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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch, to install it myself or .... (long)

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 370 Marine cam or not

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine Hiccup During Hard Acceleration

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I've been searching threads and reading about clutch installs for the last 3 hours and haven't really answered any of my questions. I would like to install a SouthBend Con OFE, 13. 5" (re-surfaced flywheel come with the kit) myself, so here goes.



For those of you that have done your own clutch installs (SouthBend), would you do it again or pay the extra money and have a shop do it.



I have done several clutches in the past and have the right tools but I'm afraid they may be to small, transmission jack for one.



How hard is the install and how long did it take?



I've also read about the pedal issues, most seemed to be fixed by either replacing the hydraulics system ($300) or messing with pedal or slave cylinder rod (free if you have the tools to do it). Is this a problem with all installs?



Any information would be great, I have a thick skin so post whatever advice you got.



Garrett
 
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when the time comes(which will be very soon) im not doing it in my driveway. im more than capable, and have all the required tools... . well, no transmission jack. im not about to wrestle a 350# transmition out from under my junk. just my . 02 cents.



<<<<<<Alex>>>>>>
 
Thanks guys for the replies

Fueler, that about were I'm at. On the fence and the wind is a blowin'. I usually do most things myself but man that trans + tcase is HUGE.



Garrett
 
Dude pay to have it installed or have some help around I have changed two clutches, just got done with one (just an hr ago) and it sucks to say the least doing it by your self, it is a lot of trans to wrestle with and I think it is way more than 350# I am thinking about 600# but don't quote me. I left trans/transfer case together and front drive shaft. First one was a 6hr job this last one was a 8hr marathon of fun, mostly due to adjustments needed to install the clutch. I am thinking that D C could have come up with a better way of mounting the cross member. I think it is pretty easy to get air in the hydraulics when removing the slave cylinder. Good Luck if you choose to do the job your self and if in need of a trans jack places like A to Z Rentall rent them out cheap like $28 a day or so.



Craig
 
Thanks...

Thats the kind of info I was looking for.



So how much monkeyin' around does it take to get the clutch adjusted? ie. bend petal, grind slave cylinder rod and maybe for good measure hold togue to the left.



Garrett
 
I changed mine with no help at all. I bought a transmission lift from Harbor Freight, $79. I did remove the T-case from the transmission. That made it much easier to work with. Removing the case is quick and easy. The transmission will try to rotate to the drivers side if you leave the case attached. I had no problems getting the cross member out. I went to an 13" FE, so I had to replace the flywheel. It was a little difficult trying to lift the 60 lb. wheel up in place while getting a bolt started. The other problem I had was getting the input shaft to line up as I was going in with the transmission. Lots of wrestling. Finally got it. Took me 8 hours. I will do it again if the time comes.



MikeD
 
GO FOR IT!



I use a buddy. My friend and I can R&R a clutch in one of these rigs an about 3 1/2 hours. Assuming that the flywheel is already there ready to go in. (Add another hour or so if I have to go have it ground) I have only done seven of these so far so I am definately NOT an expert on the subject. This is just what I have run across in the installs.



There are only two spots I have ever had trouble with. One is the cross member. I take loose the lines on the driver side frame rail and use a hydraulic ram to SLIGHTLY spread the frame so there is a little room to work and move the crossmember. I use a BFH (big hammer) and knock it up, then back and it comes right out.



The other one is remembering that there are two harness loops attached to the top of the transmission for the 4wd and reverse lights that need to come off before the transmission can drop.



I also tried to just remove the shifter on my first clutch. I quickly realized that you need to take the whole assembly off (Put it in neutral first or else you will hate life when you attempt to put it back in)



Other than that it is pretty much straight forward. I prefer to drop the carrier bearing with the bracket but you can remove it from the bracket down. When you pull the rear driveshaft you will have a little ATF come out of the rear. I take off the front drive shaft so I dont fight it when working later. If you have a buddy leave the t-case attached. I use a standard floor jack but a stout transmission jack would be great. (Just too lazy to rent/buy one) Use the buddy to guide it and keep it from tipping while on the way up and down.



Also, if you have the means use the stuff you breath for something that God intended it to be used for. AIR TOOLS!!! Makes life a lot easier.



Also, dont skimp on the lock-tite. Give the pressure plate bolts and the flywheel bolts some before you torque them down.



