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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch to buy?

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my truck has slipped a few times when running hard up a steep hill and under load. i sense a new clutch here in the future...



i don't need anything supersized heavy duty that's fit for a semi. no racing or regular towing, i drive it to and from school/work in a fairly conservative manner (fuel is too expensive to run around town full power).



what do you guys and gals suggest for my application, that's the best bang for the buck? i am not sure where to start (brand, hp i should get, etc) as this is my first 5spd truck.





thanks,

~tiffany
 
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This question is like asking what brand oil to use. I went with Southbend myself and have been very happy with it.
 
i agree with the above, unfourtunatly they are not exactly cheap but they are worth it. with your current set up, you would be fine with the South bend ofe, but if you plan on more power in the near future, i would think about the FE. Takes a little getting used to because its pretty grabby, but i drive mine everyday and it doesn't bother me
 
I'm a believer in only buying as much clutch as you need. As the horsepower rating of a clutch goes up, the driveability usually goes down. To hold the higher horsepower, the clutch needs to be made of a "stickier" material, which is good. The downside being that the stickier plates don't like to slip, and the engagement on launch will be much more sudden. That's not bad for running around unloaded/solo, but while manuvering a trailer you can get a hop going so bad that you'd swear something will break.



With my OFE (half orgainic/half iron - good for 450hp), I'll get a little bit of cusioning to get the truck rolling as the orgainic side engages, but when the rpms get close the iron side locks down and the truck will jerk. A Con-FE clutch is all iron (good for 500hp), so by its nature its not as forgiving as something with orgainic facings. The all orgainic version (a Con-O, 400hp) would be the smoothest of the bunch (and least expensive), but it also would be right on the edge of the horsepower of your injectors and chip. If you're planning on pulling something like say, a horse trailer, then this would probably be the direction you'll want to go.



I do agree with everyone above about South Bend Clutch. Give Peter a call (800-988-4345) and tell him how you use your truck. He'll point you in the right direction.
 
I tow horses with my South Bend OFE. I find it as smooth as the stock clutch it replaced & it slips not a bit with the modest :rolleyes: mods I have.
 
thanks guys, for the pointer in the right direction. much appreciated. my experience with clutches is *zero* bc all of my other vehicles that i have worked on have been AT jacked up 4x4 gas burners.



with that zero experience being thrown out there, i have one more question... which may sound pretty silly to you all, so go easy on me :eek:



when the clutch is getting down to the last bits of life does it not totally slip (so much that the driver can feel the loss of grip) but to not hold as well resulting in a loss of power? unless i am a vehicular-hypochondriac, i'm pretty sure the truck doesn't quite have the same launch that it did when you really get on it as it did roughly a year ago. it seems to be getting worse too... i can't think of anything else that could be causing that, all else on it is running and sounding fine.



while the truck hasn't has only had modest upgrades, hell i liked the way it ran. please let me know if you think i am off base here and what else may be causing this.



any and all input is welcomed and appreciated!



~t
 
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Most of the time when a clutch starts slipping, it will slip either when your towing heavy or getting on it good in high gear, 4th or 5th. Not so much on take off.



Scott
 
i'm sorry, i explained that poorly. i meant that when i really get on it, especially noticable when in 4th and 5th getting on the interstate, it doesn't seem to have the same punch that it used to. it's also does not feel as powerful in 3rd in the normal power band. take off from standstill seems the same.
 
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When accelerating as you describe, watch the tach and the speedo. They should move together. Maybe not at the same rate, but at the same time. If the tach takes off and the speed doesn't increase then your clutch is slipping or your tires are spinning. Ones a good thing, ones a bad thing. ;)



Scott
 
i'd checked it a few times getting on the interstate. the on ramps i usually do this on are straightaways with and upgrade. and there have been slips... lol but i can never tell if its that clutch or the rough road :confused: tomorrow i'll run it on the interstate in a smooth part and see what happens.



thxy
 
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i'd checked it a few times getting on the interstate. the on ramps i usually do this on are straightaways with and upgrade. and there have been slips... lol but i can never tell if its that damn clutch or the damn rough road :confused: tomorrow i'll run it on the interstate in a smooth part and see what happens. thxy



Get your truck in OD on a long steep hill at the trucks peak TQ. Floor it and watch for a difference between the tack and speedo. Thats how I found my stocker slipping. Towing something heave helps too:D
 
Another option to South Bend ( I do praise very highly, by the way), if don't tow heavy, is CenterForce. I have one on my truck that doesn't pull more than about 6000-8000 at any given time. I've also got a few add ons that boosted output, at the engine, to 300 h-p. With 285/75 tires and 100000 on the CenterForce i've had no slips on the clutch under any condition. Just an option.
 
I run a Zoom ZVT for daily driving. No racing or sled pulling. Works for me. Avaliable at NAPA and Advanced.
 
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