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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch spline lube

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Spline Lube

A good grade of High Temp wheel bearing lube is a good choice. Apply it to the spline (clean it real good and wire brush it to get all traces of crud, rust, grime and junk off of it) and mainshaft, slide the disc on, remove it, index it, repeat and then wipe off the excess grease. Keep the friction surfaces free of grease, handle by the edges only. You want just enough to coat the spline surfaces. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE ANY TYPE OF ANTI-SEIZE! A-S does not know how to stay put, it will fling out and get on anything in its way including the facings, and it becomes a compound containing glass B-B's that does not stay put. Don't forget to use a brake clean or rubbing alcohol to clean the pressure plate surface and F/W surface.
 
GCroyle said:
A good grade of High Temp wheel bearing lube is a good choice. Apply it to the spline (clean it real good and wire brush it to get all traces of crud, rust, grime and junk off of it) and mainshaft, slide the disc on, remove it, index it, repeat and then wipe off the excess grease. Keep the friction surfaces free of grease, handle by the edges only. You want just enough to coat the spline surfaces. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE ANY TYPE OF ANTI-SEIZE! A-S does not know how to stay put, it will fling out and get on anything in its way including the facings, and it becomes a compound containing glass B-B's that does not stay put. Don't forget to use a brake clean or rubbing alcohol to clean the pressure plate surface and F/W surface.

Good post Gary. I also put a LIGHT coat on the T/O bearing slide and pivot points
 
Fork Keeper Tool

Thanks, Bob.



One more area for a bit of grease is the clutch fork to TOB contact pads. ANYTHING that can reduce the friction that the release system sees results in an easier clutch pedal release load, and a more enjoyable clutch to drive. I sometimes equate the release load story to my old Ford solid axle pick ups with king pins, you knew when they needed greased, and you could tell a big difference after they were freshly greased.



One tool that has helped us on our installations is a short piece of 1/2" angle iron with two holes in it. One lines up with one of the slave cylinder holes, the next lines up with the push rod recess in the fork. You put a 5/16" bolt in the fork hole and lock it with a nut on each side. The bolt applies a little pressure on the fork to hold it in place and on the ball stud while you maneuver the trans in place. Sure beats trying to get the fork back onto the ballstud after the trans is in.
 
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