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Clutch not disengaging?

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Have a friend with a problem with clutch not disengaging enough to put in reverse or sometimes in any gear. 98 5 speed Cummins. I know there is no adjustment,but could it be a hydraulic slave servo going south?Claims if clutch is pumped for awhile it straightens out.

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95 Dodge 2500 Luverne grill guard,headache rack,running boards and Amzoiled. Soon to be mildly bombed. 84 Dodge d-150, 318 Hooker headers,Edelbrok intake,mallory ignition,Carter Afb,Accel coil,and Custom dual exhaust. Boat,fifthwheel,motorcycles,and shop,job to support toys. Yuck...
 
Try pumping the peddle all the way to the floor 50 times and on the 50th time hold the peddle down and have someone crack the bleeder to let the air out then close the bleeder before you let the peddle up. If this helps, repeat procedure until air is gone. It may work on 1st try. If this procedure does not work replace hydrolics. Also make sure fork was installed in the right direction.
 
If the last post is no help.
you did 't say what your friend's miles were! and 2 if he had evere replaced the clutch or any compoents.
Having been there-first time didnt think i had depressed the peddle all the way. a few hundred?? miles latter same problem--some times pumping worked --then NO disengagement,
finaly worked again when i got it home and up in the air I removed the slave cylinder rigged up a push rod lever assy and depressed the clutch fork by hand locked down climbed in the cab fired up and tryed to engaged transmission... Nothing but gear clash.
so that told me not in the hyd's saved big bucks with a little extra time ,as the oem system is still working fine.
The problem i found was theinput shaft needle bearing used. Replaced it with new and it lasted a couple months (about 45k)that failure was a hair raise'r.
Having had the slave cyl out a couple times i don't remember a bleeder.
Make a manual disengagement tool and if it won't release the clutch it's time to pull the transmission and i bet you will find a input shaft pilot bearing that has seen better days
The tool will take about 30 min to fabricate. and you can use the savings to get S. B. 's pilot bushing and if it ever happins again you will know it is the hyd. system.

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.
 
I have a '98 12V with 67k. I am also having troubl getting into reverse especially when it's cold. The clutch seems to be releising fine because once I do get it into gear the friction point feels perfect. But yet when I hold the shifter against the reverse sincro it seems to want to creep in reverse a little so who knows. I have not really tested it all out yet. I hope I don't end up pulling the trany on account of a sticky pilot bearing/bushing.

Mark

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Red '98 12valve 2500 4X4 Quad Cab, Long Bed, SLT, 5-spd Manual, 3. 54, Dana 80 Rear,Camper/Town pkg, 33x12. 50x16. 5, Yet to be Bombed.
 
If you are having troubles getting into rev. as iam not behind the wheel question??Or cure! put it into another gear then into rev. may be as simple as the gears not beeing lined up. NOTE. when the input shaft bearing locks the shaft to the flywheel OR th hyd's fail you are going to shut off the eng -put into gear-then hit the start -if your still holding the clutch pedal to the carpet and the vehical takes off $$$.

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.
 
Flight,If it ends up being a pilot bushing problem, tdrmbrmar is right. We do carry a bushing made out of nylon/kevlar. What happens is the needle brg. dries up and the needles fall out of the casing that retains them. allowing the input shaft to oscillate and hang up. With this action going on it tends to score the shaft. If you put another needle brg. in, the scored shaft will take out the brg. even quicker. The scored shaft can be ran on our brg. without damaging it. This will save $$$ because you will not have to replace the input shaft. The bushing runs $40. A machinest should bore the flywheel for about $50. Peter
 
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