Clutch Time

[04blackcherry]

Just a note to say I finally had to replace the stock clutch in my 04. The throwout bearing was dry and the pilot bearing was toast. Throwout was eating into the clutch fingers. Got lucky as pilot gave out as I pulled into the driveway. The flywheel and pressure plate looked brand new. Clutch was down to the bottom of the slots.

I don't tow anything heavy. I try not to sit at lights with it in gear. Never slip it on purpose, don't have a tuner. I drive 100 miles a day on the highway, so that helps longevity. Have around 270,000 miles on the truck. Am going to replace it with stock replacements of all parts and hydraulics.

That NV5600 is HEAVY. Strap it to the trans jack before pulling it out. Found out the engine is nose heavy so the bottle jack goes in the front to stabilize it and tilt for aligning the trans back in. Not as bad of a job as I though it would be up to this point. My work area is gravel with a piece of strand board under the jack.

So there is hope for those without a heated shop.

 

[AH64ID]

That's a great life for a clutch!

I would seriously consider the Con-OHD clutch from South Bend Clutch. Its a much smoother clutch than the stock clutch was.

 

[petersonj]

The throwout bearing was dry and the pilot bearing was toast. Throwout was eating into the clutch fingers. Got lucky as pilot gave out as I pulled into the driveway.

That is a very similar condition that my original clutch was in at 297,000 miles except that the pilot bearing had spit out the needles. The throw-out bearing was getting dry and was eating into some of the diaphragm fingers on one side. The flywheel and pressure plate were in good condition and the clutch disc was at the end of its service life.

I replaced every thing including a new flywheel with a LUK kit from Napa. I chose to do so because the OEM clutch is LUK and it held up very well.

I decided not to replace the hydraulics since I could do that repair at any time. For awhile I thought I might have made a bad decision because after the clutch install, clutch engagement was occurring with the pedal just off of the floor. However, after driving the truck for about a month, the clutch engagement position went back to normal. I have about 12,000 miles on the new clutch and all is well using the Smarty tuner with RV275 injectors and towing. Clutch pedal engagement is still very smooth.

Good to hear that you got a long life from your OEM clutch. Obviously, you must use some good driving and shifting techniques.

- John

 

[04blackcherry]

Well, the clutch is another story. Ordered the Luk from Amazon. Came with box destroyed and missing the pilot bearing and alignment tool. The flywheel, pressure plate and clutch were loose in the box. The only survivor was the throwout bearing. Both flywheel and pressure plate were dinged up. The clutch plate had a chunk out of it. Was told initially that I had to pay to ship it back. Amazon stepped in and sent me a prepaid label. Sourced a Luk kit from NAPA locally. My local NAPA is awesome. It was the exact same kit in a NAPA box.

I've though about the South Bend for a while. The thing is; every time I've though about having to go aftermarket with parts, most of the time I end up going OEM (don't look at my signature). I've been happy with that. The truck is an HO, 6-speed. I use it for hauling firewood and the camper. I think I'm good. I love that damn thing.

 

[EricViviano]

Most people who install a south bend/valair clutch have no actual need for one that heavy duty.

LuK has always held up well for me over the years and they have a nice feel. RockAuto usually has the best price on LuK. I had a clutch arrive from PartsGeek just like you described.

 

[04blackcherry]

I found the master cylinder on the hydraulics was leaking too.

 

[Silver Tex]

Most people who install a south bend/valair clutch have no actual need for one that heavy duty.

LuK has always held up well for me over the years and they have a nice feel. RockAuto usually has the best price on LuK. I had a clutch arrive from PartsGeek just like you described.

Hi Eric,
I realize this is an older thread and am curious about what limitation or perhaps strengths, the stock clutch may have? I’m specifically referencing your quote above regarding “most people...have no actual need...”. I am contemplating a Valair, duel disk setup for my 06’ 6 speed. It is primarily for pulling my 12K# 5ver. I’m interested in your view.
Thanks,
Scott.

 

[AH64ID]

Hi Eric,
I realize this is an older thread and am curious about what limitation or perhaps strengths, the stock clutch may have? I’m specifically referencing your quote above regarding “most people...have no actual need...”. I am contemplating a Valair, duel disk setup for my 06’ 6 speed. It is primarily for pulling my 12K# 5ver. I’m interested in your view.
Thanks,
Scott.

What have you done for power increases?

 

[Silver Tex]

What have you done for power increases?

Thanks AH...for the reminder to include relevant information.
Stage .5 BBi injectors, higher flow air filter, smarty touch. I’ve been running the touch on the number 5 setting which has provide a nice mileage kick and certainly good power. I’m setting this up primarily as a tow vehicle. It also periodically pulls a 10K# dump trailer, that I am ashamed to admit might be just a tad overloaded at times.

Also any input on when to know to replace the clutch is appreciated. No odd noises or misbehaving to speak of. Any replacement now, might simply be preemptive rather than immediately necessary. I’m not aware of any observation ports, perhaps there are. Pull the hydraulics and use a bore scope to take a peak????

I’ve got 114K on clock and am not real sure of the clutch condition. Had it down for a shifter detent replacement at ~80K and everything, including the gears looked good then. I don’t abuse the truck. Have looked for some info on “testing” methods, sounds and noises. My 93 simply started to “hop” (slip/grab/slip/grab) when backing up with a load. It did turn out it needed the clutch.

Appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks,
Scott.