Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) clutch recommendations

[BDaugherty]

Well, I was able to take the wife home from the hospital Sunday afternoon. While she rested, I installed my Con OFE. It was really easier than I thought, but I do have a couple of tips for the do-it-yourselfer.

#1 Get someone to help you line the trans back up. That part is sort of a pain, but also really important to do right.

#2 Be carefull when reinstalling the trans crossmember. I goofed. A hammer knocks it out easy enough, but going back in would have taken more hammering than I was in the mood for. I used a 25 ton ram and a 4x4 to spread the frame rails so that it would slip right in place. It worked great, but I should have removed the crossmember that runs right under the tailshaft of the transfer case. I sheared the bolts off the driver side.



Fortunately, that was the only real error. Everything else went pretty easy. I did find the previous owner's stash of sunflower seeds when I removed the console from around the shifter. My first impression was that it was really smooth with very light pedal pressure. I've got about 40 miles on it with the Juice set on #1. I'll report back after 200 miles and some WOT time. I just hope it stays as smooth as it initially was.

Conclusion: If you're not a well equipped and experienced shadetree mechanic, leave the install to a professional.

 

[NoSeeUm]

I would reccomend an OFE just for the minimal price difference over the O. I have one, it definately hooks but I am able to slip it a bit if I need to. I still remember the pedal pressure being the same or less than the OEM when it first went in. But that has been some time back (40k) so memory is fuzzy now, but I remember thinking at the time how nice it worked in comparison. I do get some "rump rump rump" in rpm as I am letting the clutch out a bit slower and have since day one. This is normal I am told.



Jim

 

[Mad Bomber]

8+ years and 100K no sign of the OFE giving up.

 

[WoosterDiesel]

My vote is for Valair.

 

[Mad Bomber]

I'll report back after 200 miles and some WOT time. SIZE]

The 200 miles should be alot of shifting up and down to get the clutch to seat right.

 

[Mad Bomber]

I remember that conversation. If I would have been a little quicker thinking, I should have asked you for your keys to see how the clutch felt. :-laf



Peter

Note to self,when around Peter hold keys tight:-laf

 

[icman95]

Con-OFE all the way. I pull a 13k toyhauler and called Peter at South Bend before buying to see which one. He told me con-ofe and it's great. My installer recommended getting a new flywheel rather than messing with grinding the old one. Not too many people in my area do it. I think Peter charged me $200 for a brand new one and sent it along with the clutch. Not too bad since the one guy near here that would have done the grinding wanted more than $100. Clutch is great and big difference from stock when pulling a heavy trailer.

 

[Mad Bomber]

Not too bad since the one guy near here that would have done the grinding wanted more than $100. Clutch is great and big difference from stock when pulling a heavy trailer.

WOW 100. 00 to grind a clutch THAT'S ROBBERY

 

[icman95]

Yup, I know. That's what happens when no one else around here does it. It's why my installer told me to forget it and just get a new flywheel. I used to know a guy who had his flywheel ground on a 85 Chevy gasser dually but whoever did it screwed up and took too much off by mistake. Made the whole transmission pretty much useless. The thing was barely driveable according to the owner. I figured I wouldn't risk it. New one is so much easier than worrying about finding someone to do it right.

 

[icman95]

Hey dieselsam59-you might want to look into South Bend's adjustable slave hydraulics in addtion to your clutch. I didn't do it at first and after the clutch was installed it was a bear to change gears. The stock cylinder can't put enough force on the new clutch to fully disengage it. The adjustable one SBC sells fixes the problem. A friend and tdr member isb360 still has his original cylinder, but I'm not sure why it works ok and mine didn't.

 

[PC12Driver]

So the general concensus is that he should get a more expensive and less smooth 450hp-rated clutch for a truck that might see around 300hp, which is well under the less expensive and easier to drive Con-O's rated 350hp.



No offence to anyone, but how does this make sense? If the original poster is being honest about his mods and plans with the truck, why should we push him to get more than he actually needs? Yeah, the OFE is an incredible clutch, but at 300hp it'll hold exactly the same as an O, but with a stickier engagement. Where's the benefit?

 

[Mad Bomber]

Why should we push him to get more than he actually needs? Yeah, the OFE is an incredible clutch, but at 300hp it'll hold exactly the same as an O, but with a stickier engagement. Where's the benefit?

To make sure if in the future want's more. To be safe than sorry. There people in the NW that found out they should have done the OFE the 1st time. The OFE is REAL good on engagement even when backing my travel trailer up hill into my drivway. In reading his post tow 12K+Smarty+275's nuf said.

 

[PC12Driver]

To make sure if in the future want's more. To be safe than sorry. There people in the NW that found out they should have done the OFE the 1st time.

