Code P0088... bad rattle after replacing everything

[Ozymandias]

50$ for Alfa OBD and 79$ for the OBDlink MX.
That's all you need.

The real fun part is that ALFA OBD is the most capable Software you can buy for money. Better then everything else a side from the wiYech the Dealer has.

 

[cerberusiam]

If that is the stock setup you have a rather rare combo with an HO engine and an auto trans. If the gear selector lights on the dash all work, t-case engagement light works and there is not a large patched hole in the trans tunnel then it may be stock. That leaves the ECM or tuning as the root of the issue. If someone botched a tune load or left the FCA in test mode or the ECM just went bad you will need an ECM. Dealer is going to hook up to it and likely tell you a new ECM is needed, that will be $2400 plus installation please.

You need some type of ScanTool to see what is going on or take it to the dealer. Trouble is you cannot drive it like it is and getting it back without costing a bunch of money might be an issue. Most of these scanner cannot write programs back, you are probably better off investing in a tuner suite than just a scan tool. For the money HP Tuners is about the best to get, once you buy the credits you manipulate everything in the ECM and run the scan tests.

Your choice on how deep you yourself want to dig into things.

 

[Supa]

Based on everything you said, the truck appears to be stock. I tried to take the ECM connectors off and the hex-head bolt at the front of the engine was loosely spinning (maybe stripped) and it won't come out. It does lead me to believe that someone had removed the ECM to do some "work" on it... probably swapped it with a used one (knowing a lot of these backyard mechanics here in Hawaii)... and it's likely it may have a glitch or two.

If I knew more about the truck's history and felt better about putting more time and $$ into it, I'd keep on down the "rabbit hole" of troubleshooting and maybe even get a tuner as you recommend. At this point we have a long laundry list of things that need to be done (leaky radiator, rusty muffler, bad rear rotors, injector knock, loose steering, etc)... and the fuel return line on the fuel tank just sprung a leak yesterday! Now we need to find a way to get that entire fuel return line shipped to Hawaii before we can even take the truck to the dealer to look at the injector knock. Man, it's starting to feel like the thing is cursed. I think I'll start a new post about that fuel line next... any of y'all know if we can just replace the connector itself rather than the entire fuel return line? The line is backordered for weeks...

 

[DavidC]

I do not know about yours but on mine I removed the whole connector assembly back to the steel line and replaced with worm clamps and diesel rated hose. The original stuff came off real easy like peeling a potatoe on the steel line then it just peeled off.

 

[Supa]

I do not know about yours but on mine I removed the whole connector assembly back to the steel line and replaced with worm clamps and diesel rated hose. The original stuff came off real easy like peeling a potatoe on the steel line then it just peeled off.

Hmm, that's an idea for sure! Thanks for chiming in! So you felt OK with using a hose clamp with a rubber hose over the plastic fitting that goes into the top of the fuel pump? I just got the feeling (and I think I read a warning on the FASS install document) that it wouldn't be good to use that kind of clamp over a plastic nozzle.

 

[HPSimpson]

Since the fitting is plastic are you able short metal tube over the plastic fitting and gentle install rubber hose with two metal clamps, don't be gorilla and over tighten.

 

[DavidC]

Had no problem, just snugged the hose.

 

[DavidC]

Not sure why it would be a bad thing, the radiator is plastic.

 

[Supa]

Thanks everyone! We figured out the fuel line connector issue... I'll see what we figure out either with a scan tool or as a backup we made an appointment with the dealer for next Tuesday... fingers crossed!

 

[User113]

If that is the stock setup you have a rather rare combo with an HO engine and an auto trans. If the gear selector lights on the dash all work, t-case engagement light works and there is not a large patched hole in the trans tunnel then it may be stock. That leaves the ECM or tuning as the root of the issue. If someone botched a tune load or left the FCA in test mode or the ECM just went bad you will need an ECM. Dealer is going to hook up to it and likely tell you a new ECM is needed, that will be $2400 plus installation please.

Supa, good news.

Your truck has the 305 HP engine, NOT the 325, see the sticker on the crankcase breather cover you posted above. That means it is not all that rare a bird after all.

In case you didn't know, 2004 was a "split year"; models with the 8th VIN digit "C" are either the 305 HP (built during 2003, aka "early" 2004 models) or the 325 HP engines (built in 2004, aka 2004.5 models) and both are referred to as High Output engines to distinguish them from the 235 HP California engines which had a "6" in that part of the VIN. The 2004 trucks built before 01/01/2004 routinely came with the 48RE and a high output 305 HP engine, so it most likely came that way and has not been modified, therefore the ECM most likely has the correct programming, so that is one less item to worry about.

Good luck with the dealer's diagnosis. But before you drop a lot of coin at the dealer's you should probably run that diagnosis past the forum for a second opinion.

 

[Supa]

Glad to know our truck isn't some weird FRANKENSTEIN monster... Anyway, as luck would have it, the dealer JUST called with their diagnosis! They kept the car two nights and had to talk with some global support department to cross reference the issue as they couldn't figure it out on their own apparently. Their final diagnosis... (drum roll please)... the high pressure fuel pump!

