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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch recommendations - Please

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine cutting out

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Looks like the TST box has taken a toll on my clutch, slips really bad on 4 or higher. Anyways, here's the golden question: What clutch?



Things to consider:

1) 90% running light load or empty

2) 4-6 trips per year pulling 5er - 11-12k lbs

3) $$$$

4) Truck currently has 135k on it, probably won't keep it more than 5 years

5) I want a buttery smooth clutch that will hold a million hp



I usually tow as a PM2 which should give me about 365hp/720lbs, sometimes kick it up a couple settings, but the EGT's get pretty high.

Running empty I'll roll it up to 5 or so, around 425 hp to play with the ricers and renew the tread on my tires :D



How many of you have gone to the 13" clutch, seems like overkill (did I say that?) for what I using the truck for. Worried the ceramics will be too grabby especially for towing.



Who's using what?



SUGGESTIONS?? COMMENTS??
 
Southbend FE clutch. The little extra $ is well worth having a clutch that will hold up to the additional power. Do it right and do it once.



-Rich
 
I've heard the FE is really grabby... . more so than the OFE that I'm considering.

I know I want the best worlds and probably can't have it, but there's got to be a balance somewhere of holding power, smoothness, and investment dollars.
 
I run an FE and yes, it is a little grabby, but you get use to it. It is a lot less grabby than a PUCK style disk (blew one of those into many pieces after only 40k). The only reason I recomend the FE is if you eventually add more mods, the FE will handle the higher HP and Torque than the OFE.



Believe me, changing that clutch is not something you want to do more than you have to, though the 5-speed is not all that bad to change (compared to a 6-speed).
 
For the power level you have right now, you could use the Con-O, nice and smooth, and less money, rated at 350/700 (I think). If you plan on getting stupid with the power like most guys end up doing, get the OFE. :D :D



Tom



2001. 5 2500 4X4 5-Spd LB QC Black. Catcher ECM, DD Stage-1's, AFE, Bully Dog 4" pipe, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Silencer Ring MIA, JAKE Brake w/shifter switch, Geno's Banjo's, 3 Autometer's on the A-Pillar, Gear Vendor's O/D, Firestone Air Bags, Redline Oil throughout.
 
If you want a good, strong clutch, go with the SB dual disc clutch. It is a little on the high side, but will hold anything you want and will last a long time. The older design was a little grabby, but the new one that Peter came up with is much better. It is what i finally decided to go with because i got tired of pulling out the transmission to mess with different clutches. Plus if you ever decide to do more to your truck, you will be ready for it.
 
"Grabbier than stock," is that pulling a heavy load and trying to back it up, or just running around empty? I can deal with whatever empty, it's pulling the 5er when things start getting hoppity hoppy.



How about the 13", anyone running the 13" version of the Luk, SB, etc??

Peter at SB, and Mark at TST are both "recommending" a 13 for towing anything over 8k, but I don't tow all the time, less than 5 percent probably, so..... do I need to spend the extra $$ (600 extra) for the new flywheel and all? Obviously they're salesman and want to make the sale, need some opinions of you guys that tow.
 
SB CON FE would be best, it's a little grabby but drivable. If your backing up try putting the truck in low range. I tow 8000-12000 lbs with mine and it's durable as hell and very drivable.
 
Supermod56 said:
For the power level you have right now, you could use the Con-O, nice and smooth, and less money, rated at 350/700 (I think). If you plan on getting stupid with the power like most guys end up doing, get the OFE. :D :D



I should be around 365/720, sometimes I'll go to 3 at which is almost 400/825. Are these rated conservatively? The stock luk clutch is only rated to 481. 4 ft/lbs, well stock on these trucks was 460 ft/lbs and many are holding strong at almost 600.



O is rated at 400/900. Think the 13" is necessary, how many here are running it?
 
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I have a stock clutch and tow over 10,000 on a regular basis, hasn't slipped yet, but I really "baby" it so to speak. I'm putting in the Con-O in a couple months. If I had your set-up, just to be safe bolt a OFE in it, don't think you need to go to the 13" clutch, unless your flywheel is smoked, then I would upgrade. I don't plan on any more mods except for the 14cm Turbo housing, RASP and Mach 2's, but that's as far as it will go. :D



Tom



2001. 5 2500 4X4 5-Spd LB QC Black. Catcher ECM, DD Stage-1's, AFE, Bully Dog 4" pipe, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Silencer Ring MIA, JAKE Brake w/shifter switch, Geno's Banjo's, 3 Autometer's on the A-Pillar, Gear Vendor's O/D, Firestone Air Bags, Redline Oil throughout.
 
I've got the SBC OFE, and it is a bit grabby, but liveable. I installed a 2-low kit which eliminated the "wheel hop" while manuvering the trailer. But, there are times when going to 2-low isn't practical (like starting out on a hill), and if the hop gets going just right you'd think something is going to break. Just gotta clutch it and try again with some higher RPMs. Unloaded I can still get the hoppy-hoppy thing going if I'm lazy with a second gear start. I've read about other users installing traction bars to help with/eliminate the wheel hop, which is amplified by spring wrap. I haven't installed a set yet, but I'm planning on it before I pull the 5ver again.



So far, my OFE has held 460hp/930tq (rated for 1000tq). Keep in mind, the higher hp a clutch is rated for, typically the grabbier it will be. The only thing you'd gain by going with a higher-rated clutch is a bit of cusion in the ratings if you plan on adding power later. But you will probably loose some driveablilty.
 
Have the Con-OFE and love it...



Empty driving is smooth and strong...



Towing my 15K 5th is ok when pulling away from stops, a little grabby but I don't just engage it suddenly, I ease it on... .



When backing/positioning my 5th in spots or sudch, I use low range and it does great.
 
claykelly said:
Okay, is everyone towing 5th wheels or heavy trailers using the 13" or did you stick to the 12"?



South Bend will not warrenty a 12" that hauls over 8K lbs if it has probs, and supposedly it will if you do. :eek:
 
Tcolesanti said:
I was just about to say that. -Tom



That it will fail, or that they will not warranty it? Do you think their clutches are more prone to failure if towed with than someone elses?



I can't, no, I refuse to believe that every 2nd gen Cummins I see pulling a 5th wheel has upgraded to a 13" clutch.



Where does the problem lie? Is it from abuse and clutch chatter that knocks out the hub or what? If you can tow like you know how to drive a stick, are you going to have disc failure with the 12?? We're talking about twice the $$ here to upgrade :eek:
 
claykelly said:
I refuse to believe that every 2nd gen Cummins I see pulling a 5th wheel has upgraded to a 13" clutch.



QUOTE]





They are if they have upgraded injectors and are running an aggressive box while towing, or at least they will be before long.



I wouldn't reccomend the con FE if you do much towing, or even much city driving. It is a grabby clutch to say the least.



Matt
 
claykelly said:
I refuse to believe that every 2nd gen Cummins I see pulling a 5th wheel has upgraded to a 13" clutch.



mgoncalves said:
They are if they have upgraded injectors and are running an aggressive box while towing, or at least they will be before long.



I wouldn't reccomend the con FE if you do much towing, or even much city driving. It is a grabby clutch to say the least.



Matt





I agree whole heartedly with Matt, in fact I will call Peter in the AM and get him to put his $. 02 in if he has the time. ;)
 
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