Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch master cylinder assembly

[kkreigh]

I recently had intermittent symptoms of the clutch not disengaging fully. I would attempt to stop and depress the clutch lever. It would feel a little spongy and would not fully disengage. The load on the transmission caused it to be very difficult to pull it into neutral. On a couple of occasions I had to turn off the ignition to det stopped. The clutch master cylinder assembly was replaced and cured teh problem. I have 125,xxx on my 2001. I have put a lot of off road miles in rough terrain on my truck which caused a lot more clutch repetitions than the average truck. The part was $244. 00 and labor was $160. 00. Anyone else replaced one??

 

[TboneMan]

Those are the same symptoms I had back in 2003 (110,000 miles ago). I had the clutch master cylinder replaced (I don't recall the cost).

 

[darkhorse]

I replace one with similar symptoms with a unit from Southbend.

 

[tmacod]

I just replaced mine a couple months ago after almost running into a wall when the clutch re-engaged as I was parking. The replacement was very easy. If i remember you needed a few wrenches/sockets (13 & 15 mm?) & flat tip screw driver for the clips and some side cutters/wire snips.

 

[hsmith]

That's a lot of labor cost for that simple job!!

 

[icman95]

Replaced mine at around 60k on my 01. It went just as I was backing my 5er into my driveway. That sucked!!

 

[BDaugherty]

The clutch hydraulics died in the exact same way on my '01 a couple weeks ago at 129K. I paid $175 at the dealer for the master cylinder and slave cylinder. I installed it myself in about an hour.

 

[PatD]

Would the symptoms of this being the clutch engaging and then the pedal bleeding off and you not being able to engage or DISENGAGE the transmission? Mine has just started doing this. If I am qwuick enough I can pump it up and it works fine for that shift but if I hold the clutch in the transmission engages by itself after about ten seconds.

Thanks

Pat

 

[darkhorse]

Sounds like it to me.

 

[SRadke]

I replaced one in an 02 today. This one failed suddenly and the clutch would not disengage. New master cylinder was $69 and in stock at the local NAPA. Took about 90 minutes and a third of that was fighting the stupid little clip on the pedal.

-Scott

 

[SRadke]

Pat, yes that is exactly what you have.

-Scott

 

[PatD]

Thanks guys, ordering the parts tomorrow.

Pat

 

[DMcLeod]

I replaced my clutch hydraulics with the South Bend unit a couple of weeks back (160k miles). I began noticing some sponginess in the clutch pedal and more difficulty shifting (like I wasn't getting the full stroke at the master cylinder). Then one day with the clutch held in, the truck lurched forward and almost hit the guy in front of me. It was a pretty simple job to replace - the new unit is completely sealed, and the SB unit has a bit of adjustment at the pedal (search this forum for more info).

 

[MLee]

These units have brake fluid in them and with time moisture gets in the mix and helps to cause the failures, According to the new brake fluid article in the current TDR mag. So this question comes up, is it worth trying to drain and refill with fresh fluid, and save the cost of replacement? I now wish I had keep my old one to experiment with and see if this could be done. Oh well!!

 

[SRadke]

They're really just plastic and rubber components. I can't see traces of water in the brake fluid being catastrophic.

 

[hsmith]

Water in brake fluid is catastrophic. Try this, brake fluid on the hands and wash it off with solvent. Gets real gummy. Wash it off with water and it is gone.

 

[GCroyle]

I remember reading somewhere that water contamination in brakes can be a source of brake fade due to the fluid boiling point being reduced and the resulting "boiling" causes steam/air bubbles. Air bubbles are not helping these types of hydraulic systems.



Fortunately our hydraulics are on the opposite side from the exhaust. Older Fords had insulation heat shields around the S/C to shield it from heat.



Any air in a clutch system will reduce the total available release stroke. Symptoms:

1. Hard to get into gear.

2. Pedal has a soft spot at the top of the push stroke.

3. Truck starts to creep as soon as the pedal gets off of the floor, no reserve release travel.



I think its time to suggest that at any clutch change that the system gets bled by doing the pushback trick that so many have found works so well and easily gets air bubbles out. If you manage to do at least a partial flush and refresh of the DOT 3 that should be helpful also. I read the DOT article in the current issue also, good stuff. Might have been interesting to see an expansion into the field test kits for water %.



We all need a complete system stroke for clutch release.



The following statements applies to all but the OE Self Adjusting Clutch used on the G56, it has different characteristics.

A new clutch is harder for a worn release system to release than the old used intact thinner disc system that you just removed.

It is not pressure related, the new one (part # for part #) has a lower release force than the old one. It relates to the installed spring tip height increasing due to the disc getting thinner. The old one (spring tips) was closer to the transmission due to normal wear. This sorta matches the wear on the release system. The clutch and spring tips are FARTHER away from the transmission, requires a full "as designed" release stroke which may be difficult for the worn reduced total stroke and possible air bubble compromised release system.