Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) clutch replacement

[dj]

I just had the nv5600 transmission rebuilt and they replaced the clutch and turned the flywheel. The new clutch pushes harder than the origional and engages too close to the floor. The clutch also grabs during engagement. What could the repair facility have done wrong?



dj

-- email address removed --



01 quad cab; long bed; gauges; nerf bars

 

[Fishin Guide]

Was the clutch an "upgraded" model?



Maybe the clutch rod needs adjustment? You could always upgrade the hydraulics as well.



Dave

 

[HBarlow]

I'd guess the shop that did the work installed an aftermarket clutch assembly with entirely different characteristics. Aftermarket clutches can offer advantages IF you pull extremely heavy loads everyday, or do sled pulls but for most applications the factory original is a better choice for driveability and ease of use.

I'm not a mechanic but I am under the impression that the flywheel should not be "turned" on a lathe for the Dodge Ram w/ Cummins engine. I think Joe Donnelly always stresses "stone turned" which only removes glaze. I had a mechanic friend of Joe's in Nevada install a clutch in my '01 years ago and he didn't turn the flywheel per Joe's instructions. Maybe Joe will see this and reply. Again, I'm no mechanic but I think turning the flywheel will remove the natural factory shape off the flywheel surface and alter engagement.

 

[RShipp]

You have a hydraulic clutch, so there is no adjustment. It may take a few hundred miles to break in.

 

[hsmith]

Flywheels need to be ground flat on a special machine made for this purpose. Minimal amounts being removed may necessitate installing a shim between the flywheel and crank to insure disengagement.

 

[HBarlow]

A friend of mine who was a Dodge dealership mechanic for several years before leaving for a higher paying job working on heavy equipment told me that the flywheel should not be lathe turned on the Dodge Ram application. I have no firsthand knowledge of the issue.

Does anyone have a Dodge shop manual and can quote the facts from the manufacturer?

 

[GCroyle]

DJ,



Possible ideas:



Harder pedal. During most clutch replacements (based on part # for part # replacement) the effort required to push the pedal goes down, this can be explained. For it to go up on a Dodge release system I would look at the release bearing first, not the rotating element the sliding element. The bearing must slide freely on the front bearing retainer. If the grease groove in the bearing was installed dry and was not packed with grease then a higher pedal effort is possible. The fork can be installed "flipped" push rod end to ball stud end. I checked our TSB and the only note we have on this involves noise issues. Hard pedal on the Dodge is not a common complaint, again assuming part # to part # replacement. Also, the OE hydraulic system is self adjusting, much like disc brakes do not have an adjustment.



The pedal stroke range on the Dodge does not have freeplay, period.



The stroke starts creating pressure immediately, releases the clutch (shift) and has some reserve travel at the bottom of the stroke. This is typical. If your clutch engages immediately off of the floor, it could be a hydraulic problem or a clutch problem. I look at the pedal stroke in sections, initial take up, release range and then reserve travel. On engagement, it gives up the reserve travel then enters the friction zone (initial engagement and control) then fully engaged.



Harsh or abrupt engagement could be caused by several sources, not likely to improve with driving.



Flywheels. I know the service manual statement and it has some confusion in it. Resurfacing the Cummins F/W has been a topic of discussion. I think some of the confusion comes from the manual addressing F/W's made by 2 different mfgr's Dodge and Cummins, I think each has their own recipe. Used Cummins F/W's can have hot spots in them that a lathe tool bit will just skip over and not remove, that's why grinding is used to resurface. But grinding may not remove the below the surface hot spot zone.



Good luck.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

There could be several problems. Geometry of the throwout bearing and fork could be off if the flywheel had too much thickness removed. Sometimes you can recover from this mistake by putting a second washer under the pivot ball stud in the bellhousing. Cummins specifies resurfacing the flywheel a minimal amount, up to a few thousandths of an inch, using a Blanchard stone. There is no special contour or magic finish to the stock flywheel. It is flat and the best surface is obtained with a stone, not a tool in a lathe. The other problems are probably characteristics of the particular aftermarket clutch that your installer selected.