Based on this "safe than sorry" train of thought, he could end up loosing some driveability and a couple hundred bucks for no reason (remember, the 275s and the Smarty were both "might" mods - If the truck stays stock the OFE really doesn't make sense). And conversely, I'm sure there are folks that buy the next size up mod and end up wishing that they hadn't because they never reach the horsepower. (turbos are a prime example of this). Then they end up having to deal with the shortcomings of the mod, without ever using the benefits.



Not everyone is shooting for 500hp. Some folks just want a little more kick with small mods for their tow rig. That's a perfect application for the con-O.

In reading his post tow 12K+Smarty+275's nuf said.

That combo won't make 350hp or 750tq. The con-O will hold that if he's empty or has 24k on back. The engine's torque at the flywheel doesn't change. There's no gain by going with the OFE in this case.



But, with the OFE he'll need to bring up the engagement rpms to smooth out the launch with the trailer. Not the case with the O. Higher engagement rpms means more wear on the clutch. Another reason to probably stay with the O if it fits his horsepower.

 

[16919]

I dont know where you get the notion that an OFE doesnt engage smooth or is sticky? The one that I had was like butter. It only slipped once I was starting to push the power ratings and doing a few 3rd gear launches. I really couldnt tell a difference in engagement from stock once it had a few hundred miles or so on it. I say get the OFE... yeah it might be like 100 or 200 more than the O but should you decide to upgrade you will have wiggle room in the long run. I think you will be happy.

 

[icman95]

I don't do any of the higher rpms or other tricks to engage my OFE. It works just fine empty or loaded. Actually, I had to do the rpm thing with my stock clutch so that I could take off while pulling my toyhauler. The OFE no such thing. Just put it in gear and go. Smooth, no problems.

 

[PC12Driver]

I guess it's luck of the draw then. I know I'm not the only one that has noticed that the OFE is grabbier than stock, and a quick search will back that up. But there are quite a few that say it engages just like stock, so there must be some lucky ones out there. I don't see how a metal-to-metal clutch can be as smooth as an all-orgainc, but apparently it is possible.



Either way, if he's not going to touch 350hp, what does the extra money get him?

 

[Mad Bomber]

I guess it's luck of the draw then. I know I'm not the only one that has noticed that the OFE is grabbier than stock, and a quick search will back that up. But there are quite a few that say it engages just like stock, so there must be some lucky ones out there. I don't see how a metal-to-metal clutch can be as smooth as an all-orgainc, but apparently it is possible.



Either way, if he's not going to touch 350hp, what does the extra money get him?

The OFE is is half Organtic which is like the stocker. If you ever have driven a FE now that's a little sticky and grabby. Hey where is Peter when you need him? I have no increase in RPM's to engage to clutch. IIRC Peter even said it helps to be kinda ruff once in a while on it. I would not want to admit it but maybe I've burned mine some. It's been 8 years and 100k with no sign of giving up. In general I have everything off(Boxes) when I'm driving around town.

 

[Mokerz]

I went with a south bend DD for my hauler. I has a slightly higher spring pressure than stock but it's not bad, grabs similar to a stock clutch and is good for 650HP.

 

[PC12Driver]

The OFE is is half Organtic which is like the stocker. If you ever have driven a FE now that's a little sticky and grabby. Hey where is Peter when you need him? I have no increase in RPM's to engage to clutch. IIRC Peter even said it helps to be kinda ruff once in a while on it. I would not want to admit it but maybe I've burned mine some. It's been 8 years and 100k with no sign of giving up. In general I have everything off(Boxes) when I'm driving around town.

Right. The orgainic half helps to get things rolling, but there is a point in engagement where the iron side will lock down. I'm not going to argue this with you here, since it's been covered many times in the past. Like I said above, do a quick search and you'll find comments like these:

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3

Link 4

Link 5

Link 6



And those would be samples from the first page of search results on the TDR. Look around a bit - there's plenty of posts about it here and on other sites. That's great that you and a few others ended up with smooth-as-stock versions, but that isn't the case for everyone.

 

[Mad Bomber]

Right. The orgainic half helps to get things rolling, but there is a point in engagement where the iron side will lock down. I'm not going to argue this with you here, since it's been covered many times in the past. Like I said above, do a quick search and you'll find comments like these:

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3

Link 4

Link 5

Link 6



And those would be samples from the first page of search results on the TDR. Look around a bit - there's plenty of posts about it here and on other sites. That's great that you and a few others ended up with smooth-as-stock versions, but that isn't the case for everyone.

I'm also not trying to get in a p*ssen match just just sharing info. I wonder if part of smothness could also be some info Peter shared with me about ALWAYS starting in 1st gear,as well it also could a persons driving style. I also can't speak for the D/D clutches that are in the newer trucks.