Archived Clutch won't disengage......

[BigPapa]

1995 2500 2WD. Came with an auto, converted to NV4500 @100K miles ago and put in an SBC Con-O. No problems.



Driving to work this morning I got stuck in stop and go traffic for about 30 minutes. Finally got rolling and when I went to shift from 3rd to 4th it didn't want to shift. Pulled over and the clutch will not disengage. Transmission is shifting fine. I can start it in 1st gear and "speed shift".



The master cylinder is full of fluid and the pedal feels normal.



HELP!!!:{ :{ :{



Scott

 

[AndyMan]

Uh Oh.



Not exactly sure what it could be. If it were me, I would start by unbolting the slave cylinder from the bellhousing. Have someone lightly depress clutch pedal JUST a LITLE ways. See if it's moving. I wouldn't wanna bet money on it, but I'd hope the hydraulic assembley is the problem. Other issues could be a bent/broken release fork, destroyed throwout bearing? Or maybe release fingers on the pressure plate arent' functioning. other than that, I dunno.



Could also possibly be air in the hydraulics? Gary once told me to use a steering wheel puller to keep the slave cylinder piston from extending, and pump the pedal with the master cylinder lid off. Allow the weight of the puller to hold the cylinder/hydro line straightdown from the master cylinder.



Gimmie a call if you need a ride after work. I'll come get ya.



Hope that helps some.

Andy

 

[BigPapa]

Thanks Andy.



I got it to Joe's and we pulled the transmission out. The hub on the clutch plate had broken and one of the springs had come out and it and the piece of the plate that broke off were wedged in and wouldn't let it disengage. SBC's sending a new clutch plate to Joe's for a little bit of nothing and you know Joe, he's fixing me up on the labor. Barry from across the street from Joe even loaned me a truck to drive. What better frinds can a man ask for?



Scott

 

[AndyMan]

Man, I've never heard of a failure like that. Crazy!



Glad you're getting it back on the road.

 

[BigPapa]

It's actually a pretty common failure with a stock clutch. I haven't heard of it with an SBC but I guess since they are using basically stock parts as their foundations it can happen. They're really helping me out though. I'll get some pics up after I go to pick it up. I was pleasantly surprised that there were no signs of slippage on the old Con-O. I don't know where I am power-wise with my truck but I'd say I'm pushing the limits on what the Con-O is rated for.



Scott

 

[rkressg]

I exploded a TST clutch like that about 3 years ago. I never found all the springs from the clutch when I pulled the transmission. When I pulled back the transmission, you could hear all the parts fall to the bottom of the pressure plate.

After that, I was able to keep a SBC FE for about 2 years, then I needed to upgrade to a SBC 3850 12-CB.

 

[Dieselnut59]

I have had that problem out of TWO South Bend and two stock clutches. Bad thing is, they DO NOT BACK THEM UP! I have had NO problem with the CON/OFE South Bend 13" clutches I now run. The factory clutch hubs are junk. Unfortunately, the "stock replacement" that South Bend uses is equally as junky (PLASTIC guide "bushings" in the hub!!!). Also, if your pilot bearing fails, it will allow the shaft to "wobble" which will place even worse torsional load on the already flimsy hub and destroy it. The later model 5500's (5-speeds) seem to be even worse, as both the twice failed clutches I experienced were both '98 12 valves.

Get the 13" South Bends with the machined in ball bearing pilot bearing. No problems with this setup and I love those clutches. I have one in my '96 and my '98 work truck.

 

[BigPapa]

I'm with you Nut.



Hind sight's 20/20. My pressure plate and flywheel were fine so I called SBC and they sold me a new plate. I thought that was a pretty good deal. Maybe when this one goes out I'll have enough money for the upgrade.



Scott