeked
105,000 miles still with plenty of ZOOM... ZOOM... ZOOM

RON Z

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

A few more points on clutch wear:
the pilot bearing Dodge uses is a needle bearing which rides irectly on the transmission input shaft "nose". The ID is . 75 and OD is 1". It hs a bit of captive grease and rubber lip seals on both ends. It cannot take much clutch "riding" at stoplights, and when it fails, it goes out with other problems. It is hard on the transmission input, and that gear/shaft may need replacement. Often the wobble hurts the front trans bearing too. I often recommend an oilite bronze bushing instead because it does no harm, if you are sharp enough to catch the worsened relsease from the disk wobble (more pedal is needed for release).