codes and belt noise issue, think AC compressor is seizing.

[BILTIT]

Have had issues with my AC system slowly losing charge, had it charged in spring.

So i recently had my blower motor fail, replaced and all good. 2 weeks later the batteries where shot, replaced and the thing cranked like never before!

Last night my drivers headlight failed (aftermarket HID projectors) and then this morning on my way into work i notice the voltage gauge drop and then belt squeal and the voltage gauge come back up (truck was warm and at 65mph so not grid heaters).

It did it a time or two more in my 15 minute drive to work. Only did it once after work but i wasn't sure if i had the heat on defrost or not.

Got home and cranked AC and on defrost and didn't see higher than 15PSI on AC high side pressure and couldn't hear the compressor cycling at all.

3 codes in, cleared and they are back instantly (P0483, P0700, P2509)

Alternator shop thinks my brushes in alt might be shot.

I am pretty sure my AC compressor is seized but just not sure if that corresponds to these codes?

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[PWong]

Last night my drivers headlight failed (aftermarket HID projectors) and then this morning on my way into work i notice the voltage gauge drop and then belt squeal and the voltage gauge come back up (truck was warm and at 65mph so not grid heaters).

It did it a time or two more in my 15 minute drive to work. Only did it once after work but i wasn't sure if i had the heat on defrost or not.

Got home and cranked AC and on defrost and didn't see higher than 15PSI on AC high side pressure and couldn't hear the compressor cycling at all.

3 codes in, cleared and they are back instantly (P0483, P0700, P2509)



I am pretty sure my AC compressor is seized but just not sure if that corresponds to these codes?

Your AC system was like empty (15psi). The clutch would not engage.
Why you think the comp is seized?
The three codes had nothing to do with the AC, IMO.
There was a sudden large drop in voltage, ECM responded with 2509 and a sudden load increase in alternator, causing belt squeal.
There was a short somewhere.
I would disconnect the fan clutch and try to clear the 700 and 2509.

 

[BILTIT]

I will try that today. Might take the alt in to be checked/rebuilt aswell.

 

[BILTIT]

A little more info.

Checked under hood this morning, looks like i have antifreeze residue all over the place and my overflow tank looks pretty empty. My guess is the belt is just slipping on the alt causing the voltage issues.

I will refill system and check for leak, hopefully its just a water pump.

Voltage drops as i slow down from highway speeds to make a turn and then belt slips/squeals as i accelerate and the alt brings voltage up again (did this on the first 2 of 4 turns on my way to work).

May take the day tomorrow and refill/find leak, rebuild alternator also. Have a few other things around the house to get done anyway.

 

[seafish]

Clearly one of the pullies that the serpentine belt runs around is failing. While it could be ANY of them, the presence of coolant in the engine compartment also points towards failure of the water pump seals and bearings. That being said, it could easily be MORE then just one of them going bad. It is time for you or your mechanic to remove the serpentine belt and check EACH and EVERY pully for excessive shaft play as well as tightness and/or roughness while turning each one by hand. The only pulley that can have some end play is the power steering pump, which for some reason can move in and out about 1/8" and still be consdireded "good". Any radial play on any pulley indicates need for replacment.

All that being said, the AC clutch on these trucks can also go bad and cause issues. The clutch pack IS replaceable without replacing the entire AC compressor.

 

[BILTIT]

Pulled into the shop and looks to be the water pump, changing it tonight.

 

[seafish]

Pulled into the shop and looks to be the water pump, changing it tonight.

Like I said above, be sure to check EACH of the pullies while you have the serp belt off as it may well be more then only the water pump.

Also, it is in fact best to use the oem Cummins water pump made by Concentric as they seem to last MUCH longer then ANY of the aftermarket ones, including even the Gates water pump.

 

[BILTIT]

Replaced the water pump (only 1 yr old) and alternator (just because and i have two new batteries so i wanted to be sure the charging system is A OK). Washed the engine compartment to clean up all the coolant.

All other pulleys turn fine on their own.

With the fan clutch unplugged i get a p0400, 483, 700.

The voltage seems to be staying constant now after the underhood cleanup. Codes all cleared, see how things go over the next few days.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[BILTIT]

Turns out the water pump wasnt the leak, it was the upper rad hose!

Just need to go wash up the engine compartment again and see how the slipping belt is.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Turns out the water pump wasnt the leak, it was the upper rad hose!

Just need to go wash up the engine compartment again and see how the slipping belt is.

What was it touching?

 

[BILTIT]

It touched the pulley/belt below it somehow. I think age just softened the rubber of the hose enough that it sagged and touched the pulley occasionally. The new hose is not even close to the pulley and much stiffer rubber.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Thanks, I'm going to check mine out.