Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) clutch questions

[darkhorse]

Trouble seems to come in batches. I seem to be losing the free play in my clutch pedal. It just barley disengages now & is getting difficult to get into reverse. I see no way to adjust it. What is the fix?

 

[BDaugherty]

Sounds like the clutch hydraulics failing. Stock replacement is OK for stock clutch. Upgraded clutches like upgraded hydraulics like what's available from SouthBend.

 

[darkhorse]

Sounds like the clutch hydraulics failing. Stock replacement is OK for stock clutch. Upgraded clutches like upgraded hydraulics like what's available from SouthBend.

I was afraid of that. I was just looking on the SB web site. I didn't find any prices but I've e-mailed their nearest dealer.

 

[SWC]

I just went through the same thing. I agree with BDaugherty.

I had to go with a Dodge unit because from the time I first noticed it to when it quit entirely was about 1 hour of city driving. I would have gone with South Bend if I would have had the time.

Stan

 

[darkhorse]

I just went through the same thing. I agree with BDaugherty.

I had to go with a Dodge unit because from the time I first noticed it to when it quit entirely was about 1 hour of city driving. I would have gone with South Bend if I would have had the time.

Stan

That's pretty scary Stan. Going down so fast. Mine has been very much slower so far. It's been maybe a week since I first thought it was feeling different & I've driven several hundred miles. I did check the fluid level & the reservoir was empty. I added some but it doesn't feel any different.

 

[GCroyle]

Freeplay

Darkhorse,



The clutch release system does not have any freeplay in it by design. The bearing is in constant contact, never leaves the diaphragm spring tips, preloaded by the slave cylinder.



Diagnostics are sometimes challenging on hydraulic systems, if you are having release problems and want to rule out the pedal cluster and hydraulics, look at the cluster as you move the pedal, look for lost motion. Remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing (leave it connected to the hydraulics) use a steering wheel puller or flat bar puller (not 3 jaw) and block the slave cylinder from extending, carefully push on the pedal with your hand, this is not a pressure test yet, if the pedal moves more than just a take up the slack in the system, you might have air in there or leaking, you can apply normal release pressure (about 30 pounds) and see if it bleeds down.



Any history on the clutch?



Good luck.

 

[darkhorse]

Thanks for the tips Gary. When I say "free play" I mean that the pedal needs to be depressed as far as it goes to completely disengage the clutch & the truck will start creeping when the pedal is released just a small fraction of an inch. It seems to have improved very slightly since I added fluid. I had the clutch installed about 3 years ago when the stock unit failed to hold with an EZ & a set of Mach 1. 5's. It's performed flawlessly.

 

[GCroyle]

DH,



Its a lot of work to pull a trans when the problem MIGHT be elsewhere. The pedal/slave blocking technique is not generally taught, I have not seen it in a service manual, but it is very effective.



Several times when clutch failure to release issues come up, the pilot bearing often is found destroyed.



I did this once on a 5 speed. I removed the S/C and installed the same puller that I used into the B/H and used this as a temporary release system. I think the numbers for total travel at the screw would be in the range of 5/8-3/4" at the screw. With the system "released" put it in gear (engine off) and try to turn the d-shaft.



When I test a pedal system or an entire clutch, the total pedal travel gets broken down into 3 phases.



Releasing the clutch, press pedal down.



1st 3rd of travel tightens up the system increases pressure, bearing travel almost releases clutch but not yet.



2nd 3rd, pressure plate moves away from disc, clutch starts release process.



3rd 3rd, clutch released, in reserve release travel zone.



Engage the clutch, pedal comes up.



1st 3rd, reserve travel is reversed, pressure plate starts to move in the direction of the disc, initial contact with disc.



2nd 3rd, the Friction Zone, the pressure plate increases pressure applied to the disc, disc compresses, disc RPM is accelerated up to engine speed.



3rd 3rd, pressure is released completely except for bearing preload applied by S/C.



Your results may vary based on system type, age and wear, disc thickness and "lining spring" extension and compression and the effectiveness of the release system.

 

[darkhorse]

Thanks again Gary. Hearing about these "tricks" is helpful. This truck had a Body transplant last year & the pilot bearing was check at that time. I don't remember if Chris told me he replaced it or not. My good new is that it's gotten better today. Perhaps the fluid I added has taken some time to get to where it needed to be. At any rate, I can wiggle the pedal more before the clutch starts engaging & she slips into R like she used to.

 

[GCroyle]

Want to try something with no effort other than removing 2 bolts?



You said it got better with fluid and time, OK.



Remove the S/C and let it hang down overnight, let the air bubbles flow uphill overnight, then when you are ready to bolt up, first push the S/C pushrod completely into the S/C body several times, slowly.



Might be a bubble in there messing with your system. Don't cost much more than 30 minutes tops.

 

[darkhorse]

Another good tip! Thanks. I'll be trying that the next night we aren't expecting sleet & snow. I'd do it tonight if I didn't have to park out in the weather.

 

[darkhorse]

I'm pretty sure there is air in the line. Been ugly cold & sloppy to get under the truck but I'm going to have to try removing the sc to purge the air. I've placed an order with South Bend for new hydraulics.

 

[jkalchik]

Aside from having to nearly stand on your head finagling that clip on the clutch pedal, I doubt you'll be unhappy with the SBC hydraulic set.

 

[darkhorse]

Thanks Sout Bend

48 hours & Peter's team at South Bend had my new hydraulics on my back porch.

 

[darkhorse]

SB hydaulics are in

Not wishing to lay on the driveway in this winter weather I had a local mechanic install the new hydraulic set. No more leak back. No more pumping the clutch pedal. It slides in & out of all gears like new. Next stop: winter tires. Oo.