Clutch ticking saga...

[HHhuntitall]

I heard it when the video started..... sounded like a bent flexplate in an auto or when the flex plate gets bent in on the flywheel/flexplate... . Then I lost it somewhere in there. Almost sounded like the clutch was tapping the bellhousing... ... Could be a gear bevel noise, as stated above..... That would make sense as it gets worse once the oil warms up and thins out.

 

[jclark5810]

That's weird, i hear it every time i push the clutch pedal in. It's like it wavers in tone almost like a bad bearing or something's rubbing? Heaven help me if it's all in my head and i'm losing the rest of my marbles:-laf



My brother is coming to get it today, i'll just have him keep an ear to it and drive the heck out of it. It's got a year on the warranty and if it starts to develop anything greater than the noise i hear now we'll go from there. Thanks for the help fellas!

 

[JHumphries]

Maybe some of your marbles fell into the transmission!

The noise is almost like an exhaust leak at a cylinder on a gasser. It's a high frequency tick.
Unfortunately, I have no idea what could be causing it.

 

[RedRamAndy]

Another idea: I can't recall if there is anything on this clutch that would act like this. But a friend of mine came to me with a ticking in his automatic car. It turned out to be the wrong type of bolt in the flexplate to attach the torque converter. The head was taller that the rest of the bolts and it was lightly scuffing the access plate. Took the plate off and it quit. Then I found the scuff on it and found the tall bolt. Might try looking for something like that?? I'm trying to go for the easy-cheap stuff first here.

 

[GCroyle]

Joe,



Been watching this one, but didn't have a comment until you posted the video.



Pretty sure that the LuK clutch that was installed is from the 2nd Gen NV4500, Sachs was OE on the 1st Gen, 13" cast iron monster. Not ready at all to blame the installed clutch for your noise. A part number could confirm.



I think you stated the same noise has existed with two clutches, correct?



For me the most interesting video started at 52 seconds, you were jabbing the clutch pedal and for me I was hearing the noise being controlled. When you jabbed the pedal you changed the load on the release bearing from slave cylinder preload only to waking up the hydraulic system and just starting to apply hydraulic pressure, was that one of you noise/no noise moments?





At that time the clutch was still engaged, it was not yet released, F/W, clutch cover, disc, pilot bearing and trans drive gear were all still turning as a complete unit. Just as a refresher all of our clutch release bearings are turning if the engine is running, NO free play, the spring in the slave cylinder maintains a slight pressure on the release bearing.





If so, the area that I'm curious about at that time is the condition of the fork, fork pivot stud, push rod (does it have the plastic cap on the end of the p-rod?) and (I really need to check this) but possibly the installation of the fork is wrong with the push rod side swapped with ball stud side. I know it can be done on NV4500 and NV5600, need to check on Getrag's.



The fork has a crown where it touches on the flat pads of the release bearing. IF on wrong, flat spot to flat spot. Also worn forks loose the curved crown with normal wear and use. I need to look at our bulletins to check for Getrag fork flip flop situation.



Good luck,



Gary

 

[jclark5810]

Thank you VERY much Gary for your insight! I'm looking up part numbers right now to see what numbers for Sachs and Luk. I'll Call him to find out what part went in and go from there. There has to be something wrong for it to not make noise with the "old" one and then do it now with the "new" one. Thanks again!

 

[GCroyle]

Joe,



Two more ideas or comments.



Engine off, same pedal excercises, any noises?



I saw you pull the pedal back up with the top of your boot. Two comments. Possible worn pedal arm pin or bushing, not sure how yours is configured. Second, lets say the pedal pin and bushing is all good, no slop. As you allow the clutch pedal to come up, the diaphragm spring pushes the bearing back, bearing pushes fork back, fork pushes slave cylinder back, S/C pushes brake fluid up the line, brake fluid pushes back against master cylinder piston, MC pushes pedal back up. All is good. Yours needed a nudge up, why? One possible is a broken spring inside the MC. How likely, unknown but there is a spring inside the MC between the front of the piston and the MC body, should be strong enough to hold the pedal up and allow the transfer hole to remain open letting fluid flow back into reservoir. One check you can make, just unbolt SC but leave it connected to hydraulic line. Now compress SC fully. You should be easily able to compress SC fully transfering fluid from SC to MC and reservoir. If you cannot compress SC that tells us that the transfer port is blocked off.



Gary

 

[jclark5810]

Excellent info Gary. As far as the pedal, i think i may have done that subconsciously just to ensure it was all the way up, but now that you mention that I'm curious. I've often wondered about the hydraulics and if they may have something to do with it. If it's not releasing completely or possibly hanging up somewhere that could cause something. The truck is with my brother now but I'll forward the information and see what we can come up with. The slave looks well worn.