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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch recommendations - Please

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine cutting out

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rkressg said:
Believe me, changing that clutch is not something you want to do more than you have to, though the 5-speed is not all that bad to change (compared to a 6-speed).



Obviously you want to do the job right (with the right parts) the first time. The job in itself is not that bad. I've done two 6 speeds, and I would not even flinch to do another.



Shadetree Clutch Replacement Instructions



I have not done a 5 speed yet, but I would think the process is the same.
 
claykelly said:
That it will fail, or that they will not warranty it? Do you think their clutches are more prone to failure if towed with than someone elses?



I can't, no, I refuse to believe that every 2nd gen Cummins I see pulling a 5th wheel has upgraded to a 13" clutch.



Where does the problem lie? Is it from abuse and clutch chatter that knocks out the hub or what? If you can tow like you know how to drive a stick, are you going to have disc failure with the 12?? We're talking about twice the $$ here to upgrade :eek:





With a stock or lightly modified truck you can tow away with the 12" clutch (within reason) and not rip the center out of the clutch disc. We have found the problem comes when you reach the 650 ft lbs of torque that the problem arrises. If you have a stock clutch in your truck at this level of torque, before the springs in the clutch disc bottom out the clutch will slip. Now, the problem lies when a clutch company such as ourselves inhance the holding capability of the 12" clutch with plate loads and friction materials to stop the clutch from slipping at the higher torques, the torque is put directly through the center of the clutch disc. Throw a heavy trailer behind your truck and add 300 ft lbs of torque to the crank over stock, and the result will be to over compress the springs in the clutch disc. The repetitive bottoming out of the springs WILL eventually break them. We have gone as far as to go to a heavier design and then make heavier springs to try and avoid this problem with no success. The 12" clutch size limits us on the dampening portion of the clutch disc strictly do to size (not enough room). This brings us to the 13" clutch design. NOW there is ample room to put a clutch disc with a heavy duty spring center that can take the added torque coupled with towing. We have even seen the springs break in these units caused by bottoming out but do to the design and over all strength of the clutch disc, it does not rip completely in half and will give you the ability to get to your destination. Whereas when the 12" destructs you are dead in your tracks.



Please believe that this is not a sales pitch to sell every person a more expensive clutch. The 13" clutch upgrade was created by us in desperation do to the 1000's and I mean 1000's of 12" clutch failures.



On anouther note... the new 13" ceramatallic clutch for the 5 speeds that LUK (JUST) came out with is what we have been doing for 3 years now. This might sound like a little bit of a whine :-laf but it figures that the designers of your clutch system waited for little old SBC to figure out a fix and do all the testing (trial and airer, warranties) only to copy what we came up with. They even went as far as to go to my supplier of the feramic material we use on our clutch discs and use their buying power to eliminate us. Thankfully the friction company believes in ethics and also liked the way we pay our bills and told them no. That is is why LUK uses the ceramatallic friction material now.



Peter
 
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See, this is what I appreciate, a vendor coming to our board and helping out. He comes bearing pictures, explanations, and product information. That means a lot and says even more for customer service. :D



The temptation to go with the upgraded stock clutch for $335 is soooo great, but... . I like to do things only 1 time. I'm sure SBC will firmly stand behind their promises of a smooth, strong clutch that will hold up to towing the 5er and all the HP I can throw at it. Therefore I'll be going with the 13" Con OFE. Have to save some pennies first... LOTS OF PENNIES, hope the stock clutch holds out until then.



Now if I could find a set of new or near new 3rd gen chromies w/BFG's I'd be set... . hint hint :-laf
 
South Bend Clutch, let me say I am totally happy with my ConFE . Like some said, its grabby but just back off and try it again with more RPM. Is this the best approach or are you guys coming out with something a little smoother? A couple of Performance shops in my area warned me that the SBC ConFE was grabby and they recommended the Redline. But I stuck with what I learned here on this website and bought yours anyway. I'm not complaining just wondering if grabbiness is just inherent of a good strong clutch?... Jim
 
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