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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) CMP or CKP

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I have a 2000 Ram 3500 and the other day I got the zero tach reading etc. and I checked the codes and got 336, 602, and 1693. I know the 336 refers to the CKP, but I thought I only had the CMP. I know some 2000's have both, but can you tell by looking from the top? I changed out the CMP, "what a job" and I thought all was well until today and the tach went dead again and I got the same codes. Do I have to remove the starter to see if I have a CKP? As often as this happens I know one of you guys have gone through the same thing. Let me know and thanks in advance.
 
Hey Dan. I also have a 2000 and about a week ago I had problems with the tach bouncing around or not working at all for about 3 days. On day 3 the engine started missing until it quit running all together. I figured it was the ckp because from what I read the cmp is used for diagnoses only and the ckp ran the tach. If you write down your engine serial number on the side of the gear case on the tag and give it to a cummins dealer they can tell you when and where your engine was built and other interesting stuff. My engine was built in Nov. of 1999 and I had both the cmp and ckp. I replaced the ckp and the truck still didn't start but the tach worked again. Long story short after I replaced the cmp and the ckp the engine still didn't start. It just so happens that my VP-44 died at the same time as my problems with the tach. :mad: That turned out to be a bad weekend for me. So my guess is that you have both sensors and in order to tell either go to the cummins dealer with your engine serial number or pull your starter and look on the block where your dipstick goes in and you will see it there if you have one. Sorry for the long post. I just hope it helped. Let me know. Good luck
 
Jaytman, Thanks for the advise. I looked at some of the other posts on here and it looks like you may be able to see the connector from the bottom side of the starter. It will be interesting to find out that information from the s/n anyway. I replaced the injection pump a couple of years ago then did the l/p relocation and added gauges. Thanks
 
If you happen to have a crank sensor, do yourself a favor and let the engine be warm when you replace it. I did a crank sensor in my truck and ended up taking me 3 hrs to do it. My mistake was letting the engine cold. The d*** sensor broke into a million pieces and took forever to remove. Just a word of advice. :)
 
I agree with ALepley. I would def start spraying wd-40 or some other penetrant on the ckp. I've heard other horror stories about them breaking off. I did mine in a Target parking lot on a 25* day laying on cold wet asphalt and she came out right away without penetrant or the block being warm. Looks like I got lucky as far as the ckp goes. To bad I couldn't say that about the rest of my day :)
 
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