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Clutch Replacement

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Guys, A friend of mine with a '99, 2500, 4wd, 5spd & 60K plus miles asked me to write with the hopes of receiving some guidance.

1. Is there a better than stock clutch available for replacement?

2. Is re-surfacing of the flywheel necessary if hot spots are not visible?

3. What is the best brand name pressure plate?

4. Besides using a transmission jack, is there any tips for R&R of the transmission? Frame spreading like the auto's necessary?



Thanks in advance!

Dave
 
Question 1,2,& 3 there is only one answer: http://www.southbendclutch.com/

Talk to Peter, he'll hook you up... literally!



#4, Spreading the frame with a bottle jack is definately required to get the cross member out.

A trany jack is a big plus... unless your built like arnold swartzenager (sp?)



Get yourself a factory service manual. it will clear up allot of questions. Just take your time and pay attention to detail. I just did mine on Friday. Took me about 10 hours including changing the fluid in both the trany & transfer case. A lift sure would have made it allot easier but I guess I just have to be thankfull I had a clean garage with a concrete floor!:rolleyes:
 
When not if he buys the SBC, the Kevlar pilot barring is larger than the original so it has to be bored out and it is a good idea to go ahead and have it machined.



I did mine in the 99 outside on my slanted driveway:mad:, what a PITA. The only way I would do it again is if I had a heated, level Garage with a lift.
 
Hey McClain

I'm doin mine in the morning in a heated garage with a level floor , I have a big floor jack a trans adapter that fits on top, we are looking good , I will have the coffee on for when you arive about 9 am hehehe:-laf :-laf :-laf ... ... ... ... ... ... ..... Kevin
 
I've read others say they need to spread their frame... maybe I'm missing something but the crossmember and seats on the frame are tapered. Once you remove the bolts that secure it, simply raise it slightly and slide it to the rear so it can be dropped down once it clears the the mounting surface. I guess in keeping with the spread the frame idea, if you encounter some resistance, get a 20 lb sledge.
 
Mike you are absolutly right about the cross member:mad: but a little finness goes a long ways, after doing mine I can say that I purchased a trans adapter plate to fit on the end of my big floor jack (4ton) and al I can say is it was great, I pulled the trans and transfer case all in one and the adapter plate has a adjuster for the angle of the trans, it made the job go alot better, if you are going to do your own job buy the adapter fron Northern Hydrolics for 45 bucks it will be some of the best money you spend. also the one other thing I would have done is to do a total lift of the truck by about 6 inches, I think some of those ramps would have been too high ??? I was thinking to cut some 2x8 or 2x10 material... ... ... ... ... ... ... . my . $02... ... ... ..... Kevin
 
transmission jack

I too looked into buying one of the floor jack adaptors on Ebay. Could buy one for $35. 00 but the shipping would have been another $40. 00 so I opted to go to my local rental place and rented a good transmission jack for $18. 00 a day. I figured I'm not doing this everyday so why buy one and have it laying around the garage for years till I would need it again.

I also ran the front tires up on my 12,000 lb ramps. (purchased at Walmart for about $39. 00) I was going to put the rear end up on jack stands but didn't need to. . Had plenty of room to work.
 
Unbolt the rear support from the cross member and lift the trans up a bit. Then remove the rear support from the trans. Now the rear support has rrom to go up first, then out. No frame spreading necssary.
 
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