If you have any questions PM me or shoot me an E-mail at moparman_02@msn.com



Hope this helps.

Mark Smith
 
My time will come soon and I WAS going to do it myself (with my wife/partner's able help) but I can't close the door behind the truck if it's inside and my driveway has that stupid little rock texture that makes creepers hard to roll. I think that I've decided that I don't want to risk the chance of that rock keeping a trans. jack from moving easy when I need it to move.



The point of this diatribe is: think about every possible hassle before you go trying to manuever that monster trans. Sometimes saving money just ain't worth

it.
 
Thanks

Mike and Mark,

Did you guys have any petal problems after the install? Where was the petal as far when the clutch engaged / disengaged?



KRS

I've got a large two car with compressor and other stuff. I wouldn't of even considered doin' it in the dirt. Did that kind of stuff when I was real young and stupid and got a broken hand out of the deal.





Garrett
 
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Clutch

Garrett,I put in a south bend OFE in mine after it was in I had no issuses BUT the clutch WAS so soft that I thought that we missed something but everything was great:D Eric
 
Thanks

Eric,

When you say "Soft" was the petal real easy to push. I've read that the petal pressure is like the 2001. 5 and up. Alot easier than the 99, which feel awhole lot different.



Garrett
 
More questions (sorry)

Eric,

How do ya like backing up with that OFE. Is it a pain in the #@% when you have any weight on the truck?



Garrett
 
Re: Thanks

Originally posted by greyghost

Eric,

When you say "Soft" was the petal real easy to push. I've read that the petal pressure is like the 2001. 5 and up. Alot easier than the 99, which feel awhole lot different.



Garrett



Yep Garrett I can vouch for that. I allmost Swung Wheaties Clutch pedal thru the firewall and kicked the fuel filter Because I was expecting this huge honkin pedal effort... ... . It just wasn't so :cool:
 
Re: Re: Thanks

Originally posted by ToolManTimTaylor

Yep Garrett I can vouch for that. I allmost Swung Wheaties Clutch pedal thru the firewall and kicked the fuel filter Because I was expecting this huge honkin pedal effort... ... . It just wasn't so :cool:



Thats Awesome :cool:



Garrett
 
Clutch

Garrett,backing the travel trailer up my driveway is not that big of deal. I do admitt that you do have to get used to it,but after that it's no big deal. BTW we are here to help you,so questions are good because we all learn all the time. Eric
 
Its not to big of a job

I have changed my clutch two times and had my trans rebuilt once. The first clutch was in front of a buddies trailer house on a concrete slab. I was ten hours from home so it was an easy decision. I used a small floor jack and one guy helping. In the dark it took about two hours to get it out. It is easier to lift the transfer case by hand, since it doesn't balance on a floor jack well. Even the third time when I had a trans jack, I still put the transfer case on by hand. I didn't have any problems with the slave cylinder any time. Just unbolt it and put it to the side. As for the cross-member, once we figured out the taper to the frame it was easy, just have to watch the fuel lines. My third time I had the clutch replaced in about 4 hours, by myself, not including grinding the flywheel.
 
greyghost,



I wasn't talking about dirt. The cement has pebbles for texture cast into it by the previous owner of my farm and those little rocks hang the wheels of creepers and jacks just enough to be a hazard when rolling heavy pieces on something as precarious as a trans. jack.



When I brought my 2800 lb. Bridgeport mill in on my air operated 5 ton cherry picker one of those little damned rocks stopped a wheel just as we were going through the door and darned near tipped the mill out of the balance it had to have.

Again, the point is: consider every possible error and condition in making the decision to do or not do a job.
 
Thanks

Eric, thanks. The Con OFE is being ordered next week and the install (myself) once it gets here. By looking at your profile did you get one of the early 6 speeds or did you swap from the 5 speed. I've got the 5 speed and the 1. 25 input shaft, and for the money upgrading to the HO clutch (13" vs 12. 25") looks like the best deal.

And yes I'm calling Peter right know.



TBrown,

In the DARK, some of man best work is done in the DARK





KRS.

Gotcha. We had a Bridgeport mill delivered to my work (bought at an auction), well the millwrights dropped it off the back of their load gate, about 3ft in the air. When it hit the ground it made several huge dents in the parking lot. "OOOPS" says one of them.





Garrett.
 
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