It was one of those things I kind of expected... well, either that or a bent rod. It looks like we can get a remanufactured CP3 pump for about $500 on up. Pensacola Diesel seems to be the best price/warranty/deal. Any suggestions on how to proceed here? One company or reman model better than another? Is the install fairly straight-forward or should we see if our mechanic would be better suited to tackle the job? Trying to save a few $$ but not burn through a few days trying to do it ourselves.

Thanks!!

 

[Killer223]

Check the build date again, on the driver side door end at the bottom, look for Date of MFR. It will xx-xx format not with a day in it. The build sheet says it has a 48RE, that did not start shipping until 01-04 in the Federal trucks with the 325\600 engine. Either this is the case of the VIN being wrong or you got the wrong build date. Since they don't list HP on the build sheet just HO engine that could be a 305 or 325, but, a 305 in 09-03 was manual gear box only.

That information is not correct, my build date is 9-03 I have a 305HP and 48RE. truck is sold an an 04.

 

[Killer223]

Glad to know our truck isn't some weird FRANKENSTEIN monster... Anyway, as luck would have it, the dealer JUST called with their diagnosis! They kept the car two nights and had to talk with some global support department to cross reference the issue as they couldn't figure it out on their own apparently. Their final diagnosis... (drum roll please)... the high pressure fuel pump!

It was one of those things I kind of expected... well, either that or a bent rod. It looks like we can get a remanufactured CP3 pump for about $500 on up. Pensacola Diesel seems to be the best price/warranty/deal. Any suggestions on how to proceed here? One company or reman model better than another? Is the install fairly straight-forward or should we see if our mechanic would be better suited to tackle the job? Trying to save a few $$ but not burn through a few days trying to do it ourselves.

Thanks!!

Can you get video of this? i do not think it's the CP3. before you spend money on the repair, ask them what they will do if that doesn't fix the issue. will they cover the labor and you just pay for the pump seeings they misdiagnosed it.

 

[User113]

Is the install fairly straight-forward or should we see if our mechanic would be better suited to tackle the job? Trying to save a few $$ but not burn through a few days trying to do it ourselves.

Swapping out a CP3 is pretty straight forward, something your local mechanic or you could do, no need to pay dealership rates for this. But you will need a gear puller to get it done.

The most important thing is cleanliness. Like "operating room" clean. I mean, really, really clean. In other words, pristine. I mean like... well you get the picture. Whenever you take something off, cap, plug or cover the openings. Whenever you tighten a fitting to a secondary fitting, use a backup wrench on the secondary fitting to keep it from turning. Make sure you have a case of brake cleaner spray and clean rags on hand.

Along with the diagnosis, do you know if the dealer performed any actual testing on the CP3 itself once it was suspected, such as pressure, flow, timing, etc.? Hopefully someone will chime in to let us know what should be looked at before condemning the old one, to verify the diagnosis before just swapping parts out, otherwise you're just throwing parts at it and hoping.

Good luck with this.

 

[cerberusiam]

Sheesh, I guess doing it by the side of the road sans a gown and mask is out of the question. Not really, a little over center on cleanliness. A CP-3 has 3 fuel connections, all at the bottom of a run so stuff falls OUT not IN. Two are banjo bolts, the other MAY require a backup wrench but mostly not. Biggest concern is making sure the banjo bolt washers don't get lost. The CP-3 has plugs in the fittings, leave them in until ready to connect, wipe off the truck side with a rag to get the big chunks and hook them up.

Break the drive gear loose, disconnect 3 fuel fittings and one wiring harness, take off the 3 bolts that hold it to the accessory case. Reverse for install. CP-3 is not timed, only synched to the compression strokes. Hard to set it unless you are anal about getting things just so. Easier to just rotate 20 degrees after install if oyu have an strange rattles. Any competent mechanic can handle it.

Hopefully that is the issue, these HPCR fuel system can be a little tricky to diagnose and fix.

 

[Supa]

Thanks guys, your advice is definitely appreciated. The dealer quoted $600 labor and then $1500 for a reman pump or $3k for a new aftermarket one! Definitely not anything easy to swallow... thankfully we have a great affordable mechanic that works with us when we find ourselves in over our heads (and we bring him fresh fish we catch to help sweeten the deal - a bonus perk of living in Hawaii and having a boat!). I'll keep you posted as things progress and (hopefully) the solution is found!

 

[Ozymandias]

You are be able to source a CP3 way cheaper and in good quality.
No need to throw the money out the window.

 

[Supa]

I placed an order for a remanufactured one for around $450... hopefully that does the trick.

 

[AH64ID]

Not that it helps the OP much but there are plenty of 03-04 305 HO's with the 48RE. They aren't rare at all.

Early SO trucks, 235hp, had the 47RE but the 47RE was phased out during MY03.

The V10 also got the 48RE for MY03 and was discontinued by MY04.

 

[Tuesdak]

It looks like we can get a remanufactured CP3 pump for about $500 on up. Pensacola Diesel seems to be the best price/warranty/deal. Any suggestions on how to proceed here? One company or reman model better than another?

I hope you didn't buy the Pensacola Diesel Junk as they can't even get antique 1970's IDI diesel stuff right AKA: read the horrible Google Reviews simply summed up as "What Warranty on this junk?". There is Frugal and there is Cheap with a real fine line due to the high cost of HPCR stuff.