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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch master/slave cylinder?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Surging?!?

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I'm hoping that the problem I have been having with my truck is in the clutch hydralics, but I'm not sure. I am on my 3rd clutch. I had the stock one changed at about 8000-10000miles because of performance upgrades. I never had a problem with the stock unit. The 2nd clutch engauged right off the floor. Eventually I could not get the truck in gear at a stop from neutral. Figuring it was clutch drag I was on to my 3rd clutch at about 20000 miles. The 3rd clutch engauged mid-way through pedal travel and it still does at 30000 miles. When the transmission is cold I have no problems getting into gear, but when the transmission is at running temp it's getting extremly difficult if not impossible to get into gear from neutral when stopped. The tranmission doesn't grind, or shift hard when rolling. I did find some fluid seepage at the master cylinder but not enough to have to add fluid. I am getting a new master/slave installed on Thursday under warrenty. Who's betting this will fix the problem?:confused:
 
I don't know. I didn't do any of the clutch jobs myself. The mechanic that did them believes the problem is in the hydralics. If the new master/slave doesn't help, he said he would start to look closer at the clutch. BTW what is the job of the pilot bearing?
 
Cant help you with your problem but how did you get your MS replaced under warranty? Mine is leaking but was told clutch system is not under warranty.



Guess I just figured it was ANOTHER quality Dodge (Doesnt Often Deliver Good Engineering) part, sure wish F**D offered a Cummins or would they be any better :confused: Perhaps that is the plan, all OEM's offer dog poo for quality and then WE have no good choices :confused:
 
Tejas Deezul, the clutch disc and possibly the pressure plate are wear items covered under 1yr/12000 miles but I don't think the hydralic system is considered a wear item.
 
I've been through a lot of different clutches, I've never had a problem with the pedal not disengaging the clutch enough. Most likely it has something to do with the hydraulics.



Trying to remember here, I think there's a cap on the end of the slave rod that pushes on the release arm. If that cap got lost that could be the problem.
 
I had these exact same problems. You can get the slave travel distance value off of Dave Fritz's web site and check yours that way. A new master/slave cylinder didn't help me, other than lighten my wallet. I had to put a new clutch in.



Dan
 
Let me see if I can help you out... ...



The issue here, if the master and slave are working and there is NO air in the system..... than the following should be looked at.....



Lets first understand that if the disc is the correct diameter and the correct splines on the hub it might not be the right disc... . and if the cover bolts to the flywheel it mgiht not be the right cover.....



Also understand that the exact disc or cover with a few modifications will become different part numbers for different applications... ... .



The fingers on the clutch cover are designed to be at a certain working height based on the thickness of the disc when the clutch is installed... ... on a new flywheel... ... . based on application



As the disc wears it becomes thinner... ... as the disc becomes thinner the fingers on the diaphragm move towards the transmission moving the release point on the foot pedal up.....



If you have this basic knowledge you can assume that your cover is either set wrong... ..... the disc is the incorrect thickness..... or a combination of the two.....



We only sell these parts as matched pieces, as a disc that's lets say only . 025" thicker than normal will move the fingers more towards the engine... ... which requires more pedal movement (towards the floor) to fully release the clutch... ...



It the guy who sold you the clutch gave you pieces, instead of matched set in a box this could be your problem... . in addition its possible for the vendor to install the wrong facing on the disc... . grind the pressure plate to the incorrect thickness. etc... ...



Now I've seen enough of these that for me... . the simple answer is to lengthen the shaft thats on the slave cylinder instead of taking the clutch back apart... ... . (we see this a lot from people who want their truck fixed after someone else worked on it)



Now lets talk about the grinding of the flywheel... When the flywheel is ground..... the complete clutch assemlby moves towards the engine... ... which means that the release bearing has to move farther to make the clutch release and this means the pedal moves closer to the floor... ... how many times has your flywheel been ground and how much has been removed... ... do you know.....



Don't buy a spacer to go behind the flywheel..... not a good thing... again do the following... ...



The simple answer is to lengthen the shaft thats on the slave cylinder instead of taking the clutch back apart... ... . (we see this a lot from people who want their truck fixed after someone else worked on it)



Your working with a lever,,,, how much do I lengthen the shaft... . we start with about a 1/4" and adjust from there..... We measure the shaft, cut it and put both ends into a piece of tube, measure it and tack weld it together... ... works for us.....



One last comment..... some shafts that come out of the slave cylinder have a plastic plug on the end of the shaft to work as a lube so that your not metal shaft to metal lever... ... if this plastic boot goes away you've lost some space as well... ... .



I hope I've answered some questions without making this more dificult to understand.....
 
Thanks Jim, you made some good points. The clutch thats is in my truck is a matched set, new clutch and pressure plate. As far as grinding the flywheel I don't know how much was taken off but, I don't think it was alot because of the amount of miles and lack of abuse at the clutch changes. If a new master/slave dosn't work I might go the route you suggested. Thanks
 
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