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Clutch Problem

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boost the 250 or move up

Heater problem

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Please help! My friend has an 06 with a recent SB dd clutch installed by Diesel Wurks in Caldwel NJ. His problem is he is having a hard time getting it into gear from a standstill. It grinds and is very difficult to get in gear. Once he is rolling no problem shifting without the clutch. I herd of a TSB for the self adjuster on 06 trucks which is what i am assuming it is, but i am not too familiar with the hydraulic clutch system and i am not sure where the self adjuster is. I looked above the pedal and i saw a rod going from the pedal to a three inch long plastic housing which looks like a sensor with a hole through the middle and a wire plug. I don't think the issue is with the clutch install since its been done seven months ago and by a reputable shop. I doubt it is the transmission very highly. Truck has 35,000 miles. Thanks in advance.
 
Which clutch does he have? The pressure plate is different on the 3200lb the the higher lb units. How long has the clutch been in the truck?



Aaron
 
Seems like this is normal behavior for the dd clutch. I have the 3250lb sprung dd (had both the original lever design clutch pressure plate and the new diaphraghm spring style) and it definitely takes a while (2-3sec) for the lever to "fall" into first while holding it against the gate compared to the stock clutch. It takes a little while to get used to it, but its not bad once you do. How much damage this causes to the first gear synchros I don't know, but I change it up every so often by dropping into 2nd or 4th and then quickly back up to first...

If anyone has a magical fix for this that I've not heard about, I'd love to hear about it though! :D

-Dan
 
seems how he put in a double disk clutch, did he put in a heavy duty cluth upgrade, idk if the stop hydraulics would like the double disk to much.
 
what the he--! are you doing "NOT using the clutch to shift?! these are not semi truck trannys. I can`t beleive that people do not have any better sense. I`m done
 
if you have the heavy duty hydros, then it is an easy adjustment, where the master cylinder linkage connects to the clutch pedal, lengthen it, but not too far as you can overstroke and cause a grinding sound, i run a 3850dd and it is easier to put in gear at a dead stop than while driving, but that is normal due to more rotating mass, takes longer for the synchros to match gear and shaft speeds
 
what the he--! are you doing "NOT using the clutch to shift?! these are not semi truck trannys. I can`t beleive that people do not have any better sense. I`m done


yeah wow, you talk like someone just ran over your cat, easy big dog, you never even started try to help the guy instead of telling him or people have no sense!!!!!

Tcluff has it right if he did the hydros he just needs to adjust it, any DD is not maintence free they do need adjustment especially after 7 months.
 
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There is a simple bleed procedure for the slave..... my guess is that you have some air in the system that won't allow it to full stroke... we carefully hand pump the slave and compress it..... several times until all the bubbles quit bubbling into the master cylinder. .

If the slave has a problem, the bubbles will not stop... as the piston moves back in the slave its drawing air in past the seals... .

But since its only been in a short time I suggest you contact Peter... he's very sensitive about other commenting about his products. .
 
Did you upgrade the hydraulics? If you did, there's a threaded rod that is easily seen if you lay on the floor pan and look up at the clutch pedal. It's as simple as turning this rod to adjust the play.

The early upgraded hydraulics did NOT include a locknut, and so the rod would back off gradually by itself, and half to be continually re-adjusted. If you get good, this can be done on a straight section of road that you feel semi-comfortable reaching under the dash for 5 seconds or so with your eyes off the road :-laf

Actually, I'd recommend getting a locknut and "locking" the adjustment rod in place once you get it dialed in well.

If you go too far, as mentioned before, you'll get kindof a that-that-that-that-that sound in quick repetition. This is from the bolts on the pressure plate making contact with the clutch fork. It doesn't really hurt anything, other than grinding off the bolt heads over time. They do have a high clearance clutch fork available, which may or may not have been included in your SB kit.

--Eric
 
i had the 3250 DD too, and it was tough to get it in gear. this is not a clutch for the faint of heart. that being said, attempting the shift with no clutch is not out of the question. It is doable, and you get used to it pretty quick.
 
i had the 3250 DD too, and it was tough to get it in gear. this is not a clutch for the faint of heart. that being said, attempting the shift with no clutch is not out of the question. It is doable, and you get used to it pretty quick.
I hear this appraisal of the 3250 sometimes and must say that the one I drove,with the exception of the neutral engaged noise was almost stock like in operation. It did require rpm matching downshifting to 2nd at low speed, however. Peter is working on refining another clutch for us g-56 guys.
 
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